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Ky rambler
01-11-2007, 05:03 PM
Looking at a late 80's GW - owner acquired through a trade and doesn't know what's in it aside from the 360 and isn't sure of the year either - perhaps 87. What is the most probable drivetrain components(tranny/tcase/axles). New to FSJ's, so what are the bad spots to watch out for - rust, weak frames, bad drivetrain combos, etc? I did not find cliff notes of all things FSJ when I used the search function.

Any VIN decoders I can get so I can decipher it once I go look it over?

I want this for a trail rig not DD, but I require my rigs to be roadworthy to drive to and hopefully home from the trail. If I get a FSJ, I'll have lots of other questions to build it up.
Any and all info is appreciated.
THanks

KaiserMan
01-11-2007, 05:14 PM
Vin decoder. 1981-88
http://www.ifsja.org/tech/figures/vin81-88.html

Vin decoder, 1989-91
http://www.ifsja.org/tech/figures/vin89-92.html

If it's an 87 it will have the 360 2bbl V8, TF727 3 speed auto and a NP 229 transfer case. Dana 44's front and rear with a gear ratio of either 2.73:1 or 3.31:1, depending on if it was ordered with the towing package or not.

scotty
01-11-2007, 05:26 PM
well said,mr kaiserman. a couple of things that come to mind to watch out for: biggest one is frame along the gas tank,and the "coffin" that holds the tank in place. both of these tend to trap mud,salt,water,and general funk and tend to rust/rot out quickly. the rest of the frame holds up pretty well,unless its been driven here in ohio,where we mix alittle bit of snow with our salt and everything rusts into a pile in just a few years ;)

the other thing that comes to mind is the vaccum operated 229 transfer case. they are prone to not working from aging dry rotted,cracked and broken hoses,and have a magic silicone filled viscous coupleing inside for full time 4x. you can check the fluid and make sure its not silvery,indicating that the coupleing has split and the magic ooze is staring to leak out.

there may be some other little things that others can point out,but those are the big ones that come to mind.

goldhammer
01-11-2007, 06:49 PM
A fat wallet is a nice option to have:D Rear mains tend to spit oil on the driveway, but a semi-easy fix. Once you get one, look out, others tend to follow you home and not leave.:thumbsup: (this is a good thing)

Ky rambler
01-11-2007, 07:11 PM
Nice fat wallet, huh? I don't have one of those, I'll check into getting one though :D .

So it seems that maybe these 229 t cases aren't all that great. And please correct me if my info is incorrect. GW's of this time (late 80's) are considered narrow track? They are also driver's side drop front and centered rear? And bolt pattern is not 5 on 5.5 but 6 on something.

I have a 83 CJ7 and I was hoping I might have been able to use a 2nd set of wheels from it on the GW. I'm kind of wanting to try this long wheelbase thing for a family wheeler and get some of the benefits of the long wheelbase like having doubler t-cases and still have room for a driveshaft. THe worst part I see on the GW is the rear overhang. I'm afraid I'll tear the rear completely off.

KaiserMan
01-11-2007, 07:18 PM
The NP229 is actually a decent case. Great for on the road driving. They can take some abuse off road.

All Wagoneer and Grand Wagoneers are narrow-tracs. 80-91 will have a drivers drop front and a centered rear.

The wheel bolt pattern is 6 on 5.5". GM 1/2 ton 4x4 rims (pre 1988) will fit fine. In fact, Jeep used GM rims in the mid 70's.

bigun
01-11-2007, 07:49 PM
If you ae planing on making it a family wheeler you can always sawzall off the back. There are any number of chop tops here that could show you the way. I think there was even a guy over seas who cut off the back sheet metal and moved it foward. Does anybody remember it?

johnwaynejeep2
01-11-2007, 08:08 PM
The worst part I see on the GW is the rear overhang. I'm afraid I'll tear the rear completely off.

All my wagoneers had the receiver hitch witch will shield the body and rear bumper and also makes a nice trenching tool too. I had reservations about the rear myself, I still plan on cutting some of the rear fender out; but truth be told it's never been a problem. The engine is torky enough to drag that thing over or through whatever it might get hung on. 360's are known for making gobs of torque :D .

Good wheeling

shadowjeep
01-12-2007, 01:41 PM
GW's are good for off road use in these hills.:D i have an 87 and i didnt have to do too much to it to get ready for play in the mud and on trails. also, what size tires do you plan on using?

Ky rambler
01-12-2007, 05:54 PM
what size tires do you plan on using?

Oh, I could say I'm dreaming of 36 - 38's but I was realistically planning on the 33-35's to give myself an improved breakover .

I am inclined to not chop the back off so it can still be street legal. I might buggify(is that a word?) my CJ7 if I can use the GW for a family wheeler/tow rig and use the CJ when I go hardcore trips without the family.

All a pipe dream until I go to see this GW if its worth the money.

Tad
01-12-2007, 08:04 PM
...I could say I'm dreaming of 36 - 38's but I was realistically planning on the 33-35's to give myself an improved breakover...
You are going to trim back there eventually for even 33's most likely.
It's just a NT rear fender opening size issue that we were all blessed with.
Light trimming is simple fab work.
Deep trimming can get a bit complex (not a deal killer).
If you fly through that link in my sig (the Wag one) someplace about page 4 or so you can get a good idea of what I took out and replaced.
Not saying you should do that, I had other motives, but there are some decent pic's of what's (or was) inside there.