Fabrication - Cutting

[Wagillac]

What do you use when cutting thick metal tubing or other 3/16 and thicker steel. When I was making the rear spring drop brackets I used the plasma to cut some but spent a bunch or time with the grinder cleaning up the edges where there was slag or I went off line. I have very little experience using the plasma cutter which is probably why it needs so much grinding. Other times I used a sawsall but it goes through blades quick cutting 1/4" and 3/8" steel. I tryed a cheap(maybe thats the problem) 14" chop saw but it didnt seam faster.
What do you use? Plasma, Chop Saw, Sawsall, Bandsaw, somthing else?
The next big thing I would like to build is bumpers out of 2x6" and 2x4" 3/16" or 1/4".

[RWalker]

Usually I would use the chop saw. I've cut up to 5in diameter tube with it. It will give you near finished cuts pretty quickly. It should only take a few seconds to saw through 3/16 steel. Another option would be to use a grinder with a cutoff wheel. I use that all the time too. The wheels come in either 4 or 4.5in diameters. For cutting curved pieces the plasma cutter is the way to go. For building bumpers where you need smooth cuts use the chop saw. What were the problems you were having with the chop saw?

[Glenn_tx]

Chop saw.

[243]

I agree with the chop saw but buy a couple of extra wheels...it's a pain in the butt when you have to stop what your doing to go buy one more to make the last few cuts.

At the machine shop, we used a horizontal bandsaw to cut up to 8" diameter ss rod. At the other shop, we used the same type of equipment to cut flat bar stock, cold roll and tubing up to 3" square.

Harbor Freight has an affordable horizontal bandsaw for 199.00 but I don't think it's water cooled. Abut twice as much as a chop saw but quieter; and, you can set it to cut and do something else while it's cutting.

[ February 16, 2003, 04:34 AM: Message edited by: 243 ]

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

243 IS RIGHT,BANDSAW ANYDAY,DO TO THE OVERALL THICKNESS YOU CAN CUT! BUT FOR HOME USE, A CHOP SAW SHOULD DO THE TRICK! YOU NEED TO GET A BETTER GRADE CUTTING WHEEL!!!!!! smile.gif

[64Trvlr]

Originally posted by GEMOBX/77/401:
FOR HOME USE, A CHOP SAW SHOULD DO THE TRICK! YOU NEED TO GET A BETTER GRADE CUTTING WHEEL!!!!!! smile.gif I agree with Gary. I use Sait cut off and grinding wheels, even though they cost more they will outlast and out cut they cheap ones many times over.
:cool:

[Nobby]

Bandsaw or powerhacksaw would be my first choice.

For non-commercial a chopsaw works great. As already mentioned use a good blade and take the time to square up blade yourself. Do not go by the markings on the table even on the expensive ones they are never accurate.

Sawzall will work but is harder to keep square and once again you need to get high quality blades.

Plasma Cutter will not work so well on pipe as you are cutting a radius(work is not flat).

Oh yeah cutting steel is not always quick, watch a bandsaw/powerhacksaw cut a piece of 10" roundstock. But as already said good blades will give better speeds.

[243]

Sait must be a brand name...good point Nobby, I rented a chop saw from Home Depot and had to used a square.

[64Trvlr]

Originally posted by 243:
Sait must be a brand name...Yes Sait is a brand name and well worth looking for.
:cool:

[Damage, Inc.]

Bandsaw...

When using a plasma cutter (on flat stock), clamp a guide on the line to follow, then hold the torch on the guide. Viola...

[Tad]

Sait (http://www.automatedfastening.com/ProductsPage/Abrasives/CuttingFrameset.htm)

[Michael F]

You can find Sait (bar cutting blades are best) at your local welding supply store. Also a good strong chopsaw is needed that does not bog down to easy and you can go right through 3/16" no problem.

I like a chopsaw better than a table bandsaw when you need to make short cuts the length of the stock you are working with

[Wagillac]

What I tried to cut with the chop saw was a 6" wide 3/16" flat stock. I never broke through because it boged down so much.
I used that harbor freight bandsaw for a few cuts but the blade came off multiple times. It would catch right at the end or when you tryed to start the cut. I guess I should try adjusting it better.

I need a torchmate for cutting steel plate.(yeah right)

[Michael F]

I have used a new Makita 14" with good 120v power to cut through 3"x4"x3/16", 2"x2"x1/4" tube and 1/4" plate like it was nothing and have tried to use a worn out Black & Decker with bad power and a cheap blade that took longer than using a hacksaw!

A new DeWalt or B&D is supposidly better than the Makita if you want to spend the money.

[Wagillac]

Where do you guys buy steel? How much does does it cost? Like around price would a foot of 2x6 3/16" be?

