360 Rebuild questions

[BillyBob535]

I have come up with a couple of question that were not answered by searching here and on the net.

I plan to just freshen up a 78 360. I am going to replace the gaskets with the Fel-Pro set. Included in the kit are a set of head gaskets. If I were to install them, would I need to replace the head bolts? AMC head bolts are quite expensive so if they need to be replaced, I will just skip the head gaskets and just do the rest.

If I have to have the crank drilled for a pilot, I am going to rebuild the short block. I will replace the rings, rod/main/cam bearings, the cam and lifters, the timing chain, the oil pump, and any freeze plugs. In searching I found some info that said something about 2 plugs that are sometimes forgotten. One in the front and one in the rear. What and where are these exactly? Is there any thing else I should do or know about?

I have read that the Summit 8600 cam kit is good (and cheap). I think I will use that with stock heads if I choose to replace the cam. Should I do anything to the heads to accomodate a fresh short block and cam?

Will any stock AMC V8 4bbl intake manifold fit on a 78 360?

The purpose here is to do a low cost freshening on a 360. I have very limited time and funds. I want to avoid machining if possible. I will use good quality parts if I have to replace things but I want to avoid any unnecessary expenses. I will just do the gaskets if the crank is ready for a pilot. If I have to pull the crank, I will go ahead and do the whole short block. Looks like the whole deal will cost $400 in parts plus the drilling and the block prep. If I just do the gaskets, it will be less than $100.

Thanks for the advice.

[heydave]

I am in the process of just "freshening up" my 79 360 also. I was planning on the low cost route also however I have found three expensive words. "While I'm Here"
Rering kit $130
Rebuilt heads $240 pair
oil pump kit $17
timing chain $20
water pump $24
Summit cam & lifters $80
Performer intake $199
Q-jet adapter $15
Q-jet kit $20
valley pan $35
many cans of brake cleaner
All this and I still have to get belts, hoses, plugs, and an electric fuel pump!
I hope my wife doesn't see this list!!
(Oh I bought an engine stand and engine hoist also :D )
Reuse the headbolts, you will need the money elsewhere!

[ August 26, 2002, 09:15 PM: Message edited by: DLyons ]

[heydave]

The stock intake will fit if it is newer than 70 or 71. I forget which!

[BillyBob535]

Ok. Thanks for the info. I hope it's drilled for a pilot as I don't really want to take it apart yet. I just want it to not leak and run for 6 months or so until I can afford to get another vehicle for a daily driver. Once this isn't a DD, I will take it out and do the whole rebuild thing. If I can get away with just gaskets for $100, I will be very pleased.

Thanks.

[garcia]

Hey BillyBob, For those of us who aren't daily mechanics (but like to think we're hep) what exactly are you referring to about having the crank "drilled for a pilot"? Is that a reference to replacing/snaking the rear main seal w/o dropping the crank? I have a fairly stock '89 GW w/ 360 that has several oil leaks, but is an excellent daily driver. Am also considering pulling engine just to regasket everything. Just curious -- Mark

[la mula pescadora]

i also want to rebult the 360 on the 86 wagoneer and then put it on the 76 chero but i dont know if it will fit?

[BillyBob535]

The pilot is the bushing that the crank end of the input shaft from the tranny rides in. It is located in the end of the crankshaft and provides support for the free end of the input shaft.

I have been told that some V8 cranks were not drilled for these if the Jeep came with an automatic transmission.

As for the RMS, I have been told the the AMC motor uses a 2 piece seal. You just need to drop the oil pan, drop the rear most main cap, and possibly loosen but not remove the other main caps (to relieve pressure on the seal). Just take a brass punch and carefully but forcefully tap on one end of the upper portion of the seal and the other end will pop out so you can grab it with pliars. You can then pull it out and put the new one in. Coat the new one with oil so it will slide in easily and watch you don't tear the seal edge. Then put the other half of the seal in the rear main cap and reinstall the main. Torque all of them to spec and put the pan back on.

I did it on my current 258 and it took about an hour. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be. On a YJ the hard part is getting the pan off and out as there is little clearance but on an FSJ it would seem there should be plenty of room to drop the pan.

I did some searching for good parts prices and I found that you can get a complete Fel-Pro gasket set with valley pan for about $100 shipped from Summit. If I have to pull my crank to have it drilled, I am going to replace the cam, cam/rod/main bearings, timing chain, freeze plugs and rings. I found a kit will all decent quality parts for like $200 shipped plus the cam which is like $90 shipped from summit. If I only pay $200 for the motor and $400 for the rebuild I will be just slightly over budget. The machine work will probably kill my budget and then I still have to find an intake, 4bbl, motor mounts, and a pilot. I think I need a second job.

Bob