Square Front Driveshaft Question [Archive] - International Full Size Jeep Association

BRUTUS

10-30-2006, 06:11 PM

So here is the background...

1410 yoke at the front differential input
2.00" x 1/4" wall square shaft
2.50" x 1/4" wall square shaft
1310 CV at the transfer case (it will be upgraded when I get the new transfer case... this is only temporary)

I got my 1410 weld yoke in the mail today and it has a round hollow weld-side.

http://www.jasonhabrock.com/jeep/images/frontdriveshaft1.jpg

It is meant for a 3" round tube to press fit and weld the seam.

I would prefer to take the weld yoke to my mill at work and mill out a space for the 2" shaft to fit completely inside the hollow weld-yoke, MORE than this:

http://www.jasonhabrock.com/jeep/images/frontdriveshaft3.jpg

The other option is to butt weld the yoke to the 2.5" shaft like so:

http://www.jasonhabrock.com/jeep/images/frontdriveshaft2.jpg

What do you guys think?

I think the advantages to welding to the smaller tube are:

mechanical connection in conjunction with welded connection
with the slip of the shaft pointed at the front axle, water/gunk is less likely to get into the joint
it would be hard to get the yoke perfectly centered on the 2.5" tubeAre there any other considerations/ideas you guys have?

jsinajeep

10-30-2006, 07:19 PM

Do you think you can get that thing balanced enough to run on the road. If you want to do something like that then go to a farm parts store somewhere and get an yoke for the 2" square tube

NVJEEPER

10-30-2006, 07:21 PM

putting the yoke an the smaller square is cool. maybe you could turn the square tube down a few thou. and it would slip in leaving the yoke at full stength then weld the dude up. only a thought.

rockingon24_7

10-30-2006, 08:48 PM

I'm with NVJEEPER (http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/member.php?u=10600) mill down the small square tubing just enough to slide in and but. and not to get off the thread to far but has anyone used a tractor attachment drive shaft. They have a huge amount of slide like the square shafts and the joints can go to high angels. Are there crossover u-joints to like attach a 1410 yoke to a tractor shaft yoke? Just a thought

FSJ Guy

10-30-2006, 08:54 PM

Machine down the smaller tube. I know you have access to a machine like that somwhere. <g>

BRUTUS

10-30-2006, 11:25 PM

Do you think you can get that thing balanced enough to run on the road. If you want to do something like that then go to a farm parts store somewhere and get an yoke for the 2" square tube

I don't need it to balance because I have a D20. So the shaft will only turn when I am offroad.

putting the yoke an the smaller square is cool. maybe you could turn the square tube down a few thou. and it would slip in leaving the yoke at full stength then weld the dude up. only a thought.

I can put the smaller shaft on the lathe and turn it down.. but then I lose the mechanical connection that I would have if I hog out a square hole... it is just a tube within a tube again. If the welds were ever to break.. it would just spin inside. The other part is that if you look at the first picture the weld yoke has a tapered inside, so I would have to match the taper when I mill the small tube. For a machinist.. that would be pretty easy... I haven't touched a lathe in 5 years :eek:

I don't think it will take much of the strength out of the weld yoke because the tube already starts to slip inside, maybe 0.050" before it stops. So the outer thickness ~3/16" (or 1/4") would still be intact around the whole joint.

Thanks for your suggestions guys.

Brad W.

10-30-2006, 11:28 PM

Machine down the smaller tube. I know you have access to a machine like that somwhere. <g>

yeah, it's called an angle grinder, lol. :p :D

Brad W.

10-30-2006, 11:30 PM

seriously though, i'd just mill the yoke and weld the living snot out of it. It's the weld that'll be important. If it comes apart it'll probably destroy the yoke no matter how you put it together.

