View Full Version : Electrical Problems!!Help
Teach
11-20-2001, 03:27 AM
Okay, replaced the Alternator, new starter, and starter solenoid. Battery shows good charge and the alternator is showing good output p/the Autozone test cart...But, I'm still showing a fluctating ammeter, both to + and - while idling, but steady when driving. The waggie doesn't want to start after running for a while. However, she does start when cool and runs with no problem. HELP!!
Crazy_Jeepman
11-20-2001, 03:43 AM
What happens when it is hot? Not turn over? Turns over normal but will not fire. If it turns over but will not start when hot I would suspect the coil. If it turns over hard like it has a dead battery I would suspect a faulty starter or timming is out of adjustment. That is all that comes to mind at the moment. Fill us in with a few more details on the problem and maybe someone else has a few good ideas. ;)
Teach
11-20-2001, 04:05 AM
It turns over, sounds like it wants to start, but doesn't have any juice. Looks like I may owe you another beer.
andy d
11-20-2001, 04:29 AM
do you still run points and condenser in that rig? either that or the coil like CJM sez
Teach
11-20-2001, 04:40 AM
No, it's the Prestolite Dist, no points and condensor. Used to have one on my '67 Mustang, and that was fun, gapping the points. I think that in '76 AMC switched to the Prestolite distributor.
reddog
11-20-2001, 05:24 AM
Maybe two different things going on. Sounds like it could be the coil like CJ says but the charging problem sounds like it may be ground or possibly wiring related.
Kerry
Teach
11-20-2001, 05:32 AM
I'm hoping that it's not the ignition module...new coil goes on at lunch....we'll see what happens next.... :confused: :confused: :confused:
I need a multimeter I guess. Any sugestions??
Will I need a battery tester as well??
[ November 20, 2001: Message edited by: Teach ]
reddog
11-20-2001, 06:10 AM
Got a good little digital multimeter at Home Depot for $20. It has put up with quite a bit of punishment so far. You don't need a battery tester. Battery voltage is a good indication of charge. If the voltage shows good but you still have problems getting enough amperage like while starting just take it to your local Autozone (Pep boys Etc Etc) and have them load test it. If the battery is over three years old don't trust it anyway. That doesn't mean you can't use it but just carry good jumper cables and don't go way off into the desert (or woods) by yourself.
Check those grounds!
Kerry
Teach
11-20-2001, 06:59 AM
Well, it's not the coil....new at O'reilly's at lunch. What is my next step? :confused:
killroy
11-20-2001, 08:07 AM
I always go for the easy befor I go for the more expensive. how's your spark? has your timing moved? that little box can get expensive, I'm running the BID system on mine, I've got a Motorcraft waiting for when it goes out. :cool: Good luck.
reddog
11-20-2001, 01:32 PM
So you have checked for spark and get none? That is only after it is warm? First check for 12 volts at the coil. If you have voltage there but still no spark I would suspect the module. I would not have a clue on how to test it but I would suspect there is a way to do so. With the prestolite ignition the module is contained in the distributor correct?? I am only familar with the motorcraft setup which BTW if you were considering converting to the TFI/motorcraft ignition and your prestolite is bad then it would be a good time to convert it. Take the coil back if you can.
Kerry
jeepbob
11-20-2001, 03:54 PM
Here is a test, next time try pumping the gas pedal several times before starting when hot. If it turns over slowly (like a low battery) then suddenly cranks fast and starts, try backing off the timing a little. You will notice a lack of power with the timing a little retarded. If all the above happens it is time for a timing chain.
Teach
11-21-2001, 02:22 AM
Jeepbob, Without backing off, I have noticed that the engine wants to do this at times. however, with a good alternator it fires right up. Could the timing chain still be at fault?
Crazy_Jeepman
11-21-2001, 02:25 AM
Hmmmm, you kinda lead us on the problem and there we are thinking it is a electrical problem. Jeepbob's post hit a nerve when he said pump the GAS, uhhh what if there is no gas. I had a couple vehicles that did the same thing, float bowl in the carb would be empty seemed to evaporate, or siphon back, a weak fuel pump also seemed to come into play in this situation. Something else to chew on anyhow!!! ;)
Teach
11-21-2001, 03:08 AM
Sorry about that Jeepman, just thinking out"loud". Pumping doesn't seem to be the answer. Still have the orignal problem, but the answer may have presented itself...I've got that lovely whine of bearings going out, Time for another Autozone alternator. Thank goodness for "lifetime" warranties. I really wish I could take a road trip to see you guys, I defintely need a tutor!!
Crazy_Jeepman
11-21-2001, 03:52 AM
Well I hope it does it for you. By the way I read somewhere else on the forum, and now you have mentioned it. Did you know you could pump the gas pedal all day long, and not get gas if the fuel bowl in your carb is empty. Pumping the gas pedal only pumps fuel out of the fuel bowl in the carb once that is empty it will not pump any more, nor will it pull fuel from the tank. The fuel pump pumps the fuel to the carb and thats it, the pumping of the pedal only pumps fuel it has. Just in case you were unclear on this, I know there are people that are. Good luck ;)
Marshmountain
11-21-2001, 05:24 AM
My old 77 Chief would not start when it would get hot, or would die. Turned out to be the ignition control module.
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