Welding to cast iron? Questions...

[j20brett]

What should i use to weld cast iron? i.e., would i use use mig or stick? what kind of rod with stick? how hot would i have to heat the cast iron before i welded it? i am asking because i am going to have to weld new spring perches when i do a spring over sometime in the future and i am trying to get all the information that i can. also how hard is it to turn knuckles to correct caster and all that good stuff?

[Nidan]

I would use a stick welder, nickle rod works pretty good. Although on my 74 chero i used a millermatic 210 wire feeder to weld my perches. I have been running them for about a year and they are still holding strong, even on the cast side of the dif. Just my 02.

[4x4fEvEr]

riverbeast had a good article with pictures on exactly what you're asking about. im pretty sure the best and strongest weld was a specialty rod for cast iron used with a stick welder. im sure sombody will chime in with the link

[Bama Burden]

Seems like Tad had a good thread a while back about welding cast iron. He did a sort of experiment where he made a few welds on a differential and then beat the hell out of the link attachments or whatever it was he was attaching to the pumpkin.

edit: oh, maybe it was RB.

[Bama Burden]

Here's an old thread that asks the same question. Tad gives his advice. http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=34990&highlight=welding+cast+iron+differential

[j20brett]

thanks for the info guys. yall dont happen to have the link to where he was talking about welding cast iron, anyone? it would be greatly appreciated! :thumbsup:

[j20brett]

o there it is lol! thanks again! but one more question...ive heard that you have to heat the cast part up to a certain temp before welding. is this needed or what?

[Tad]

http://members.cox.net/tadsal/beatthepig1.JPG

[rockjeep44]

I've never used anything but a Millermatic 210 to weld to cast (no preheat or postheat either) and I never had a break or crack.

[j20brett]

so how hard would it be to turn the knuckles when doing a SOA to correct steering geometry?

[Tad]

What are you doing that requires turning the knuckles for your SOA?
Different axle, rotating pinion up?

Both Big Red and KYJ10 had some info on here (not sure if Big Red's was in this section).

[j20brett]

i was going to rotate the pinion up to make driveshaft angles better and to correct steering. i thought it was needed, thats why i would be doing it. do i need to? how far could i rotate the axle up with out messing up the stereing geomtry too much?

[Tad]

IIRC 2-3* is the max you can go but if you need to maintain stock driveability I wouldn't mess with it (I need that, my Wag will still see freeway use).
Couple of good threads in this section.
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/search.php?searchid=31830

[j20brett]

tadsal,

you dont have any drivetrain vibrations with the spring over and not turning the knuckles?

[Tad]

tadsal,

you dont have any drivetrain vibrations with the spring over and not turning the knuckles?
Not a bit, even at highway speeds, I'm not even running a steering stabilizer and I have bias ply 36x12.5's.
I will add that everything is new up there, brand spanking new, every ball joint, TRE, spring bolt and U-bolt, the leaf spring bushings are about 4 years old, sitting on a mid 70's J20 HD44 that's been trussed and the tubes welded in place. Full hi-steering with a 4" DPA.
I not facing front drive shaft angle problems as the Dodge 208 clocked onto the TH400 moved the front output back about 6", I'm waiting on a bit more funds to finish that off, but it's PT so I see no worries there.

I have not been done long on the wag, about 150 miles on it so far, all on pavement, so I do not want to come off as some expert. BUt as far as drivability, it's dead on the money.

I've sold a lot of perches (maybe 75 sets) and welded up a half dozen myself, some for me, some for others.
The only folks I know that are turning their knuckles are the ones who are rotating their pinions up and changing the stock arrangment.
Some of the Nissan, Yota, Taco, Ranger-BroncoII, CJ, YJ, Scout...blablaba guys might be, but I rarely hear back from them.

[j20brett]

alright well that settles that. im just not going to turn the knuckles. now that i think about it the front shaft isnt even going to be spinning due to the hubs and all. i appreciate all the info. i plan on replacing every balljoint and tie rod end and all when i get the time and money to do the swap. you dont happen to have any pictures of your steering do you?

[Tad]

...you dont happen to have any pictures of your steering do you?
If you read through that link in my sig (it's on FSJN), the "1970 Wagoneer - It's Time" one, you'll see exactly what I went through. A lot of it will not apply or mean much since it's a '70, with the shorter front springs and rear posts.
It's long, with lot's of pic's, but I kept the size down so it would be dialup friendly.
If you need something more specific just let me know.

[j20brett]

thanks for all the info yall. i appreciate it. hopefully in the next few years i can get some money and start workin on the beast!

[KYJ10]

Ive used a 220 mig with no problems. As far as turning knuckles, it's a real pain in the but. Worked out great, just tough to do at home. If you plan on doing it, pm me and I'll get more detailed.