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View Full Version : 14Bolt swap/ Spring inboard


onesunJ10
12-03-2006, 09:31 PM
Ok, so today i finished an install of a SRW 14 Bolt into my J10. I inboarded the rear springs and have everything all hooked up as of now. However i ran into one problem...

My 1350 joint will not fit properly into the pinion yoke. The yoke leaves ~ 1/16" gap between the cap retainer and the cap. the joint fits in just fine in terms of cap size but i can move it side to side. Anybody else run into this problem? I heard somewhere that it could be a spicer or different manf. joint. What's the deal????

I'll post some pics soon as i upload.

Elliott
12-03-2006, 10:16 PM
Maybe you got lucky and have a 1410 yoke. If this is accurate: The 1410 u-joint is 4 3/8" wide and the 1350 u-joint is 3 5/8" wide.

Edit*** If it's only 1/16" your yoke is probably stretched.

onesunJ10
12-03-2006, 11:20 PM
i wish it were a 1410. Ahhh, i guess you are right though, considering there is at most 1/8th difference between the yoke and the joint...

hmmm, the question is now what? I did this on a time and money budget so i'm not sure where to go from here. I was planning on running it as is but a friend of mine, whom i trust, said not to. so...?

Brad W.
12-04-2006, 12:49 PM
i'd just order a new yoke. any driveshaft place or gear supplier can get them. Try randy's ring and pinion, high-angle drivelines, and similar places.

a 14-bolt 1350 yoke is usually in the neighborhood of $60. Now is also a good time to upgrade to u-bolt style instead of strap style yokes.

onesunJ10
12-04-2006, 10:46 PM
So here are some pics of the install. I'll get the 37" tires mounted later this week and then i can post pics of ride height and what not.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/onesun06/Web14BSwap-1.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/onesun06/Web14BSwapFrontHangar.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/onesun06/Web14BSwapShaved14b.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/onesun06/Web14BSwapShaved14b2.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/onesun06/Web14BSwapSpringson.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/onesun06/Web14BSwapShackle.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/onesun06/Web14BSwapFrontHangarfinished.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/onesun06/Web14BSwapFinished.jpg

Cecil14
12-04-2006, 11:00 PM
Dude...this is exactly what I've been lookin for. Will make mounting my 404s WAY easier!! Thanks for the pics.


aa

BRUTUS
12-05-2006, 12:37 AM
i'd just order a new yoke. any driveshaft place or gear supplier can get them. Try randy's ring and pinion, high-angle drivelines, and similar places.

a 14-bolt 1350 yoke is usually in the neighborhood of $60. Now is also a good time to upgrade to u-bolt style instead of strap style yokes.

Now would be a good time to upgrade to 1410. I think Jesse at High angle got a new shipment in a couple of weeks ago for the 1410 yokes... $99 for the yoke on the 14 bolt and $79 extra if you want a new slipshaft 1410 yoke for the driveshaft... 1-3/8 or 1-1/2 OD spline.

Are you gonna post other pictures of your rig?

onesunJ10
12-05-2006, 01:08 AM
yea, i'll post up more pix probably wed.. Right now the truck is on 30" rollers and i wanted to wait till i could mount my 37"s. I'd like to just go ahead with the 1410 but i really spent just about all the money I can. I really just need to get it driving as soon as i can. Time is also a prob, considering i am living in the dorm rooms at my school. But, i'll let it be known how i go about this :thumbsup: .

Bama Burden
12-05-2006, 06:38 AM
, considering i am living in the dorm rooms at my school.

are you doing this in the parking lot of your dorm?

if so, :thumbsup:

mudslider
12-05-2006, 06:46 AM
are you doing this in the parking lot of your dorm?

if so, :thumbsup:

that would for sure be true fsj style :D

onesunJ10
12-05-2006, 02:02 PM
haha, i got lucky and a buddy with a driveway helped me out. I'll probably end up swapping the pinion yoke in the lot though :D .

BRUTUS
12-05-2006, 03:34 PM
haha, i got lucky and a buddy with a driveway helped me out. I'll probably end up swapping the pinion yoke in the lot though :D .

Are you replacing the pinion crushwasher at the same time?

LaJ10
12-07-2006, 05:20 PM
The way you have the rear mount is just what I've been looking for.What was used?Can you give specifics.I've been looking at the front of older cheby 4x4 for parts and they have been what I could use but yours looks great.

onesunJ10
12-07-2006, 06:02 PM
Here are a few more pix. I'll got some good 3/4 shots as soon as i got the driveshaft in.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/onesun06/Web14Bw_37s.jpg
I think that puddle is just brake fluid left from bleeding the brakes...hope they are not leaking.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/onesun06/Web14BCloseup.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/onesun06/Web14BRear3_4.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/onesun06/Web14BRear3_42.jpg

onesunJ10
12-07-2006, 06:06 PM
The way you have the rear mount is just what I've been looking for.What was used?Can you give specifics.I've been looking at the front of older cheby 4x4 for parts and they have been what I could use but yours looks great.