BRUTUS

10-30-2006, 11:53 PM

Machine down the smaller tube. I know you have access to a machine like that somwhere. <g>

You didn't notice the lathe in the background? :lol:

Desert Beast

10-31-2006, 12:36 AM

Herk

10-31-2006, 06:00 AM

I know taking it to a driveline shop would be taking the easy way out, but give it some thought. I'm pretty sure you'll have the only square driveshaft in the world; ever wonder why all the others are round? I don't want to sound like a total pessimist, nor am I trying to bash your abilities as a fabricator, but I doubt you will ultimately be happy with this setup.

rockjeep44

10-31-2006, 06:50 AM

rustywagoneers_com

10-31-2006, 06:56 AM

BRUTUS, you rebel!

actually,
square shafts are pretty common on trail rigs these days.

peace
Dave

BRUTUS

10-31-2006, 08:05 AM

for my shafts im machining the weld yoke for the smaller tube. all 4 of them. then for the side w/ the 2.5" im gonna use about 4" of the smaller tube and weld it to the 2.5" w/ some plug welds also. makes it so you only have to machine the weld yokes for one size.

You are machining it like I mentioned above... square hole?

I haven't taken the old CV off the front driveshaft yet but the surface area for welding looks much larger on the CV. I guess I will cross that bridge when I get there.

I know taking it to a driveline shop would be taking the easy way out, but give it some thought. I'm pretty sure you'll have the only square driveshaft in the world; ever wonder why all the others are round? I don't want to sound like a total pessimist, nor am I trying to bash your abilities as a fabricator, but I doubt you will ultimately be happy with this setup.

One thing I have learned to avoid on boards like this are words like "only" because there is always someone on here that can find a site to disprove your argument. My advice is if you REALLY REALLY want to use a word like "only", do a bunch of searching beforehand. Odds are that it will still get disproven but at least you have tried. :thumbsup:

Desert Beast

10-31-2006, 09:18 AM

I'm pretty sure you'll have the only square driveshaft in the world; ever wonder why all the others are round?

hahahahaha

i bet hes the only person in the world to put a dana 60 in the front of his jeep also. man, what a rebel.

jesus :rolleyes:

You are machining it like I mentioned above... square hole?

yup. it helps to have a friend that programs cnc machines for a living. :thumbsup:

4x4fEvEr

10-31-2006, 10:33 AM

I'm 100% sure you're wrong.
http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q=square+driveshaft
:thumbsup:

i 100% agree with you andrew

my square shaft is buttwelded against the smaller tuber (1310 yoke) and it works great. i have lost the tcase end (double cardan) once on the trail because i was highly stuck and all the torque tore the weld lose (excuse my ability to weld):banghead: and produced much carnage. http://www.4wheelingcentral.com/albums/album122/acd.jpg

either way you do it just weld the hell out of it, but id personally go with grinding down the smaller tube and welding it to that.

NVJEEPER

10-31-2006, 10:41 AM

now i see what you would mill...just some of the taper. Kewl!
lookin forward to the update!!!

NVJEEPER

10-31-2006, 10:44 AM

i 100% agree with you andrew

my square shaft is buttwelded against the smaller tuber (1310 yoke) and it works great. i have lost the tcase end (double cardan) once on the trail because i was highly stuck and all the torque tore the weld lose (excuse my ability to weld):banghead: and produced much carnage. http://www.4wheelingcentral.com/albums/album122/acd.jpg

either way you do it just weld the hell out of it, but id personally go with grinding down the smaller tube and welding it to that.

Wow was that a weld let go or the small tube spun in the bigone?

BRUTUS

10-31-2006, 10:57 AM

Wow was that a weld let go or the small tube spun in the bigone?

Looks like the small tube spun the big one and ripped 3/4 of the weld off before seperating completely.

derf

10-31-2006, 12:51 PM

BRUTUS

10-31-2006, 01:20 PM

Never underestimate "redneck engineering".

Ironically enough.. I am a "redneck" by upbringing and a degree'd mechanical "engineer" by trade.

rustywagoneers_com

10-31-2006, 01:27 PM

Thomas Edison said, (i am sure this is at least a slight paraphrase)

"this problem is too difficult for the professionals, an amateur will have to solve this"

and remember, trained professionals built the titanic, but the ark was built by one lone wacko...

peace
Dave

Carl Rasmussen

10-31-2006, 01:36 PM

I have a question.....
is it really that hard to find round tubing?

BRUTUS

10-31-2006, 01:41 PM

I have a question.....
is it really that hard to find round tubing?