[wagdriver]

Look in the old standby The Yellow Pages under metals suppliers. They will usually want to sell you standard lengths which are usually depending on the material 20,24 and 40ft. For small pieces make friends with a small shop in town. A lot of the time they will give you small peices just to get rid of them. ;)

[Stangerize]

I use a Dewalt chopsaw if there is any way possible. Nice clean cuts. Well worth the money.

[Michael F]

If 2"x6"x3/16 is a standard size it could probably be had for way under $5.00 a foot, at least 2"x4" is around $3.50.

Try the local scrap yard they may sell scrap pieces. The local yard here sells for .25-.35$ a pound.

[Stolen76]

get a better blade, my chop saw is a cheapo, but with the good blade, I had no problem cutting the 2x6x1/4 c-channel I used for my front bumper.

[rockjeep44]

No one has mentioned an Acetelyne torch. I use it for a lot of my cuts. Once you get good with it you can make some really clean cuts.
-Andrew

[flyboy]

when you say you never broke thru, sounds like you had it laying flat. Try standing the stock on its edge.

[RWalker]

A good place to buy steel is from Metal Supermarkets. http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/default.htm
They have stores all over. You can go to their drop room and buy miscuts and scrap pretty cheap by the pound. They have a store in Portland.

[Wagillac]

Originally posted by flyboy:
when you say you never broke thru, sounds like you had it laying flat. Try standing the stock on its edge.I dont think it would fit standing on edge. I think it has a max height of 5" and it was 6"s wide.

I guess I will try a new cutting disc in the chop saw. I dont know what brand is in there now.

[netbear]

I have used all of the above but for me the
chop saw is a good choice. I decided to make
solid steel 1.5" thick, 6" long lift blocks
for my old Ford truck and cut the steel with
my Milwaukee chop saw. It did take a while
but the cuts were smooth and straight. For
thin material, 3/16" or so, you can use a
sawsall with good blades and plenty of cutting
oil. The cutting oil helps a lot on long cuts.
For clean curved cuts I have had good luck
with a 1" stroke industrial jig saw, good
blades and cutting oil. Just layout the lines
with marker before you begin.

[jeepguzzi]

I was spoiled. I worked for steel service centers for many years. I always had access to industrial bandsaws, CNC flamecutting, plasma and lasers, and of course, scads of scrap metal!!

The MetalMart and places like it, along with steel service centers, could have end cut, drops, rems, and scrap for sale. With Metal Mart, they specialize in small orders, and usually include cutting at no charge!!

If you can't use a band saw, the chop saw is good. The material has alot mor4e drag when you lay it flat. If you are using a band saw or a reciprocating saw, use the right blade, and try to keep at least 3-5 teeth into the metal at all times. Do not push on the saw excessively, that will create heat, which trashes the blade.

[Rogue]

Originally posted by rockjeep44:
No one has mentioned an Acetelyne torch. I use it for a lot of my cuts. Once you get good with it you can make some really clean cuts.
-Andrewyep yep - a good clean cutting head 40lb oxy 15lb acetlyne make a good cut if you hold it right!!! oxy/acet rig is very valuable equipment - heat up that stubborn bolt, chop top off rockcrawler project, braze together some s%^*....etc....etc...

[Stangerize]

Originally posted by RogueStar:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by rockjeep44:
No one has mentioned an Acetelyne torch. I use it for a lot of my cuts. Once you get good with it you can make some really clean cuts.
-Andrewyep yep - a good clean cutting head 40lb oxy 15lb acetlyne make a good cut if you hold it right!!! oxy/acet rig is very valuable equipment - heat up that stubborn bolt, chop top off rockcrawler project, braze together some s%^*....etc....etc...</font>[/QUOTE]Yes, a torch is very valuable in more ways than just cutting metal. But if I'm just making a quick clean cut straight or angled on structural steel... I'll grab the chop saw first. Cheaper than acetylene and oxygen. I couldn't have even started making my bumpers without a torch.

[64Trvlr]

Originally posted by RogueStar:
yep yep - a good clean cutting head 40lb oxy 15lb acetlyne make a good cut if you hold it right!!! I have a torch too and it works just fine to cut and heat metal but I hardly ever use more than 20psi Oxy and 6-7psi acet.
:cool:

[nxcj]

I scored a horizontal band saw at an auction the other day.
Here are the good parts: about a 15" x 13" capacity (it's big). And I have $100 in it... smile.gif

[Rogue]

Originally posted by 64Trvlr:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by RogueStar:
yep yep - a good clean cutting head 40lb oxy 15lb acetlyne make a good cut if you hold it right!!! I have a torch too and it works just fine to cut and heat metal but I hardly ever use more than 20psi Oxy and 6-7psi acet.
:cool: </font>[/QUOTE]yes those are great settings for thinner metal - excuse me I should have said for 1/4" and thicker I like those settings though your setting will still work for thicker metal its just a personal preference ;)

