6" lift kit alternatives

[FSJeep13]

Its been quite a while since I've posted on here, but I've always thought that I'd buy the 6" BJs kit and now I'm wondering about other ways to lift my rig becuase I can't afford the 730 or whatever plus shipping along with the other things that need to be done.

Instead of 4 new spring packs, couldn't I buy the front 6" leaves and just have 6" rear blocks? I do not care about the ride since its not a daily driver. What about blocks in the front? I remember that being a bad idea... I'm thinking 6" blocks are very large for a block, but If I can do it without sacrificing safety, I'm ready to do this.

I have managed to get my tires already, 35x13.50 boggers (used $200) with these tires I'm also planning on a 3" BL, but I need to get the suspension mods figured out first.

Another idea about the blocks...where would I get a 6" block that fits? Would I most likely have to have somebody fab one? Or if you have any other ideas, throw them my way!!

[JeepNOFEAR]

The cheapest and safest way to get 6" lift is to go with bjs 6" lift. Maybe you can find a used one.

[Tad]

I doubt you'll find too many supporters of 6" blocks, that's just a hell of a long ways up with that much mass on top.
Blocks up front are:
A) a no no
B) counterproductive, you would actually be lowering the rig.

If I really felt I had to run those 35's on a budget I'd just chop the fenders out and go.

[fulsizjeep]

I have seen someone's rig here with no lift and 35s. Maybe more than one, but seen one in Ouray in 02. It worked well and was pretty bad looking. If you don't mind wacking sheet metal it is the cheapest way.
:sawzall:

Ah, here is one that Brent of BJs Offroad has.
http://bjsoffroad.com/images/projwag/side1.jpg

[FSJeep13]

This is what I am thinking...I can get the front springs from BJs. then its the rear blocks that i'm looking for. I will definately consider fender trimming, but I don't know if I'll do it quite to that extent (thanks for the pic fulsizjeep).
ok..
Take for example the link below for the Tuff Country lift for older chevys. ( I used to have a 79 blazer with rear blocks) This is way cheaper, but I'm thinking not all blocks are interchangable and I don't know if there is a difference between a block for a chevy and jeep. I can guess that it may have to do with the type of axle...Any ideas here? Thanks guys.

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/167104.html?mv_pc=froogle

[derf]

Blocks are a bad idea all around. Stay away from them. You will hate life trying to drive a vehicle with 6" blocks. Save up the few extra bucks it takes to get full springs and do it right.

[Tad]

I'll toss this out:
Say you get just the 6" front springs (BJ's, Skyjacker, Used, does not matter overall).
You still have a DPA, brake lines, exhaust and possibly front drive line mod's to deal with to make it right, that tends to be the exception, but it does happen. You are running QT rig so you better make things right up front for sure.
Now you are into the 6" block :eek: in the back.
Brake line and Ebrake cable at the minimum, along with new U-bolts all around (please do not reuse U-bolts).
Opps, now we have all new shocks on top of all this.
I think you see where this is going.
There is a reason a good lift kit is actually cheaper in the long run.
Sure, you can scab stuff together and make it work, nothing wrong with that, I'm a poor guy also, but, it will cost you more to make it right in the long run.

[rustywagoneers_com]

run the rear springs under the frame, but don't pretend that this will be cheap.. it is all expensive... i would pick that setup based on ride, spring wrap, spring rate, and flex. look for a thread about getting a 'stiffey' to flex... see pics...

peace
Dave

[FSJeep13]

run the rear springs under the frame, but don't pretend that this will be cheap.. it is all expensive... i would pick that setup based on ride, spring wrap, spring rate, and flex. look for a thread about getting a 'stiffey' to flex... see pics...

peace
Dave

Dave, I read that whole thread and I really have no idea whats going on. haha. I could understand "shackle flip." Can you explain this idea to me better?

[rustywagoneers_com]

it is similar to a shackle flip, just get 2 pairs of leaf spring / shackle brackets. several manufacturers make them. it is fairly typical to also move the springs closer together at the same time, but it is not absolutely necessary to do that... if you don't move the springs in, then you don't have to replace the perches. there are a dozen other considerations to make before doing any of this stuff, but look for threads (here and elsewhere) about 'inboarding' your springs... and at the same time, you might want to set it up for 63" chevy rears... those, under the rails, with the rear shackle 'flipped' are about as good as it gets with leaf springs... and it can be very very very good.... you are still looking at drivline work, shocks, everything....

peace
Dave

[Kwikrat]

fsjeep13, if you want to see the BJs offroad 6" lift up close, PM me, I have mine on a pallet at work. As soon as I swap out my tranny, i'm going to put it on my 84. The quality is very good for the money.

[Elliott]

I'm thinking that if you can't afford the BJ's lift shipped then you probably can't afford to go with a 6" lift and should prolly try and run a 4". The cheapest way to run a 6" (going front spring over axle/rear shackle inversion) is still going to be expensive after you add in costs of the high steer you will need to add and a long travel/high angle front drive shaft (if you are going to maximize your articulation).
If you run 6" springs you are going to have less flex then if you go with a SOA set up and IMO it's going to cost you more.
If you can get by with using a 3" body lift and 4" spring lift you can prolly pick up some used springs for cheap and snag a 4" drop pitman arm (DPA), add some longer shocks/brake lines/e-brake lines and be done with it for less then $500.-600. Don't know if that will clear enough for you, but then you could take out the saw to get the rest if you don't mind chopping the fenders (may not need the 3" body lift).

BTW, those GM lift blocks will work. They are 4" and are used in combination with an add a leaf to get 6". This set up will increase rear axle wrap and decrease flex over a stock spring/shackle inversion.

[FSJeep13]

Elliot, I've been thinking the same thing, 4" suspension lift with a 3" body lift and if that's not quite enough to fit those tires I can hack the fenders a little. The 6" looks way too stiff.

[FSJeep13]

Alright. How about 4" front springs, 4" rear blocks?...more flex, smaller block in the rear. This sounds better. Then I can get my DPA, extend all brake lines, and get shocks. I know not everybody will support me on the blocks, but this sounds do-able and I don't care about the ride quality. What do you think?

[Elliott]

Sure, you can run it that way easy enough. The first SkyJacker lifts were like that, then just swap in 4" rear springs when you come across some if you decide the axle wrap is a drag. Be sure to use new u-bolts all the way around.