Round tubing isn't the issue... it is the splined slip shaft that costs the money... so when you replace the splined slip shaft with off the shelf steel stock... much cheaper.

4x4fEvEr

10-31-2006, 02:25 PM

Wow was that a weld let go or the small tube spun in the bigone?

the weld broke lose right where the square tubing is seamed together and the big tube started to peel that little tube off before it broke completely in two. i really need bigger tubing but i couldnt squeeze it in there without rerouting the exhaust and notching the crossmember

Desert Beast

10-31-2006, 03:40 PM

I have a question.....
is it really that hard to find round tubing?

for slip and strength.
you ever spec'd out a .250 wall dshaft? (read: $$$)
my buddy just spent 2gs on shafts that will be as strong as my $200 square shafts.

Slick Willie

10-31-2006, 05:43 PM

Here's how I see it:

Option 1: Butt weld it - if the weld breaks, you end up with a 2 piece driveshaft.
Option 2: Round off square tubing - if the weld breaks, the shaft will spin inside the yoke, but you will end up with a 2 piece driveshaft.
Option 3: Make the yoke square - if the weld breaks, the shaft will not spin inside the yoke, but you will end up with a 2 piece driveshaft.

Now here's a few key points:

- If the welds break, you're S.O.L., so you better have good welds.
- Option 3 will put less stress on the weld due to the square shape taking some of the torque, allowing the weld to take the rest (vs. all of the torque).
- Option 2 will make the square tube thin where you weld it to the yoke, possibly allowing less strength, but again, it depends on your welds.

So, depending on how much torque you can predict (yeah right), I'd say worry about welding it good. I'd pick 3, 1, 2. Sorry it took so long to just say 3 numbers. :D

Dmntxn77

10-31-2006, 07:53 PM

How about you do both...

Meaning...
Mill the smaller one down to fit inside the yoke, then fill the yoke with weld. Next cut about a 2" piece of the larger tube, and slide it over the smaller tube all the way down to the yoke. Then you can weld the bottom edge of the larger tube to the yoke, and the top edge to the smaller tube. That should give you the best of both worlds. Right??

BRUTUS

10-31-2006, 11:10 PM

Firegoose

10-31-2006, 11:11 PM

BRUTUS

10-31-2006, 11:33 PM

I like the idea of the square tubing for the front drive shaft.....

I'm throwing this idea out there.... my bushhog has a square "solid" inner shaft with a square hollow outside. May be something to think about.

I had never thought about ag shafts because I figured that ag shafts didn't use anything as big as a 1410 joint. I am gonna have to check them out.

sjlplat

11-01-2006, 02:53 AM

I used two different types of yokes for my square shaft. Used a standard 3" 1350 fixed yoke, ground to fit inside the larger tubing, then used a 1350 slip-yoke, and ground that down to fit inside the smaller tubing. Everything was pressed at 20 tons, and welded at the seams.

worn4wd

11-01-2006, 06:54 AM

Dmntxn77

11-01-2006, 06:55 AM

I had thought about that but the larger tube does not even begin to fit over the yoke.

I know that is does not go over it, but from the pics, it looks like you would still get some fresh weld surface...

rustywagoneers_com

11-01-2006, 06:59 AM

break down and get some DOM tubeing and a slip joint from your local spicer rep and just make a "real" driveshaft. if money is an issue just get one at the junkyard that is longer than you need, and cut it down.
i usualy do the later, because i'm cheap!
good luck

the slip yoke from the spicer dealer won't have any more LENGTH of slip than the one he is taking out.
leafs can flex great, but the axle will follow a different arc than the driveshaft, there fore we need a slip element (usually a splined section)

however, if one uses square tubing such as described, you can have nearly as much 'slip' as half the length of the driveshaft. (for really flexy leaf suspensions, and some link systems that don't follow the arc of the driveshaft)

peace
Dave

sjlplat

11-01-2006, 01:17 PM

the slip yoke from the spicer dealer won't have any more LENGTH of slip than the one he is taking out.
leafs can flex great, but the axle will follow a different arc than the driveshaft, there fore we need a slip element (usually a splined section)

however, if one uses square tubing such as described, you can have nearly as much 'slip' as half the length of the driveshaft. (for really flexy leaf suspensions, and some link systems that don't follow the arc of the driveshaft)

peace
Dave

That pretty much explains it. I went through 2 different slip yokes before I decided to go square. My rig was pulling the slip yoke clean off the splines. They just don't make off the shelf slip yokes with enough slip for my rig. The only choices I had were custom splines, a limiting strap, or square. I went the cheap route, since I had already dropped a good $600 in the front driveshaft.

