Hi-Steer Problems after SOA

[Woody Long]

Got my SOA done and have benn working on my Hi-steer set up. I have both passenger and drivers sides knuckles milled flat and tapped with studs. I have the waggie 7 leaf pack in front, but the arms I collected (OTT flat arms) don't allow for the stock steering to fit, the leaf springs are in the way. I dummied up some 1" spacers to see what they would do, they seem to work but I didn't like the idea of the spacers and long studs. I ended up getting the Sky Manufacturing Tall arms for the Dana 44. I quickley put them in place and find out that (1) my draglink hits the leaf pack and (2) I need to shorten my steering linkage.

I can't seem to solve this out. I should be taking pictures of both setups tomorrow.

Would a DPA help temporarly solve this problem if I leave the steering in the stock position?


Any help would do.


Thanks

[Tad]

Some pic's will certianly help Woody.
I went through a decent amount of crap also on mine, even with the PMP tall arms I needed a 1/4" thick spacer to clear the jam nut on the drag link at full droop.
http://members.cox.net/pmountsoa/Day3/12spacerclears.JPG

[Kenall]

I use spacers and I took out some of the spring leafs but put in
a thick AAL to compensate.

[Woody Long]

Here are some pictures.

The first one's are Sky Arms (shiny) then the OTT arms and finally the OTT arms with 1" dummy spacers.

I don't have a problem with the drivers side at all.

[Crazy_Jeepman]

The problem is you are using the WRONG Drag link. You need to have one made, and it goes from your Pitman Arm to the hole in the END of the Pass Side arm. Thats why that hole is there.

[Crazy_Jeepman]

Something like this :rolleyes:

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/dana44coil.JPG

[Slick Willie]

Yeah, take off the drag link, use the tie rod, but get a drag link made to connect to the arm, not the tie rod.

[Elliott]

Here are some pictures.

The first one's are Sky Arms (shiny) then the OTT arms and finally the OTT arms with 1" dummy spacers.

I don't have a problem with the drivers side at all.

That works better with the D60 set up like that and using a Ford tie rod, tons more clearance and where the drag link attaches the boss is angled up:

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Misc-Pictures/TieRod2a.JPG

[Crazy_Jeepman]

That works better with the D60 set up like that and using a Ford tie rod, tons more clearance and where the drag link attaches the boss is angled up

Even if he was to use Ford Setup, it would not work. I have a J10 setup like his to move it around the shop. The holes in the Sky Tall arms for the centerlink are half the distance that of the Pitman Arm while the end hole is about equal, to try to steer off them holes puts the ratio WAY OFF. When we move the J10 it has REALLY REALLY quick steering. If I remember right its less than two turns on the wheel Lock to Lock, but it is HARD to turn realy hard :grumble:

[Woody Long]

Alrigh boys, can I get away with using a DPA right now to make a road test or is that a bad idea?

And what parts should I be looking for to make the correct steering? Do I look for Wag steering parts, Ford parts, or GM parts?

[j20brett]

use gm 1 ton tie rod ends and you can have a front end shop build you the new drag link.

[Dmntxn77]

1) Yes, you can get away with a DPA only for a while. It will wander like crazy, so dont take it over 50mph or so, and the bump steer will be amazing, so dont take it offroad unless you go REAL slow.

2) If you want it done the best way possible, just get someone to make you a custom tire road and draglink. It is not a big deal, just get some tie rod ends, take the measurements, and have any fab shop cut and tap some tube for you.

3) Or, do like I did (to shorten the tie rod), just cut a section out of the tie rod and sleeve/weld it back together.

4) To help the draglink clear the springs, undo your shortcut of welding a block onto the spring perch. Instead, grind the pumpkin and perch on the other side to match the height of your passenger side perch.

5) And, there is nothing wrong with running spacers and 4" studs, it is real common. Just make sure that you do the math to make sure that you have as many threads into the knuckle as possible. You only need 2 full threads sticking out above the nuts for a safe hold.

[ncjeepers]

If you'll call me, I think I can help you sort it out.
You can follow the link in my sig to get my contact info.

[Crazy_Jeepman]

You would need to get the measurements from hole to hole and have the Tie Rods made up. Similar to this http://www.partsmikeparts.com/tre_kit1.htm Parts Mike can most likely do what you need, but if I were you I would source out something local, if possible, many like to make this steering thing black magic..........when in reality it is not. ;)

[HARDCORE pacer]

I had my custom drag link made at rocky mountain offroad in red deer in total with my x over steer arm it was $500 that included 2 1 ton chevy tie rod ends the jam nuts and the threaded faced DOM pipe cut for my application. Call me I can give you thier #. Any machine shop could make one of these for you just bring them the tie rod ends and they can do the rest.

[Kenall]

What about leaving the tie rod under the pack in the OE position, and just having a new drag link from the PA to the P side knuckle?? does parts mike have a kit for that?

[Dmntxn77]

What about leaving the tie rod under the pack in the OE position, and just having a new drag link from the PA to the P side knuckle?? does parts mike have a kit for that?

You are on the right track for a cross over steering set-up... Where the tie rod would be under the springs, and the drag link would be over the springs... Yes, parts mike should have a kit for that...

My high steer supplier in Colorado will make a custom drag link and tie rod to fit 1 ton TRE's for $150. If you do a search under this topic with my name, you will find his info... He makes parts for Parts Mike... If you cant find it, let me know, and I will look for you...

[ncjeepers]

I can do better...;)

[Dmntxn77]

Hey Woody.... Did you get the steering figured out??

[Crazy_Jeepman]

Hey Woody.... Did you get the steering figured out??

I see he is looking for a source for RH & LH 7/8" 18 pitch taps. I am assuming he is going to make his own. I had a couple sources for them, just can't seem to find them at the moment. :rolleyes:

[Woody Long]

Don't worry about that Dmntxn77. I would like to just get it made for me and not worry about tracking this junk down, but I have little $$$ to spend on this part and it's one of the last things I need to drive it ( I still have other things to get done ). I may have a source for both taps in town here for me to borrow and I get better than dealer cost on parts anyways.

So as it sits I need to get the 22~23" of seamless DOM and bust out the taps to accept the ES2027L and ES2026R, then plop it on the rig, spend some time adjusting and I'm on my way (I hope).


I'll post up some pics of what I've done later.

[Casey]

I see he is looking for a source for RH & LH 7/8" 18 pitch taps. I am assuming he is going to make his own. I had a couple sources for them, just can't seem to find them at the moment. :rolleyes:

Try this...

http://www.e-taps.com/

[Dmntxn77]

Don't worry about that Dmntxn77. I would like to just get it made for me and not worry about tracking this junk down, but I have little $$$ to spend on this part and it's one of the last things I need to drive it ( I still have other things to get done ). I may have a source for both taps in town here for me to borrow and I get better than dealer cost on parts anyways.

So as it sits I need to get the 22~23" of seamless DOM and bust out the taps to accept the ES2027L and ES2026R, then plop it on the rig, spend some time adjusting and I'm on my way (I hope).


I'll post up some pics of what I've done later.

I would think that you could just get the DOM and take it to a machine shop to have it tapped. I couldnt imagine them charging more than a few bucks. It would most likely be cheaper than buying the taps. Keep us updated..


BTW, nice catch Mods... Its is a pointless argument...

[80wag]

I think this post is helpful to me because it helps me get the whole picture of what could and probably will go wrong in an SOA conv. I appreciate the fact that so many knowledgeable people out there give a hoot to help. But then again, yall have been more than helpful with any beginner questions I have and will still have. This forum is priceless.

Mario, Ft.Worth, 80 Wagoneer, project almost ready