Holley Pro-Jection Problem

[gwinn]

This POS unit hasn't worked right since I had it installed by the POS mechanic at his POS garage. :mad: I don't want to bring it back to him because he's a moron and it took him over a month to screw it up to this point! :mad:
I've installed a 0-30 fuel pressure gauge between the fuel filter and the throttle-body. When I turn the key the pressure pegs the guage maxed and no fuel exits the injectors. When I turn the key off, it stays pegged. The injectors drip here and there. I think it is a mechanical problem with the regulator. We tried to back the screw out of the regulator to reduce pressure, now to the point that one more turn and it's coming out. From what I understand the regulator is supposed to keep the pressure at 12 to 18 #/sq". Backing the screw out should drop it to the lowest pressure, right? It still pegs the gauge. Anyone know this pro-jection well enough to talk me through this?

[jode]

I have a Pro-jection problem too....no Pro-jection smile.gif

Seriously though, I wish I knew anything about it...I feel for you bro

[SpruceMoose]

you DO have a fuel return line hooked up, dont you? if it reads more than 10 psi on the return line something is wrong. either its plugged up, or just too small in diameter. it MUST read below 10 psi for the system to work properly. mine reads 3 psi when running at idle. it should read lower as the rpms go up. as for the pressure side, about 13 psi is right on the money for this installation. that should give you good positions on the adjustments on the brain box.

btw, regardless of what the directions say, the stock fuel return line IS big enough, as-is. thats what i'm using.

also btw, which projection are you using? analog or digital? closed-loop option? 2bbl? 4bbl?

the more info the better.

sm.

[gwinn]

redface.gif redface.gif I couldn't decide whether to delete this post and act like I never wrote it, or just say, I'm stupid! redface.gif redface.gif I'M STUPID! I made a small error when installing my new fuel lines. I have them right now, so I'm back to it running! Just real crappy. The mechanic is still a moron though! smile.gif

[gsmikie]

i have the video if it will help i use to have 3 of these i havent had one for a couple of years

[Joe Guilbeau]

Don't know if you have the Holley Digital or Analog, but here is how to set up an Analog 502-Series.

These units need to have the Throttle Position Sensor set up right.

They have to have power and grounding right.

They really need relays to run the Fuel Pump.

Your throttle body should have an "idle enrichment" screw on the front drivers side of the throttle body, a long Number 2 flat-blade screwdriver is what makes my unit easy to adjust.

Turn that screw until the throttle plates close completely.

Now, turn the ignition key to the "On" position so that the Throttle Position Sensor is getting the 5 Vdc from the ECU (this is the voltage on my Analog System).

I set my voltage to be 0.60Vdc, which is a good starting point, depending on your cam and other mods to the engine, yours might differ slightly.

Set all the potentiometers on the Electronic Control Box to their center positions.

Now, take that "Idle Enrichment" screw and open the throttle plates until you can start the engine.

Congradulate yourself, most of the time it take adjustment to the fuel pressure and the TPS and the idle mixture to get her running, now let her warm up.

When she warms up, you should note that the Choke or Fast Idle Solenoid has retracted, when the vehilce gets cold again, you can adjust the screw until the engine will warm up and not stumble and die.

Now, blip the throttle and curse, while she dies. No problem, just adjust that Fuel Regulator to about 13 lbs and blip the throttle.

Now curse while black smoke exits the tailpipe.

No problem, loosen that TPS and adjust until she runs, on my analog system it is a trial and error, with three engine installs each TPS had to be set to a different initial setting.

You are probably spot on, if the Idle Potentiometer can be turned clockwise to make the engine idle faster, and counter clockwise to make the engine idle slower.

By the way, if the Throttle Position Sensor gets damp, it can be pretty leaky, so with an Ohm-meter you can unplug the connector to it, and measure the resistance while transitioning from closed throttle plates to fully open throttle plates. When she gets wet, there will be no linear transitions, as the TPS is run through its range.

This Throttle Position Sensor has to get 5Vdc from the Electronic Control Unit to work properly (On my Analog System).

The voltage will range from about 0.60Vdc with the throttle plate fully closed, to almost 5Vdc with the plates fully open, make sure that the Voltage that the Throttle Positioner is sending to the ECU to tell it how much to pulse the injectors is linear throughout the entire movement of the Throttle Plates, check it with the Key On, from closed plates to fully open plates and back down to closed plates.

Now, just look at the exhaust and adjust the Throttle Positioner and the Fuel Pressure until you do not see any smoke from the tailpipe (for my Analog system), re-adjust the idle screw in the front for a smooth idle.

If you can get this far, then the rest of the set up should go smoothly.

Blip the throttle and it should run clean.

I have a relay feeding both my fuel pumps and the voltage to the ECU.

Holleys are really pretty simple (or very basic), and the Oxygen Sensor is a pretty good idea.

I am forever tinkering with those pesky potentiometers to rich/lean the combustion, as I do not have an Oxygen Sensor.

The Throttle Position Sensor is critical in these Holleys, it all starts there.

Joe