Carb adjust after rebuild

[Buddy in Texarkana]

First time to post. Been lurking ever since I got my first FSJ (88 GW). Nothing really different than anything else I've ever worked on (windows, locks, lights, wheel bearings etc.) until carb problems. It left me walking Friday night, and I decided Sat to rebuild the carb- had to help. Got me a kit for the 2150 and went to work. Got it back together today, and did all the prelim adjustments, put it on and she cranked right up. Man was I proud. I don't have a tach and figured on borrowing one from work tomorrow. It is idled up a little, but I figured it was worth a drive. Everything is fine, except it stalls when starting out from say a stop-sign. You can be real easy, but if you give it any pedal at all, it stalls. It didn't die or anything, just a serious hesitation, then it picks up. Would simply not setting the idle cause this, or did I miss something in the assembly? I shure would appreciate any help ya'll might have, because I don't see anything in the idle adjustments that talk about this. At least it's running, and I haven't driven my 2001 Z-71 200 miles in the last 2months since I got this rig. I love driving it. Just need to get it right, thanks.

[Don S]

..
Buddy;
Welcome to IFSJA !!!

Don't assume a new part or even something thing you rebuilt your self are working correctly … always back-check.
... It sounds like you may have an accelerator pump problem. You may have left out the returnspring or broken the little tip off the orange neoprene/nitrile plug between the accl. pump diaphragm housing and the float bowl when you removed it. This is actually the accl. pump check valve and it is very important to proper operation of the pump.

link>FSJ-MC2150 LINK (http://www.ifsja.org/tech/fuel/2150.shtml)
link>MC-2150 LINK (http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/2150carb/carb01.html)
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/graphics/2150/2150_tag_01.jpgphoto MC-2150

Good Luck.. http://www.boylover.net/ubb/graemlins/cool_shades.gifand CUL.. Don S..

[Al Johnson]

And it could be as simple as needing to adjust the accelerator pump linkage so that it gets a bigger shot of gas when opening the throttle. Usually there is some way of adjusting this, like several positions of a link in holes in a lever, or something like that. Look it over, see how it works, and make an adjustment that gives more travel to the accelerator pump.

Bet you will like the results!

Al

[Buddy in Texarkana]

... It sounds like you may have an accelerator pump problem. .....or broken the little tip off the orange neoprene/nitrile plug between the accl. pump diaphragm housing and the float bowl when you removed it. This is actually the accl. pump check valve and it is very important to proper operation of the pump.

That sounds like a good place to start. I did indeed break the little tip off of the one I took out, but there was another one in the rebuild kit. The replacement had a straight tip, and a slight bump close to the flat part. I couldn't get it in far enough to seat the valve flat against the carb housing. --Any tricks to getting it all the way in?-- It seemed like if you could get at the back and pull it in, it would have seated properly. I'll bet that's the problem. I had forgotten about it being that way. Thanks for your help, If I can just figure how to get it in right, I think I may be getting close.

[Don S]

..
Buddy;
...Wow !!! Sorry but its been a long time (ten years)since I put a kit in an MC-2150. I lent my '81 360 727 PT Waggie to my daughter and her boyfriend's been keepin' it running for a long time. I have known about a lot of carburetors that 'checkball' problems would cause the symptoms you described.
... ... The first thing to do would be sure the engine is getting the accelerator pump fuel. With the engine NOT running pull the Air Cleaner, look for fuel pools on the manifold, a sign of a float problem. Next look down in the carburetor. Is the choke valve wide open when hot? If OK look down in the carburetor and open the throttle 4 times. If a fair amount of fuel squirts out into the barrels then the accelerator and fuel pump are OK...

Good luck and http://www.michiganjeepers.com/forums/images/graemlins/wave.gif and … CUL.. Don S..

[Buddy in Texarkana]

broken the little tip off the orange neoprene/nitrile plug between the accl. pump diaphragm housing and the float bowl That was sort of the problem, now it IS the problem. When it didn't seat the first time, it was leaking back. I took the carb back off and tried to get a pull from the bowl side to get it in. NOW it's broken. I just stuck it in and it appears to function pretty well, but I would like to replace it. Called the parts house and they don't show just the check valve as available by itself. I refuse to spend $45 (rebuild kit) for that one piece. ANy ideas on where I might get one outside a rebuild kit? One other :confused: ??: can I get by without the solenoid that kicks up the idle when the key is on (or rather drops the idle when you kill the engine)? In trying to adjust the idle, I think I fried mine trying to unhook the wire from it. Try to fix it later tonight. Thanks Ya'll, you've been a huge help.

[tgreese]

You can buy a cheaper kit for a 2100 (ca $15) and it'll have that check valve. The expensive part of the 2150 kit is the 2-stage power valve (aka economizer valve).

[tgreese]

Originally posted by Buddy:
... It sounds like you may have an accelerator pump problem. .....or broken the little tip off the orange neoprene/nitrile plug between the accl. pump diaphragm housing and the float bowl when you removed it. This is actually the accl. pump check valve and it is very important to proper operation of the pump.

That sounds like a good place to start. I did indeed break the little tip off of the one I took out, but there was another one in the rebuild kit. The replacement had a straight tip, and a slight bump close to the flat part. I couldn't get it in far enough to seat the valve flat against the carb housing. --Any tricks to getting it all the way in?-- It seemed like if you could get at the back and pull it in, it would have seated properly. I'll bet that's the problem. I had forgotten about it being that way. Thanks for your help, If I can just figure how to get it in right, I think I may be getting close.You have to pull the tip from inside the bowl to seat it. I haven't done a 2150, but on a similar 2100 you put a little blob of vaseline on the tip, and stick the tip through the hole. Then gently pull on the tip and it'll pop into place as the shoulder pulls through the hole.