Engine appears to stop, then begin running again...

[Joker's '88 GW]

I was driving my '88 yesterday and today and had the following happen.

I was sitting at a stoplight. The light turned green and I pressed the gas pedal and the truck began to move. No problem.. about 5 seconds later, it was almost as if the engine had died. No power, no nothing for about 3 seconds... then it ran as if nothing was wrong. This is the second time that this has happened in 2 days.

Could this be a coil or ignition module problem? I have recently (Within the last 3 weeks) changed out the plug wires, dist cap and rotor. I used the spark plug conductive lubricant and anti-seize on the plugs.

This is something completely new. I am looking at the ignition modules at Advanced Auto Parts and they want $55.00 for the module. They have one in stock, just wanted to check with the list first to make sure this is the problem.

Thanks,

[Michael]

Joker's-

I do not have a solid answer but mine did something similar. Check out the wiring to the distributor. My lead connector that plugs into the distributor was broken or making a bad connection. I would drive and wham nothing. Like I turned the key off. It is worth looking into. Possible loose connection...Arcing??? Hope this may help. I would check all the wiring from the coil to he distributor and so on for its integrity. Also check all of you ground wires. Possible one is loose and making a bad connection.

[Joker's '88 GW]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Michael:
Joker's-

I do not have a solid answer but mine did something similar. Check out the wiring to the distributor. My lead connector that plugs into the distributor was broken or making a bad connection. I would drive and wham nothing. Like I turned the key off. It is worth looking into. Possible loose connection...Arcing??? Hope this may help. I would check all the wiring from the coil to he distributor and so on for its integrity. Also check all of you ground wires. Possible one is loose and making a bad connection.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Thanks... I will check on the connectors.. How do you like your TFI upgrade? I'm thinking that this may be a good time to upgrade my system also.

Just curious..

[Jim Barbero]

When this happened on mine it was the ignition module.

Hope it helps.

Jim

[Michael]

I would bet it is the module for sure. Because it does not stop running completely. That is only 40-50$ and you will probably need it anyway. I have not replaced mine but I would start for sure on the connections if they check out go to the module.

TFi was a piece of cake. Made my wag much more efficient went. Spent around $100. Big diffrence in the idle and throttle response.

[Joker's '88 GW]

Thanks for all the advice...

I replaced the ignition module and the coil just in case... They were both the original parts...

I haven't had the issue and it almost seems like a better idle. Could be just wishful thinking...

I'll see what happens tomorrow...

[Joker's '88 GW]

So far, the truck is running good. I haven't had any issues like the last 2 days.

Although, my valve train noise is getting louder, I have a feeling that one of the wrist pins is bad, or I have a rod that is just itching to see the outside! The truck drives strong, just makes this annoying loud tapping at idle.

I'm thinking of finding someone that has better ears than I do to listen to this noise and let me know what is going on with it.

Thanks for the advice on the ignition modules..

[Crazy_Jeepman]

Valve train noise on a AMC V8 is almost always caused by a cam going flat. Lobes are wearing off. I have several flat cams laying around and one new one. ;)

[Michael]

Did the noise get louder when you did the ignition stuff. If so I would check you timing now. Could be way off. Does the noise go away once it is warm or does it do it all the time. Try tightening the exhaust manifolds. Maybe they are leaking. It is worth a try. Possibly you need to reset the valve lash. But I would say that if the manifold doesn't do the trick I would pop open the valve covers and see if you have any up and down travel on the push rods. If you do they will need to be adjusted. When they get that loose it could not be a good thing. Especially if on of the rocker arms rotates and the pushrod would love to pop out of there and have fun with your valves.... :eek: Worth looking into...Does not take $$ but time for now.