83 BEAST

11-01-2006, 05:48 PM

WOW!!!! that sucks!

Brown Bear

11-01-2006, 06:02 PM

Ironically enough.. I am a "redneck" by upbringing and a degree'd mechanical "engineer" by trade.

Speaking as a fellow ME in training, I would do the force analysis on this shaft: square vs round, butt weld vs milling, cross sectional area reduction, heat concentrations, and stress concentrations due to various machining efforts before I touched one piece of metal to another. These types of analysis, as you know, can be done quick and dirty without too much sweat, and might lead you to other avenues of thinking such as sleeving the yoke to the shaft. Two things I would be worried about are the stress concentrators induced by the yoke, and the sheer stress at the joint between the differing cross sectional areas of the yoke and the tubes. I might even do a quick and dirty analysis of the minimum I needed to resist the torsion that shaft will see if say a front wheel gets jammed.

But then again, I do these sorts of things for s###ts and giggles all the time :o

jeepzilla47

11-01-2006, 08:00 PM

not an engineer by trade, but i have worked with alot in my industry...(papermill general mechanic)....i have seen alot of things that should work on paper, but dont in the real world.......and i have also seen things that absolutely should not work, but have been for many years......

i would machine the yoke to accept the smaller tubing.......weld it, then make you a collar to slide over the tubing and weld up to the yoke....

anyway, just my .02

i like the ideal of the ag shafts, but at the time, i could not find a crossover joint......(i have limited rescources)....maybe somebody could come up with some numbers.....

jtr

11-01-2006, 09:42 PM

I am an engineer by education/trade and I have found that sometimes you have to try things out.
Burn it in......it was cheap fix anyway. Go wheelin.

BRUTUS

11-02-2006, 08:19 AM

I guess my question is ...after all the money you have spent on Axles, lifts, transmission and doubler why get cheap now? A high quality, balanced, warrantied drive shaft is peace of mind.

I don't see it as any compromise as far as quality goes. Did you read this:

I went through 2 different slip yokes before I decided to go square. My rig was pulling the slip yoke clean off the splines. They just don't make off the shelf slip yokes with enough slip for my rig. The only choices I had were custom splines, a limiting strap, or square. I went the cheap route, since I had already dropped a good $600 in the front driveshaft.

If that doesn't say it all I don't know what will.

HeepofaJeep

11-02-2006, 11:23 AM

Speaking as a fellow ME in training, I would do the force analysis on this shaft: square vs round, butt weld vs milling, cross sectional area reduction, heat concentrations, and stress concentrations due to various machining efforts before I touched one piece of metal to another. These types of analysis, as you know, can be done quick and dirty without too much sweat, and might lead you to other avenues of thinking such as sleeving the yoke to the shaft. Two things I would be worried about are the stress concentrators induced by the yoke, and the sheer stress at the joint between the differing cross sectional areas of the yoke and the tubes. I might even do a quick and dirty analysis of the minimum I needed to resist the torsion that shaft will see if say a front wheel gets jammed.

But then again, I do these sorts of things for s###ts and giggles all the time :o

Holy CRAP! Why don't you do an FEA & full engineering report while you're at it. In the time it took you to do the calculations you could have just butt-welded it together & tested it in the real world ;)

I am an engineer by education/trade and I have found that sometimes you have to try things out.
Burn it in......it was cheap fix anyway. Go wheelin.

No kiddng. Weld it up, and hit the trails. The time you've spent just typing up in this thread could have been used to build the driveline :fsj:.

Toyota guys have been doing it for years-- it works, may not be the best balanced, but I doubt you are pre-running in 4wd :cool:.

