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View Full Version : J-Truck hates mud...


grand_wag_85
11-25-2006, 09:24 PM
As of late it seems that whenever I take the J10 thru anything even remotely slick I end up getting stuck, if it resembles mud forget about it. The truck's sporting some 235 at's which I think is the root of the problem but if I were to throw some bigger meatier tires on would that help me out here? What's the largest I can go on stock rims w/o rubbing? Tires never really seem to make a major difference in the XJ, the same went for my old GW but I've never owned a pickup before so I dunno, thought maybe I could get some advice from you guys.

I do kno a couple of things that would make it work would be lockers and/or a winch but I don't have the cash right now:rolleyes:

Cecil14
11-25-2006, 11:00 PM
Tires are the biggest/most important factor in ANY 4x4, period. The key isn't size though, it's type. You're not going anywhere if you can't get it to the ground.

I ran 31x10.50s on my J-10 no problem. Biggest issue there is gearin, 80's trucks just suck in the factory gearin department. Not sure but I think you will probably be fine on factory rims. May need to adjust the steering stops but should be it.


aa

J10Mike
11-26-2006, 12:59 AM
Like Cecil said...size doesn't matter on this issue. While most A/Ts work for a variety of onroad (snow) and offroad conditions, MUD is not one of them.
I have had one of the best of A/Ts available...the BFG A/T. It's a great all around tread design. Yet, in the mud, they turn into slicks. Although I never got stuck in the mud with them, I came dang near close to getting stuck.
If you are going to play in the mud on a consistent basis, you may want to look into a good M/T tire that is self cleaning.
Of course, with M/Ts, you lose the decent onroad characteristics that you may be used to.
It's not a two way steet on this tire issue. It's one or the other. But, you can't have both...in one tire.

AlsChopShop
11-26-2006, 02:16 AM
you can fit 33x12.50x15 stock. but its all about tread type.

Al

Elliott
11-26-2006, 07:11 AM
The cheapest thing you can do that will benefit the most is to put a LockRite/Aussie Locker in the rear axle and then use the skinny pedal.

bigun
11-26-2006, 08:10 AM
Some people have trouble driving M/T on the hyway as they tend to be loud, but since Crom doesn't have a radio the exhaust provides the bass, the tires mid range and the wind the treable! With that who needs a radio? They do tend to wear faster if you use them alot on the hyway.

grand_wag_85
11-26-2006, 08:24 AM
I just use the J10 arround the farm so the only pavement it'll ever see is the stretch in front of the house.

So what's a decent mud tire that's cheap? Coopers, Dunlops? It's almost time for Interco's blem sale, 31x10.5 swampers:cool: I think I'll stop by some of the tire shops in town and see what they got as far as used tires go, unfortunately the goal here is lowest cost.

a440plus6®
11-26-2006, 09:22 AM
Biggest issue there is gearin, 80's trucks just suck in the factory gearin department. Not sure but I think you will probably be fine on factory rims. May need to adjust the steering stops but should be it.aa
I'm a newbie with an 85 J10.....which gearing are you talkin about? Differential??

bigun
11-26-2006, 10:03 AM
I have heard good things about these folks
http://high-tec-retreading.com/DesktopDefault.aspx

elbastardo
11-26-2006, 05:47 PM
If its just a farm truck, retreads would probably be a good cheap way to go. Also for a locker on a budget theres always the lincoln locker. To be a real farm truck, technically by farm law:rolleyes: your required to run steelies, and some skinny tall buckshots maby in the 33" range :D.

grand_wag_85
11-26-2006, 06:40 PM
If its just a farm truck, retreads would probably be a good cheap way to go. Also for a locker on a budget theres always the lincoln locker. To be a real farm truck, technically by farm law:rolleyes: your required to run steelies, and some skinny tall buckshots maby in the 33" range :D.
LOL I know a few like that arround here :D

J10Mike
11-26-2006, 10:27 PM
I'm a newbie with an 85 J10.....which gearing are you talkin about? Differential??
Ya... That's what Cecil was talking about. The differential gearing in the 80 thru 91 FSJs. 2.73s or optional 3.31s for towing package.

a440plus6®
11-27-2006, 05:28 AM
Thanks, I was just wondering....I'll have to check mine. Guy I bought it from said it had 4.10s in it. Not on the road yet so don't have the "feeel in the pants" yet.

grand_wag_85
11-27-2006, 05:40 AM
One way to check is by raising one end and spinning the tire on one side while noting the turns that the drive shaft makes. If just a little bit more than 4, you have 4.10's, if not get u'r money back :p

Welcome Aboard!

grand_wag_85
11-27-2006, 05:40 AM
Almost forgot, make sure you do it by hand, wouldn't want ya gettin hurt.

FSJeep80
11-27-2006, 01:51 PM
Tires are a big part of it but getting the diffs,frame,transfer case etc. up and out of the mud helps a lot too. That`s where taller tires come in. Depends how deep the mud is too. We`re running practically bald 35" MTs on our J10 truggy and we`ve been through thick gooey mud up to the rock rails (29") without getting stuck. That`s with only 4" of lift. Of course we`ve got a welded diff in the rear too,which you wouldn`t want to run on the street. A Detroit EzLocker might be worth looking into. They`re not ideal but they`re a lot better than nothing. If you`re looking for a really great mud tire that`s suprisingly quiet on the street check out Interco Truxxus MTs. My buddy has them on his XJ and they`re actually quieter than the ATs he had on it before. FSJeep80

grand_wag_85
11-27-2006, 05:46 PM
The deepest I've had the J10 stuck mud-wise was about up to the bottom of the rims and most of the time it's barely even any mud, it's really sad.

Found some 31x10.5 mt's and I will give them a shot, they don't all match but are larger and meatier than what I got now.

BRUTUS
11-27-2006, 06:17 PM
One way to check is by raising one end and spinning the tire on one side while noting the turns that the drive shaft makes. If just a little bit more than 4, you have 4.10's, if not get u'r money back

I have never done this but I remember seeing somewhere that when you do this you have to divide (or multiply?) by 2 because the spinning wheel will go through twice the revolutions since the other tire is stationary. Someone who has done this probably knows better than I do though.

Personally, I just drain the fluid and read it off the gears themselves... "11 41" is 3.73 gears.

Cecil14
11-28-2006, 06:52 AM
I have never done this but I remember seeing somewhere that when you do this you have to divide (or multiply?) by 2 because the spinning wheel will go through twice the revolutions since the other tire is stationary. Someone who has done this probably knows better than I do though.

Personally, I just drain the fluid and read it off the gears themselves... "11 41" is 3.73 gears.

The best way to do this is to raise ONE tire and put the transmission in neutral. Make sure you block everything really well. Spin that one tire until the driveshaft rotates one full time. Count your revolutions.


aa

grand_wag_85
11-28-2006, 07:35 AM
I have never done this but I remember seeing somewhere that when you do this you have to divide (or multiply?) by 2 because the spinning wheel will go through twice the revolutions since the other tire is stationary. Someone who has done this probably knows better than I do though.

Personally, I just drain the fluid and read it off the gears themselves... "11 41" is 3.73 gears.

That makes sense, we were trying to determine the ratio on a buddy's CJ and we knew it had low(#) gears so we got a little more than 1.5 rotations and we later found out the truck had 3.31's:banghead: