rear disk brakes

[blt2krl]

Anybody know if the guy selling his kit on ebay is still selling the kits? I have been checking ebay but no new post from him. If any one bought his kit I would like your impressions.

[86_J10]

he's back!

J10 and Wagoneer rear disc barakes (d44 only) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597550669&r=0&t=0)

[J4GRAND]

That looks like a bit of a ripoff. $199 bucks for brackets and rotors! Looks like it would be pretty easy to have the brackets fabricated and acquire the rest of the stuff yourself. IMO, I have had several vehicles with 4 wheel discs and I can say, give me good, old-fashioned drums in the back. Because of the split in braking power (more in the front vs. rear), the slides on the rear calipers tend to become "sticky" after a while and the inner pads wear out faster. I had this problem on an older honda Prelude and when all was said and done it cost $600 for new calipers, rotors, etc.

[scotty]

i have less than $150 in my rear discs,which include a home made bracket,k1500 front rotors,front calipers and pads. the rotors he gives you,BTW,look alot like mine,which cost me all of $24.99 apiece at the 'Zone.

also,it looks like his bracket goes on the outside of the retaining plate,which will mean haveing the bearings,seal,and collar pressed on and off. so add that cost(plus the costs of new bearings,seals since it would be silly NOT to replace them if theyre off anyway.

if im wrong on that count,and his bracket bolts between the retaining palte and axletube,then its very important that his bracket is the same thickness as the stock drum backing plate. if its different the bearings will not be properly preloaded,and side to side axle movement can occur,which will destroy your bearings quickly.

my bracket is welded to the axlehousing,and cost me all of about $20 to make both. it really wasnt that hard,i swear. smile.gif

IMO,rear discs are well worth having.they are "self cleaning" in mud.i got real tired of mud eating up brake shoes,and constantly having to adjust and replace rear brakes.

also,i cant imagine why his kit wont work withthe amc 20. i mocked mine up on an amc 20 before i put it on a 44,and found the only difference was that the 44 housing was very slightly larger,which was easily remedied with another few minuts withthe grinder. the axle sticks out the same amount,and my rotor slides neatly over both axleshafts.

i also thot it ws funny that a brake system "designed" for full size jeeps is pictured on a scout 5 lug axle.

id somewhat question the effectiveness of it-maybe his buddy made them for his scout,and hes trying to make a buck by expanding the market?how well tested are his brakes on actual FSJs? id send him some email and ask him alotta questions before id give him my $200.

some other stuff to think about,anyway...

[blt2krl]

He guys thanks for the input. All I really want are the brackets. I know I can get the rotors cheaper at the local parts store. I will e-mail him and ask some questions about the brackets. Hey Scotty I don't supose you would fab me up some brackets and a parts list for a small fee? I would sure like to have a tested full-size version.

[Veepster]

what are you using for proportioning valve?...I am quite sure the stock one needs to be changed, or a manual valve installed somewhere..

[blt2krl]

I was thinking about a adjustable Wilwood.

[64Trvlr]

The Wilwood should do the trick just fine.
:cool:

[blt2krl]

hey scotty I'm a little confused here. when your talking about the retaining plate are you talking about the disk sheild? the brackets are made of heavy 3/8 steel plate. he wants 85 smackers for the brackets.

[scotty]

disk shield? when you unbolt your axle and slide it out,the little plate that holds it all in is what i ws refering too.if his brackets are made of 3/8 plates,the they defianely have to be between the axleshaft flange and the the little plate that holds the axle in.soooo-add cost of new bearings,seals,and remove,install. also,if he does not include some sort of "preload shim" to go between the axlehousing and the retaining plate,then you will need to cut down your drum brake backing plate to keep the axle from walking back and forth,and keep the bearings properly preloaded.

i am currently using my stock proportioning valve,and it seems to be workig fine. i dont kow if maybe the vw turning brake inline adds some "resistance",or ifs simply the fact that 38 inch tires are harder to lock up smile.gif

ok,heres a rundown of my setup: stock front rotors for "heavy duty chassis" 1991 k1500 4wd pickup($24.99 each). front calipers($13.99 each) and pads($8.99 set) from a 77 4wd 1/2 ton chebby. i am also using using front 77 chebby brake hoses,since they are very long. you could use just about any hose,tho. im using the long ones cause i have a line ran from the turning brake to each rear wheel,then the rubber hose down to the caliper,much like the front. if your using the stock rubber hose going to the axle,you could use shorter hoses,or even hard plumb em in,but i wouldnt do that,cause it will be a PITA to change pads or do maintenance.

ok my bracket is also 3/8 steel,and welded directly to the axletube about 1/2 inch back from the flange where the axle bolts in. i just put it where the rotor was centered with a new set of pads and so happens a couple of nuts that were laying around were the right size for spacers. 2 of the bolts that retain the axle run thru the bracket,and thus had to be about 3/4 inch longer. sounds kinda complex,but the hardest part was gettig the holes for the calipers in EXACTLY the right spot so theyd be straight,not bound up,and the caliper would "float" the way its spossed to.

the rotor slides over the axle flange just like it would on a FWD car hub. other conversions ive seen involve mouting a front rotor to the rear of the axleshaft flange,but that involves funky studs and machining a hole to access the axle retaining bolts. the k1500 rotor is real simple. just slide it off.

other than that, i simply cut down my drum brake backing plates to the same shape/size as that axleshaft retaining plate,so it properly spaces the axleshaft,but is not in the way,and doenst look stupid :rolleyes:

i dont have it down to a science exactly where the holes need to be,it was just trial and error in making the first ones,plu the plate on,clamped the caliper to it in the right spot with vicegrips,drilled the holes.

i talked the guy into cutting out the rough shape with a plasma torch,so all i had to do was smooth it all out.

if i had more time on my hands,id be happy to make ya set and just charge ya for the metal

but,i barely have enuff time to work on my own rig(might have some more if i didnt spend so much time on the puter ;) )

i would be happy to send ya a copy of the bracket,and some pics of it on my axle,if you want to have it made,and drill your own holes. like i said,some trial and error gettin em in just the right spot,but not a big deal.

hopefully will have some pics online soon, as soon as dr barry has time to scan em for me(sorry,i dont have a scanner and really am computer stupid-much harder to wrench on them than on jeeps )

they definately work. come wheelin with me,and ill show ya how i can use the turning brake and rear discs only to hold myself right smack in the middle of a hill,and be able to start forward progress from a stop in the middle of the hill. really cool,clutch left foot,throttle right foot,brake right hand-now try that with drum brakes and a conventional locker :D no more heel-toe-ing it on a hill!

it also looks like he puts the calipers on top of the discs,which is not a great idea,IMO. my first attempt had them this way,and it was real tough to get them bled. i now have them positioned more like the front,with the bleeder pointing straihg up.

[blt2krl]

Hey scotty I got a little more info. he says that for the dana axles they supply a circular spacer to make up for the missing thickness of the drum plate backing plate. this leave the axle end play unaffected. your thought please.

[scotty]

still sounds like a PITA to have to remove wheel bearings and seals to install his brackets on the axleshaft. other than that, it should work just fine,id think. you might ask him for sure if the bracket then stays permantly behind the axle retaining plate,and at exactly what position do the calipers end up in?

the rotors he supplies must be very thin- in order for me to use a flat mounting plate with the rotors im using i had to space the bracket back from the flange. i have trouble imagining a rotor thin enuff to be able to bolt the bracket in front of the flange like his does.does he use a standard set of pads?

did ya ever ask him exctly why they wont work on the amc 20? as i mentioned,my setup will work just fie on either...