Still dealing with a stalling issue***update**

[shadowfax101]

At first I thought it was the float causing the engine to flood out. Changed that out. Ran good for a few days. Happened again, and I found a suspect plug wire, changed them out and worked find for about 2 days. I was working on it today. I changed out some more plug wires and installed a vacume gauge. It was running real good, I was pulling 22 lbs while driving and about 19lbs at idle of vacume. After letting it run a little while to recharge the battery it just goes dead. No strange noise, just dead. It will not start back up. Could this be a brain box???

Maybe this is why it was only 11.99 from autozone. What ever it is it is going to be an intermitten problem and it seems to deal with spark. so coil, dist, and brain box.

Coil is new and dist cap is new. Brain box is about 8 months old. I know it needs a new distr. but I don't think that is the problem.

Any ideas....or should I just change out the brian box (ignition mod.)

[ June 09, 2002, 03:35 PM: Message edited by: shadowfax101 ]

[coolram]

Does it crank after it sits for awhile to cool?If so probably the ignition module or t maybe the pickup coil in the dist.

[64Trvlr]

Yup, that sounds like the module is going away or is gone completely.
:cool:

[shadowfax101]

I had the control Module tested at autozone and it tested ok. Does this really mean that it is good? I turned the key to the on position and I could not get any more than .66 volts at the coil. I think I was testing it correctly. I put the volt meter on one top and grounded the other side.66 I touched both the leads to ground and .66. Could this be my problem. I did not think that coils could be intermitten.

Could it be the starter soleniod?

[ June 09, 2002, 03:36 PM: Message edited by: shadowfax101 ]

[shadowfax101]

I have let it cool down and still nothing. It did the exact same thing earlier this week.

[AzFrank aka Desertson]

I just went through this problem myself. I thought it was the carb too. WRONG! I thought it was my ignition. WRONG! After 3mo of frustration the light went on in the ol' noodle, Ahh the ingnition modual. Intermitent stalling, wont start back up right away etc. Swapped it out and viola!
1)Turn ignition "on"
unplug the 2-wire connector at modual and connect voltmeter between "F-2" coming from the wire harness and ground (F-2 will be the RED wire)
If voltmeter indicates battery voltage withih 0.2volts replace control unit.

2)Reconnect the 2 wire plug at control unit.
Then disconnect the 4-wire plug.
Connect ammeter between "C-1" teminal of modual (black wire) and ground. ammeter should read 1amp(+or-0.1)
If it reads higher or lower ....replace modual.

Good Luck, The new modual cost me $16.89 at AutoZone. ;)

[shadowfax101]

I just checked what you said to check, and I did the first one(red wire) it sparked at first and I got zero for a reading on volts. I did no 2(black wire) got 0 for amps. I did this check with the switch on. Is there anything else I need to do, did I do it right.

Since it sparked I thought I should have some reading???

[Ralph]

Please, take good advice and replace th ignition module. It should cost you like $15 at the 'Zone and save you many headaches trying to figure out what ELSE could be the problem. An intermitten failure of the ignition module is not easy to detect because it may or may not self-correct immediately after the stalling.

[64Trvlr]

Originally posted by Ralph:
Please, take good advice and replace the ignition module. I agree, just go get one put it in, problem solved.
:cool:

[T-Bone]

I had the same problems (dies without warning-let it cool down and starts) and have followed the same routes. It turned out to be my P/U in the distributor. I found it cheaper to get a reman dizzy, (part + my labor+ beer= too much).
I did change the the ignition module before I changed the dizzy as it causes the same activity, never hurts to get a new one. Test and keep the old one in the truck. :D

[T-Bone]

that was just my experience, Check which is cheaper (module or P/U) and do it, then the other.
One will fix it!

[AzFrank aka Desertson]

Hey shadowfax101
Yes you tested it correctly, with the 0 amp reading on the black wire,your modual is bad. It should have read 1 amp if good. Anything higer or lower, its bad.
Now about the old one....toss it. Buy two new ones....Do not rely on the old one as a back up.
I did last Friday and ended up going nowhere fast.
Sorry it took so long to post back.(I was busy working on my Jeep)