Machining it would be cool, but I think there are other parts I would rather have machined if I had access to the equipment :)

sjlplat

11-02-2006, 04:07 PM

I guess my question is ...after all the money you have spent on Axles, lifts, transmission and doubler why get cheap now? A high quality, balanced, warrantied drive shaft is peace of mind.

My rear driveshaft is a quality, balanced, warrantied CV shaft. I have dropped the entire weight (5k lbs) of my rig on the front driveshaft without any evidence of damage. The rear driveshaft can't handle anywhere near that amount of abuse.

When it comes to a rear shaft, It's important to ensure it is balanced if it will see any street driving. As far as a front shaft goes, it doesn't spin fast enough (Unless you've got slugs or full-time 4wd) to need balancing.

Brown Bear

11-02-2006, 06:00 PM

Well, it could work, for awhile, or it could work forever. I'd feel more comfortable seeing numbers telling me it will still be working in 6 months time rather than finding out 3 miles deep on a trail full of mud. If you have the tools at your disposal, it seems like a shame to waste them.

DAHoyle

11-03-2006, 06:03 AM

My 2 cents worth.. I like idea number one better, and would persue that course if I had the means, not so much for a strength reason, just that it could help to index and phase the driveshaft. From a strength standpoint, I'm quite certain that either technique will work and most likely not be the weak point in the drive line.

For the record....:huh: There's way too much negative discussion in this thread by naysayers, when this technique has been in use for quite some time. This is getting reall close to the Duraspark/HEI debate. Both sides have merit. As far as all the "experts" talking about doing a failure analysis and such, Throw your numbers on the table. I'm doubtful that you can come up with even half of the variables, but give it a shot. The man asked a specific question, about a specific design element, not wether he shold buy a $1000 custom drive shaft. If you don't have an opinion specific to his question, then start your own thread to discuss the merits of a square drive shaft.

The very fact that it surprises some of you that someone would even consider it, means you aren't quite the vanguard of 4X4 fabrication data you seem to think. They have been in use, successfully, for quite some time.

jeepzilla47

11-03-2006, 09:55 AM

:drivin::thumbsup: what he said...........now quit web wheeling and go do it....:fsj:

Arborigine

11-03-2006, 10:02 AM

How about heating the last 3 inches of the tube to a dull red and pounding a cone into it? Now it's round!

Brad W.

11-03-2006, 01:05 PM

Why bother, he's got a huge machine shop at his disposal. Machine the yoke where you want it to phase the driveshaft, and weld the crap out of it with a 220 mig or arc. I mean really burn that sucker in there. It might be helpful to pre-heat the yoke and use a high-nickel wire/rod, since you are welding to a cast yoke. Ask Tad about that, i'm not an expert.

BRUTUS

11-03-2006, 01:54 PM

OK, if its a square shaft going to a round yoke, mill the shaft to fit the yoke. First slip another smaller piece of square tube in the Small shaft. Drill and plug weld them on the flats. Then mill down the corners of the shaft to fit in the yoke and weld them together. This way there will be no loss of strength at the joint.

Then again, I am Capt Over Kill....

Capt Over Kill, I think you are missing the point of my question... Your answer still neglects MECHANICAL connection in favor of WELDED connection.

I have thought this over more and here is my final decision. I will mill the yoke to fit the 2x2 tube inside... seam weld the 2x2 to the yoke... grind a small portion of the outer flange (and some of the protruding weld) of the yoke square so that the 2.5x2.5 tube fits over BOTH the 2x2 and yoke where it is square and then seam weld the 2.5x2.5 (2" long) to the yoke and also seam weld it to the 2x2. Triple mechanical connection reinforced with welds.

Thanks for your help and ideas everyone.

Brad W.

11-03-2006, 02:06 PM

yep. I like the idea of the collar over the milled and welded yoke, can't hurt to have another connection. Post up some pics of how it turns out.

sjlplat

11-04-2006, 07:05 AM

Capt Over Kill, I think you are missing the point of my question... Your answer still neglects MECHANICAL connection in favor of WELDED connection.

