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View Full Version : burb springs on the rear?


Zorm
11-14-2006, 10:25 PM
Ok, I know river beast did this, questions I have is, how much does it move the axle, other mods? drive shaft, fender trim, e-brake lines?:) :fsj:

Bama Burden
11-15-2006, 06:19 AM
If you're willing to move front and rear spring hangers to accomodate the longer spring, then there shouldn't be any change at all.

River Beast
11-15-2006, 06:26 AM
Ok, I know river beast did this, questions I have is, how much does it move the axle, other mods? drive shaft, fender trim, e-brake lines?:) :fsj:

If you leave the front hangars alone, relocate the rear... you move the axle back 4.5". remember I did this with TT's Shackle Flip kit out back with the SOA. The rear wheel wells will need attention as well as trimming back the opening. the driveshaft will be too short and your E-Brake lines will also be too short.

If you are planning this without SOA... you will be removing the OEM rear hanger and relocating it rearward.

Check out the pics in my gallery at www.fsjworld.com (http://www.fsjworld.com)

Tad
11-15-2006, 07:05 AM
The spring pin difference on mine was about 6" back.
http://members.cox.net/pmountsoa/Day7/02sixinchpindiff.JPG

It did not move it quite that far back but close to it.
I have not messed with my EBrake cables, I do not have much room to play with anymore down under there.
New drive shaft, but I went to 1410 yokes so that was needed anyway.

Zorm
11-15-2006, 02:30 PM
Kewl, I am thinking about doing this without a SOA, also thinking about putting some glass rear flares on by removing the rearward part of the wheel well but leaving the front end alone. Since I have a 4"lift already, would I need to add or remove anything using the burb springs, oh yea, what year burbs??:fsj:

JeepsAndGuns
11-15-2006, 04:00 PM
Hope this is not too off the topic and dont want to hijack, but is there anyone that has done this without moveing the axle back? I kinda like the idea of the longer and better springs, but I still want my tires centered in the wheel wells and dont want to cut them. How hard were the hangers to fab?

mudslider
11-15-2006, 04:21 PM
jeepsandguns, i did this without moving the axle back but i relocated both hangers and i also have a jtruck. but if you move both hangers you might fit them in there. would wags have any issues with relocating the front hangers? there are also prefabbed hangers there. there is a post i think from brutus where he bought his hangers from so search on here for that. there are many places that prefab hangers if you search long enough on here youll find them.

BRUTUS
11-15-2006, 04:37 PM
Hangers were from Sky Manufacturing (http://www.sky-manufacturing.com)under accessories... $18 EACH... NOT $18 each pair!

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/images/suzuki/chevyhangers.jpg

River Beast
11-15-2006, 08:26 PM
Kewl, I am thinking about doing this without a SOA, also thinking about putting some glass rear flares on by removing the rearward part of the wheel well but leaving the front end alone. Since I have a 4"lift already, would I need to add or remove anything using the burb springs, oh yea, what year burbs??:fsj:

My burb springs were out of a 96 3/4 ton... even after I removed the overload springs, I still gained about 2" of lift. you may want to play around with removing leafs to get the desired stance.

Depending on your tire size, you may have to clearance the inner wells for full articulation, I patched in and moved the inner well back to match my flares when I did this.

Here is a pic of stock springs in stock location...

http://fsjworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Riverbeast/84559.jpg


Here is a pic with the burb springs in and overloads removed... note the arch difference....

http://fsjworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Riverbeast/84555.jpg


Here is the flare attached and inner well clearance...this was ALOT of work...... sorry no better shots of the inner well to show....

http://fsjworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Riverbeast/84574.jpg

Tad
11-15-2006, 09:03 PM
Zorm,
Like RB above I used about the same method.
IIRC (it's probably in the link) my springs were labeled 199something-2WD-PU, but same deal, overload was removed and it was still a decent amount I had to deal with up front.
Where I changed was removing all the inner wheel well (mines a chopo-hacko-rusto rig).
It's sort of hard to explain but I did take a bunch of pic's.
They are in that link in my sig, the "It's Time" one.
IIRC the rear starts on about page 3, although it does come back later when I needed to level out the front, maybe around page 5-6.

Slick Willie
11-15-2006, 10:14 PM
These "burb springs" from such and such vehicles....I'm assuming these are the 63" Chevy/GM springs everyone talks about? I think they're all referring to the same springs. Most 1/2 ton Chevy/GMC from late 1980's up have the 63" rear springs. Just check for a 4 leaf pack, 3 leafs with a straight fourth leaf on bottom (overload spring) that measure 63" from eye to eye. Some of these same trucks came with 56" springs that look the same, so measure carefully.

Brad W.
11-16-2006, 06:10 PM
IIRC the 63" spring will only be on 1/2 tons after the 1988 body style change. most half tons had 52" before that and 56" on the "heavy halfs".

So look for 88-up donors and be sure to measure as transition years are wierd combos of parts sometimes.

Dmntxn77
11-17-2006, 05:18 PM
I swapped some in from a late 88's burb when I did the SOA on my 79 Chief. I dont remember if it was 1/2 or 3/4 ton. I do know that it was 2WD with a 454. I removed the bottom over-load leaf and was able to bring the rear up level with the front with the built-in adjustment from Todd's kit. These springs moved my rear axle forward about 1/2"...

Tad
11-17-2006, 07:03 PM
I swapped some in from a late 88's burb when I did the SOA on my 79 Chief. I dont remember if it was 1/2 or 3/4 ton. I do know that it was 2WD with a 454. I removed the bottom over-load leaf and was able to bring the rear up level with the front with the built-in adjustment from Todd's kit. These springs moved my rear axle forward about 1/2"...
Robert, help me out here, that just does not sound right.
You installed longer springs (56" vs 63"), with a spring pin location that is further back, yet it moved your axle forward?
I'm a bit confused how this could even happen
Or am I reading your post wrong?

Dmntxn77
11-17-2006, 11:48 PM
I dunno either... Maybe not all burb springs are longer like Will said... In fact, the burb was one that my father-in-law had just for the engine, but still needed to be able to roll it around his property. So, I swapped my Chief springs back into the burb, and they fit fine too... This burb's springs were just a hair longer, and the pin seemed to be in exactly the same place before I installed them. Once I dropped the weight of the Chief on them, the axle located about 1/2" forward of where it was before the shackle flip with factory springs. I probably should have swapped the leafs around to move the axle back instead of forward, but it worked out good with my factory rear driveshaft, and I did not want to take a chance of streaching it out too far.

Crazy_Jeepman
11-18-2006, 05:52 AM
Yea I have a Chevy Van 87 or 88 can't remember now..............but the springs in it are short and look to be the same length as FSJ springs. When I was lookin around for 63" springs I ran into quite a few rigs with the shorter springs.