Who put pudding in my master cylinder?

[marcd]

Apparently the PO didn't feel the lid gasket on the master cyl is necessary. As a result, there is a strange brew in my resevoir/lines. I pulls to the right when braking, but I think new lines will fix that. This weekend I plan to do the following:

New brake hoses (not the metal lines)
new shoes
new disks/drums
Likely rebuild calipers/mast cylinder

My questions:
What's good to use to clean the lines/parts?
I don't have access to a compressor, so i can't blow out the lines (might try canned air), ideas on flushing the system?
Do you think rebuilding the calipers and cylinders is needed and is it difficult?

Any info would be appreciated. :confused:

[Tad]

Flush (bleed/mighty vac) the lines with new brake fluid, you'll need about 2-3 quarts.

First get as much of that crud out of the MS as you can so you don't have to flush anymore than necessary. (turkey baster, don't ask where Sally's went).

I don't rebuild any wheel cyl's or calipers any more, too cheap, about $15-20 each.

Rotors and drums should be checked for wear as they would at any service point.

If you are going to replace all that stuff anyway, flush/bleed lines first, and I would replace the MS if I was going that far into it.

[Bobbo]

I agree with Tad, don't rebuild any thing. Parts are cheap. I would first bleed the system and get all new fluid in it, then start replacing parts. That way you wont run any dirty fluid through any new parts. Also if you replace the caliper or wheel cyl on one side its a good idea to just do the other side and be done with it. In my experiances if one side fails, the other is not far behind. This also will make sure that you get even brake pressure on both sides.

[qmichael]

Mine had a lot of junk in the master cylinder . I REMOVED 99% from the master cylinder with a turkey baster, you know they have the rubber bulb on on end( $1-2), as I didn't have a pressure set up.R&R wheel cylinders if they show any sign of leaking same for the front then start to bleed right rear ,left rear, front right , front left . You start with the one that is the farthest from the master cylinder. Also get a 1 foot small tubing from a pet store that will fit over the nipple on the back of the wheel cylinders and put it a cup bleed till you have no air and it runs clean ,you will neet a second body and to refill the master cylinder as you aer doing each wheel

[78 Waggin' Ear]

It is such a chore to have to fight those brake return springs in the back when replacing things i would also go with the new wheel cyl in back as many a time there is corrossion in there and or the plating is worn off and showing the porous cast metal underneath that will wear the new cups. I still have to try my thingee that i made out of alum plate and air pressure fitting to hook up to my air tank w/10# of pressure on it. I'm supposed to put the plate on the top of the MC (a piece of inner tube rubber to seal the plate to the MC) take a C clamp to hd it on there and then put the air tank on there w/ 10-12# of pressure on it to push the fluid thru there when i crack the bleeder with the hose on it and dont let the MC run out of fluid!!!!

[marcd]

Okay, I know it's bad to let the master cylinder run dry. But what is so bad about it? Can't you just bleed the master cylinder the same way you bleed the lines or do you have to remove it and bench bleed it? Just wondering.

And thanks for all the input . . .

[J4GRAND]

Find a smaller muffler/brake shop in your area that power bleeds the brake system. My brakes were like yours when I first got the J4000- the fluid was a black/rusty goop. The power bleeder pushes all the bad stuff out of your system by running copious (copious, that's a pretty big word) amounts of fluid through the lines and out the bleeders. When the fluid runs clear, all is good.