I have thought this over more and here is my final decision. I will mill the yoke to fit the 2x2 tube inside... seam weld the 2x2 to the yoke... grind a small portion of the outer flange (and some of the protruding weld) of the yoke square so that the 2.5x2.5 tube fits over BOTH the 2x2 and yoke where it is square and then seam weld the 2.5x2.5 (2" long) to the yoke and also seam weld it to the 2x2. Triple mechanical connection reinforced with welds.

Thanks for your help and ideas everyone.

I'm sure your junk will turn out far more balanced than mine, but that's pretty similar to what we did. We didn't have a mill at our disposal, so a grinder and a press had to do. No doubt you'll be happy with the end result. :thumbsup:

Slick Willie

11-07-2006, 08:21 AM

Shoot, that'll work! Post up some pics too.

Arborigine

11-07-2006, 07:34 PM

Does anyone know of anyone using three-pointed tractor PTO shafting like this?
http://www.ptoshafts.com/newpage76.htm

BassnTruck

11-07-2006, 11:28 PM

Does anyone know of anyone using three-pointed tractor PTO shafting like this?
http://www.ptoshafts.com/newpage76.htm

Probally not that one.

Transmittable horse power at 540 rpm is 35 HP, at 1000 rpm is 55 HP.

Bob Barry

11-08-2006, 08:36 AM

Probally not that one.

Transmittable horse power at 540 rpm is 35 HP, at 1000 rpm is 55 HP.

Yeah; in low-range and first-gear, that shaft is seeing close to 2000 ft/lbs.

Square-tube shafts are a proven solution for off-roading, and as a noted benefit, you can let it churn away over the rocks where even a thick-wall round shaft is going to distort, twist and fail.

blt2krl

11-08-2006, 09:28 AM

I say push the idea envelope. To heck with the negative commments. It is your rig by god, build it like you want.

Alon K.

11-08-2006, 01:48 PM

Does anyone know of anyone using three-pointed tractor PTO shafting like this?
http://www.ptoshafts.com/newpage76.htm
Yup. One of the rock\mud league competitors tried it out on his rig. The problem is those things have a top spinning speed of 1000 RPMs and that turns out to be about 25 MPH if you're on 37's with 4.56 gears. To slow.

http://jeepolog.com/with.php?pic=frog3/xt116.jpg
http://jeepolog.com/with.php?pic=frog3/N837.jpg
http://jeepolog.com/with.php?pic=frog3/N888.jpg
You can just see the hexagon shape in the last picture.

We did a write up on the rig in 2005, you're more than welcome to go take a peek. The write up is in Hebrew, but the pictures aren't.

Alon K.

11-08-2006, 01:49 PM

Oopsi, here's the link to the write up:
http://jeepolog.com/6.html

Kenall

11-08-2006, 06:04 PM

I came in late.

Grind the small till it fits inside the yoke.
weld the 2. for diff end.
Weld the large to another yoke for the Tcase end.

no way for the smaller tube to spin inside the larger?

Arborigine

11-08-2006, 09:04 PM

Thats cool, but i can't read it. Thanks

Desert Beast

11-13-2006, 12:25 AM

here ya go yall.

just load up your 3 axis cnc mill.

http://www.southbaycustoms.com/fullsizejeeps/buildup/rockwells/shafts/yoke1.JPG

indicate it,

http://www.southbaycustoms.com/fullsizejeeps/buildup/rockwells/shafts/yoke2.JPG

and start making chips. :thumbsup:

http://www.southbaycustoms.com/fullsizejeeps/buildup/rockwells/shafts/yoke3.JPG

bada bing, bada boom.
square (and true) dshafts.

http://www.southbaycustoms.com/fullsizejeeps/buildup/rockwells/shafts/yoke5.JPG

http://www.southbaycustoms.com/fullsizejeeps/buildup/rockwells/shafts/yoke6.JPG

Desert Beast

11-13-2006, 12:27 AM

btw,

i made all 4 weld yokes to fit the 2" tube and for the 2 that will need to go on the 2.5" im just going to weld in a piece of 2" about 4" long and then slip over the 2.5" and weld it to the yoke also and plug weld it.

shadowjeep

11-13-2006, 08:28 AM

great idea, that should do the trick.:thumbsup:

rockjeep44

11-13-2006, 08:36 AM

That's awesome

learfxr

11-13-2006, 06:05 PM

so, how much to make a set for my YJ? I don't have the equipment to do the work

DAHoyle

11-13-2006, 06:13 PM

Got started on mine yet?

