Getting Heads Off

[Hump]

I've got a 360 block, that's been sitting for a while, and I'm trying to tear it apart. I've got it down to the block, heads and reciprocating assembly. I have pulled the rockers, push rods, and all of the head bolts. I have pull, pounded, pryed, and just generally tried really hard to get the heads off the block. I can't even get them to budge. If there is some trick to it, or something else I am missing, please advise!

[Wesdog]

One of the guys on here previously suggested putting a couple of the head bolts back in loosely so the head won't fall off. Then put the spark plugs back in and then turn the rotating assembly to let the compression pop the head loose.

[ June 18, 2003, 07:19 AM: Message edited by: Wesdog ]

[Hammer]

First, you sure you have all the head bolts out? 14 I think.
Second, what I do depending on which motor. But often I have a LONG extension I put down a head bolt hole to use for leverage, then smack the side of the head (usually the intake face) with a lead weighted rubber mallet. No damage is done, and you really want to apply force to this side, as there are dowels in the outer bottom two holes that keep the head aligned. Make sure you don't loose those either ;)

[billyrb]

Rubber mallet, and some patience. Those things weigh a ton, and it takes some serious persuasion to move them. Just make sure you don't get eager and use a screwdriver or anything else to pry between the block and the head.

[rhamby]

The compression trick will work if the valves are sealing well (or at least 1 or 2 cylinders worth), but if the engine is in pretty mucky shape, you may not be able to generate enough compression. Just wanted to add that in case you try it and get frustrated.

I ended up using a mallet and a heavy wood hatchet handle on my J10's motor. I bucked the wood handle (just so I could get some clearance to use the mallet) up against the metal tab on the bottom of the head on the exhaust side, then tapped on it. The problem with this is what ppl. are saying - if you end up hitting it with enough force to free it, and it pops up above the dowels, your toes and the head will become on entity. Regardles how you end up freeing it, use something in the bolt holes that reaches the block (head bolts make thee most sense, screw a couple of them in loose and leave 1/4" gap between the head and the bolt head). Don't be tempted to drive a screwdriver or chisel in between them - I've been frustrated to that point, regardless knowing better!
If it's on an engine stand and you don't want to take it to a shop, I guess you could turn it over and take out the crank and pistons (assuming you could get them freed) then use something like a short 2x2" piece of wood (something not metal) to tap up on the bottom of the head. You'd obviously want to be careful here, but sometimes odd ways work when the 'right' ways won't. This is an iffy strategy at best considering, but it would give the most leverage on freeing the head.

[greasyjeep]

You may want to try threading some twine down one of the cylinders through the sparck plug hole and turn the cylinders over until that one compresses. The head should just lift right up, make sure you put enough twine down there.

You may want to check you have all the bolts out, 14 per side. It is sometimes tought to see them all because of the amazing amount of build up.

[rhamby]

now that's a cool idea.

[dandy]

I just did my 89, I checked the bolts 3 times to make sure they were all out, because the head would not come off the left bank no matter how much I pried.

A friend of mine showed up an hour later took one look and pointed to a bolt in the center of the head, I couldn't believe I missed it.

The engine is back together now and runs great, check the bolts.