[Tad]

Originally posted by RogueStar:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by 64Trvlr:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by RogueStar:
yep yep - a good clean cutting head 40lb oxy 15lb acetlyne make a good cut if you hold it right!!! I have a torch too and it works just fine to cut and heat metal but I hardly ever use more than 20psi Oxy and 6-7psi acet.
:cool: </font>[/QUOTE]yes those are great settings for thinner metal - excuse me I should have said for 1/4" and thicker I like those settings though your setting will still work for thicker metal its just a personal preference ;) </font>[/QUOTE]Ah, a pissing match...
25-30 O2, 3-5 Ace, I wack 1/2" plate all day. Want sources?
Try AWS, ASME, they'll all tell you the same.
Get a tip chart from Victor, save you lots-o-$$ on fuel costs.

[Rogue]

pissing match? umm...pissing match? just personal preference...funny how others interpret things people say ;)
actually I was taught 5 - 7 acetelyne in my welding class in high school which was an accredited course so let the pissing begin! tongue.gif :D

[ February 18, 2003, 09:02 PM: Message edited by: RogueStar ]

[jeepguzzi]

For the best cut without blowing out the torch, you have to balance the gas pressure with the torch tip size and oxy pressure. I have not used much acetyline, did most of my flame cutting with natural gas!! The thinnest I cut was .180" and the thickest was 10.5"

[Tad]

Originally posted by RogueStar:
...pissing match? umm...pissing match?...Hey RogueStar, smile.gif I must a been feeling rather pissy myself when I wrote that, I see how it reads now and that was not my intent at all (I won't edit it, so all can read and enjoy). It's one of the reasons I don't normally answer welding and cutting questions very often unless asked to do so. We all get very set in our ways and KNOW what is CORRECT :D . Which is quite different from what can and will work.
So no offense intended and don't forget to open that primary Aceteylene valve all the way ;)

[Rogue]

Originally posted by tadsal:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by RogueStar:
...pissing match? umm...pissing match?...Hey RogueStar, smile.gif I must a been feeling rather pissy myself when I wrote that, I see how it reads now and that was not my intent at all (I won't edit it, so all can read and enjoy). It's one of the reasons I don't normally answer welding and cutting questions very often unless asked to do so. We all get very set in our ways and KNOW what is CORRECT :D . Which is quite different from what can and will work.
So no offense intended and don't forget to open that primary Aceteylene valve all the way ;) </font>[/QUOTE]umm...aren't you supposed to open the Oxygen all the way ( double seated valve ) and crack the acetelyne 1/4 turn so that it is easy to shut off in case of a fire? i know you wouldn't want to put potentially dangerous information out there...

[rawdave]

how about 100% water in your torch. no oxygen, no acetelyne. this guy has some really cool inventions.

Eagle Research Water Torch (http://www.eagle-research.com/browngas/er1200/er12001.html)

[Tad]

Originally posted by RogueStar:
...i know you wouldn't want to put potentially dangerous information out there...&lt;SIGH&gt; There are days when my sense of humor is just not acceptable :rolleyes:

[Nobby]

Originally posted by tadsal:
&lt;SIGH&gt; There are days when my sense of humor is just not acceptable :rolleyes: I got it. :D

[Green Giant]

Originally posted by Nobby:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by tadsal:
&lt;SIGH&gt; There are days when my sense of humor is just not acceptable :rolleyes: I got it. :D </font>[/QUOTE]I got it too! :D

[wagdriver]

There are a lot of personal preferences using an Oxy/Ac and if you want to do the job and use as little consumables as possible it is best to adhere to standards set by the industry experts. Using higher than neccessary settings only wastes resources and does not enhance the performance of the torch. The combination of correct fuel, oxygen, tip size, preheat, comfortable working position and cutting speed will greatly enhance the the out come of the work. Cuts made with these things in mind are very easy to clean up and will make things a lot easier for you. ;)

[Rogue]

Originally posted by tadsal:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by RogueStar:
...i know you wouldn't want to put potentially dangerous information out there...&lt;SIGH&gt; There are days when my sense of humor is just not acceptable :rolleyes: </font>[/QUOTE]i thought you were...but I wasn't sure ;) its ok my sense of humor is normally not acceptable - thats how all this got started - guess I was really the pissy one tongue.gif

[Tad]

Originally posted by RogueStar:
...its ok my sense of humor is normally not acceptable - thats how all this got started - guess I was really the pissy one...:cool: Just another morning in the big jeep world. :D