would this work for a temporary shaft?

[rampagefsj]

I need to lengthen my rear shaft on my J-4000 and change out the end for a 1350 U joint and I was wondering if this may seem like it would work. I was going to cut the axle end of the stock shaft off and sleeve in another drive shaft that has a 1350 joint on it, make it fit as snug as possible and constantly check if it is straight. Then weld it up with our ARC welder at home. The only rod that we have there is 6011, and a whole lot of it. I know that means that it has a 60,000 lbs. breaking limit. Would that be enough for a shaft that will only be used for getting it from the yard to the garage and moderate wheeling with about 300 HP if I'm not too hard on it? I know that it will probably vibrate no matter how careful I am, but I'm only running it until I can put in a doubler and then I'll get a professionally done shaft which will be maybe a year at the rate that I'm going.
Thanks in advance for any help.

[BRUTUS]

You do know that there is a u-joint out there that you can buy with a 1310 side and a 1350 side right? I guess if you have to lengthen it anyways I think you are on the right path but I would still take it into a driveshaft shop and have them dynamically balance the shaft. Shouldn't be but $10-15 to balance.

Is there a way that you could put an outer sleeve over the two pieces of shaft and redneck it back together? That way you could retain some of the structure inside the sleeve on both sides to keep concentricity. I would also suggest if you are doing this way that you drill holes through the sleeve and plug weld it to the shaft in addition to seam welding the ends.

[robselina]

you'll be fine. I've made most of my driveshaft modifications this way :thumbsup:

[rampagefsj]

Is there a way that you could put an outer sleeve over the two pieces of shaft and redneck it back together? That way you could retain some of the structure inside the sleeve on both sides to keep concentricity. I would also suggest if you are doing this way that you drill holes through the sleeve and plug weld it to the shaft in addition to seam welding the ends.
I'll be sleeving the 1350 end into the stock shaft so wouldn't a sleeve over both of them create too much of a gap on the 1350 end? That's just the way that I see it. Also, I was planning on doing the plug welds (rosette welds, I think) on the stock end.

[Micah Ross]

I had my dshaft lengthened for 60 buck at a local shop here. I cant imagine it costing much more anywhere else.

[rampagefsj]

My brother had a shaft shortened at a local shop for his CJ for $100. For a temporary shaft, I think that's a little much.

[Lane]

all of small machine shops near me will do a drive shaft mod for around $50 and usually the machinist are so self critical about their work the saft would Not need ballancing,,
i made my last temporary shaft extension/mod from a dent scrap piece of exhaust tubing, even it lasted for a while, till the dent turned into a crease and spun itself intwo, also i've used square 11g tubing because it fit the best
- i say go for it using some quality tubing as an outer sleeve, just be sure you're not over welding the Thin wall tubing that most shafts are fashioned from..

[scotty]

if you can keep it straight youll prolly be fine. just try and keep your weld consistant so that you dont create a weld imbalance,and also make sure that the u joints are perfectly parallel to one another,not turned just alittle.

id prolly not do the rosset welds,as it will be harder to make them weight consistant. also might want to consider using as MIG welder,unless youre really good with the arc. its easy to make a consistant,even bead with the mig.

[Lane]

-- imbalance,and also make sure that the u joints are perfectly parallel to one another,not turned just alittle.



yep...
i'd probly make an index mark on the shaft of how the tube was before i cut it, to line it back up with so that you can make sure that you're not going against the original balancing of the shaft by accidentally clocking the yokes 180*