I have all the specs written down. I have class till 9, then i can post up the measurements and whatnot.

And as far as replacing the crush washer, i don't think i am going to. A buddy of mine has run a 14B for a couple years and we are going to take the whole pinion out and swap a new 1350 U Bolt yoke onto it. I'll see though.

BRUTUS
12-07-2006, 06:39 PM
Nice Truck! Did you weld in a receiver hitch into the rear crossmember without a bumper? That is pretty cool!

onesunJ10
12-07-2006, 10:13 PM
Thanks Brutus. It's actually a pintle hook. I've seen a few mud guys do it and it seemed like a good idea. The hook is rated for 15,000 lbs and once i finish bracing the back side of the cross member i should be able to pull as hard as i want with it. My first J10 had a huge rear bumper and i hated getting it caught on stuff. Way better departure angle this way.:D

BRUTUS
12-07-2006, 11:37 PM
I thought you had the pintle hook in a 2" receiver... it is just welded to the crossmember? That is awesome!

onesunJ10
12-07-2006, 11:42 PM
It is mounted with some grade 8 1/2" Bolts... It's not done yet but to keep the frame from ever warping during a potential hard pull, i am goin to inset a 1/4" piece of steel that runs the length and width of the x-member. Should make for a really strong set up. Thanks for liking my idea:thumbsup:

onesunJ10
12-09-2006, 12:56 AM
The way you have the rear mount is just what I've been looking for.What was used?Can you give specifics.I've been looking at the front of older cheby 4x4 for parts and they have been what I could use but yours looks great.
Hopefully I didn't mistake this as reference to the pintle hook...but either way i'll post the parts for the spring inboard.

Ok so here is a parts list...

1 foot 2" x .120 DOM for the bushing sleeves inset in the frame (1.75 ID)
1 foot of 3.5" x .210 wall Square tube for spring hangers
3 feet of 3/8" x 1.5" flat bar for the shackles
1 foot of 1/4" x 3.0" flat bar used to box the frame
(2) 3"x 1.75" spring bushings...9/16" bolt
U bolts, spring plates and perches from a Dodge Dana 70

Think that's it in terms of parts i had to fabricate/ modify.

Let me know if you want me to post prices too.

I also just purchased a u bolt style 1350 pinion yoke from WFOconcepts.com. They are on sale this month, just fyi.

ALSO...the rear pintle hook i picked up at a trailer/hitch place a year or so ago (I think earlier i said it was rated at 15000 lbs, pretty sure that's correct)... it came with all the hardware and was pretty easy to install. The rear of the frame has a couple holes in it already... i welded the holes closed and drilled new ones...easy.

LaJ10
12-09-2006, 08:38 AM
No mistaking thats what I was looking for.Thanks it should help alot.

bigun
12-09-2006, 07:59 PM
Great write up and pics, this is one of the things we have planned for Crom this winter!



Nice Truck! Did you weld in a receiver hitch into the rear crossmember without a bumper? That is pretty cool!
Hmm I can tell you never looked at the back of Crom did you?

1x1_Speed_Craig
12-26-2006, 01:09 PM
onesunJ10 - Are your rear springs parallel to one another? I'm inboarding the springs on a CJ-10a tug (frame is a shortened FSJ frame), and found that the distance between the frame rails is different in front than it is in the rear. My spring hangers will be located in the "arch" of the frame (further back than yours), and I'll probably outboard the shackle hangers slightly. I'm just curious if you found this with yours, and just have the springs slightly out of parallel.

Craig

8379qtj10
12-26-2006, 05:36 PM
Are those Jeep or Chevy springs???

ob1jeeper
12-26-2006, 08:44 PM
It is mounted with some grade 8 1/2" Bolts... It's not done yet but to keep the frame from ever warping during a potential hard pull, i am goin to inset a 1/4" piece of steel that runs the length and width of the x-member. Should make for a really strong set up. Thanks for liking my idea:thumbsup:
Nice workmanship...

FWIW: if you make the 1/4" thick strip stock you've aluded to long enough that the center can be bolted to your pintle, then the ends folded forward at an approx 45 degrees to the side rails, then the ends bent to fit inside, and bolted into the side rails, it will be SIGNIFICANTLY stronger in a pull than a flat piece running straight across the rear C/mbr...

Creates a "V" shaped tensile member... Look at the MB's, M38's or late 60's/early 70's CJ's to get a better Idea of what I'm referring to... Was done for the military spec'd rigs that got Pintle hooks standard, and carried over into commercial utilities ...;)

BRUTUS
12-27-2006, 01:39 AM
Hmm I can tell you never looked at the back of Crom did you?

I did too! I kept looking at the propane tank thinking of how many burgers I could cook with that tank! :D