Desert Beast

11-14-2006, 12:44 AM

so, how much to make a set for my YJ? I don't have the equipment to do the work

unfortunately i dont have the equipment either, luckily i have a good friend that happens to be a cnc programmer.

i made my front shaft tonight.

i welded a 3" piece of the 2" .250 wall into an end yoke.
http://www.southbaycustoms.com/fullsizejeeps/buildup/rockwells/shafts/yoke7.JPG

i was able to get some weld on the inside also.
http://www.southbaycustoms.com/fullsizejeeps/buildup/rockwells/shafts/yoke8.JPG

i then drilled some holes in my 2.5" for some plug welds.
http://www.southbaycustoms.com/fullsizejeeps/buildup/rockwells/shafts/yoke9.JPG

slide it in and weld'er up.
http://www.southbaycustoms.com/fullsizejeeps/buildup/rockwells/shafts/yoke10.JPG

no pic of the finished product, but let me tell you that .250 wall will go before the weld does.

shadowjeep

11-14-2006, 07:27 AM

thats awsome, now when can ya make some for the rest of us.:D

BRUTUS

11-14-2006, 08:12 AM

DB... that is what I am talking about! :thumbsup:

Dalton37

11-14-2006, 09:07 AM

Wow, this is a great thread. I will be using a lot if this information in my future projects. Subscribing.

learfxr

11-14-2006, 11:25 AM

I have some machinist friends back in Okla, but it's a 6 hour drive away. I may have to go see them over the holidays and show them this thread. My YJ is a custom creature using the Wagoneer TF727, NP208 and for now has the stock axles. It will be getting either a regeared AMC20 or possibly a GM14. Not sure on the 14 yet, a friend back in Okla has one setting under a van he said I could have.

Desert Beast

11-17-2006, 10:35 PM

DB... that is what I am talking about! :thumbsup:

hey man, i aim to please, :thumbsup:

i put the front driveline in and it looks like it will work well. obviously im not getting this thing balanced, but i think that it will work ok.

Slick Willie

11-29-2006, 10:32 PM

So I may have missed it, but which end is going to the transfer case? 2.5" or 2"? And what about the rear?

BRUTUS

11-29-2006, 11:43 PM

So I may have missed it, but which end is going to the transfer case? 2.5" or 2"? And what about the rear?

DB can put them either way because he is doing 1410's for every u-joint.

I am pretty sure you want the 2.5" end at the transfer case and the 2" end at the diff. Keeps grease in and water/grime/oil out the way I see it.

Brad W.

11-29-2006, 11:44 PM

It doesn't really matter if it's 1410 on both ends, depends on the clearance with the exhaust, etc. I guess. Personally, i'd run the small tube on the axle side to help keep it out of the rocks, but it's really no different either way.

HotRodYJ

11-30-2006, 02:10 PM

One additional thing you might consider doing is to reinforce the open end of the larger outside tube with a 1" slice of 3" square like how the end of a hitch receiver is made. This protects againt splitting the tube down the weld. It's done on receiver hitchs for the very same reason, to prevent spliting the receiver tube. Like I did on the end of this receiver...

http://www.4x4grace.com/photos/albums/rti/rti4.jpg

Brad W.

11-30-2006, 03:45 PM

hey now, thats a good idea. I didn't think about the seam cracking.

bigun

12-02-2006, 02:37 PM

Nice

Desert Beast

12-02-2006, 04:52 PM

So I may have missed it, but which end is going to the transfer case? 2.5" or 2"? And what about the rear?

like brutus said im gonna run the 2.5 on the tcase end to prevent (as much as i can) crap from getting in the shaft.

i like the idea of the 3" to strengthen it. might look into it. i dont think that it would cause too much problems draging across the rocks w/ the extra .25".