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View Full Version : Closed knuckle inner and outer oil seal replacement-write up


KaiserMan
06-11-2006, 11:07 AM
One of the easiest (and cheapest) routine maintenance procedure that is often neglected is the replacement of the inner oil seal, and the outer felt seal.

After 30+ years of service, the factory seals in your axle are junk. The felt seals on my axle where virtually non-existent, and the inner oil seals had large chunks missing from them.

http://fsjworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/TAR/89668.jpg
As you can see, the felt seal isn't in very good shape. The inner seal is just as bad.

I bought my two kits (one kit does one side) off e-bay for a total of $26 including shipping. Each kit includes one inner oil seal, one felt wipe, and two retaining ring halves. Note, the retaining ring halves do not come painted. I painted mine prior to taking the following picture.

http://fsjworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/TAR/89660.jpg
Contents of one kit.

First, you must first remove the old seals.
To start, remove the 8 bolts that hold the two retaining ring halves to the knuckle. These take a ½” wrench. Once the retaining ring halves have been removed, pull/scrape the old felt seals off the knuckle (you may or may not ahve to make a cut inthe felt seal to remove it over the axle tube). Then pry the old inner oil seal (wear gloves for this part-trust me on this) from the grove it sets into. You must bend the oil seal in order to slip it off of the axle tube. Clean the area in which the seal and felt sit against. Your knuckle will leak once the inner oil seal is removed, so have a coffee can ready.

http://fsjworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/TAR/89661.jpg
The old seals, and retaining ring halves

In order to get the new seals over the axle tube, you must make a horizontal cut on both seals. For the felt seal, make this cut on one of the flat sides. For the inner oil seal, you must make the cut through the rubber visible at the gap in the bonded metal ring. You must install the seals so the cuts are in the 12 o'clock position, or your knuckles will leak.

http://fsjworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/TAR/89664.jpg
Make your cut on one of the flat sides like this

http://fsjworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/TAR/89662.jpg
Make your cut through the rubber at this gap in the metal ring

Bend the inner seal just enough to slip it over the axle tube. I found it easier to seat the bottom first. Once the seal is seated, it will want to pop out at the top (at the cut), don’t worry about this, the retaining rings will push and hold it into place. The metal ring is the inners side of the seal, and goes against the knuckle.

http://fsjworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/TAR/89663.jpg
The new seal ready to be put in place.

Then slide the felt seal over the tube and place the rings over it. Position the rings so the split runs horizontally. Replace the 8 bolts and hand tighten them. Do the other side and you are done. This took me about 20 minutes.

http://fsjworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/TAR/89665.jpg
The new seals and rings bolted in place

Gambler68
06-11-2006, 12:07 PM
Nice, I need to do that on my 68. Good writeup.

H Callaway
06-11-2006, 12:11 PM
Nice, I need to do that on my 68. Good writeup.

I agree, many thanks for the write up. I am getting ready to do this and it is great to see your shots an descriptions.

grimgaunt
06-11-2006, 06:27 PM
what am I looking for on EBAY ? Are these generic parts or specific ?

thx

ps - It might be helpful if you could send a link to the auction (if its there - I believe completed auctions stick around for 30 days or so)

KaiserMan
06-11-2006, 07:14 PM
Just type in "closed knuckle". They will come up. The seller sells them as one lot of two kits. They will fit any closed knuckle Jeep axle. I.E. Dana 25, Dana 27, Dana 30 and the Dana 44.

oldsixinarow
06-11-2006, 07:43 PM
I agree...nice write-up Thom. Now I have to do it on my truck...the driver's side is leaking a bit. Unless, of course, you just want to take a ride down and do it for me:D

KaiserMan
06-11-2006, 07:53 PM
Don't temp me! I do want to see your truck in person. And there isn't a much better way to spend time then wrenching on a FSJ!

BTW, did you see my axle swap thread? They are finally in!

J20 Good Humor
06-11-2006, 08:48 PM
Thanks for the nice pictures and a great write up.
This will go in my file. :)

oldsixinarow
06-12-2006, 08:48 AM
OK, so I searched for these seals and the only kit that comes up has parts that look similar, but are different, than the ones you pictured. At the risk of starting a stampede to this vendor's door, can you give us the link to the parts you bought? Awesome. And remember, the more helpful you are, the more likely you are to actually get the pleasure of putting them in too:D:D:D:D:D

KaiserMan
06-12-2006, 08:53 AM
I just check and the seller doens't have any up right now. Here is a link to the sellers "other items" page. Just keep checking. He had about 6 kits listed, and he most likely has more.

http://search.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQsassZjeepzzzz8linQQhtZ-1

H Callaway
01-11-2007, 02:00 PM
What mixture did you use to refill the axle knuckles? This is off the NOVAK web page.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/steering_knuckle_repair.htm
Lubrication
Use of the proper lubricant for the steering knuckle bearings is very important. The lubrication section of the Jeep Service Manual (http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/manuals.htm) specifies Universal Joint Lubricant #0 for winter and #1 for summer. This material is a semi-liquid grease. Unfortunately, this semi-liquid grease has not been available for some time. An acceptable substitute can be made by mixing chassis lube grease with SAE 140 gear lube until you have the consistency of cold molasses. A half pint of this should be pumped into each knuckle housing with a grease gun. A putty knife can be used to load it into the grease gun. Any lubricant thinner than that described above will leak from the knuckle seal. It will also work its way out into the hub area and contaminate the brake shoes. DO NOT use SAE 90 or 140 gear lube by itself as it is not the proper lubricant.

joe
01-11-2007, 02:24 PM
What mixture did you use to refill the axle knuckles? .
I've owned more closed knuckle 4x4's than open and I've always just used conventional non-exotic non-fancy additive plain ol' u-joint grease in mine and never had a prob. Once the axle joint spins a bit it thins the grease just fine even in winter and yes Noak is right if you use gear lube the joints will pee all over themselves. BTDT but only once.
Don't by just one grease cartridge either, buy a few...the bells hold a lot.

KaiserMan
01-11-2007, 03:02 PM
I've read that straight grease, and even "knuckle pudding" may not lubricate the king pin bearings properly, so I used 600wt gear oil.
I've checked for leaks, and so far everything is nice and dry. 600wt is some thick ****.

fulsizjeep
01-11-2007, 04:42 PM
I know we will need to do this on the Camper Special. It has a HD 44 which I believe is only different than standard 44 in the outer axels and hub assembly for 8 lug wheels. Does this sound right? So, this kit will work for a HD44? Anyone know? Thanks!

KaiserMan
01-11-2007, 05:08 PM
Flint, that seal replacement is done on a D44HD from a 68 or 69 Camper truck.

Only differances on the c/k 44HD is the wheel hub, locking hub, brakes, outer bearing lock nut, maybe the outer wheel bearing. It's the same size as the inner, where most are smaller. I don't remember if my 5 lug D44 is the same way.

68wagoneer
01-11-2007, 06:29 PM
I changed out mine sometime back, it was a pretty easy job, and they were leaking bad. I asked the forum at the time about what to put back in for lube and everyone replied gear oil which is what I used. I did a post search but then realized I had a different handle back then and don't remember what that was. Doesn't leak and have had no seepage into the drum. I think maybe that the old grease in there mixed with the new gear oil and made the proper consistency. Let's hope so. I plan to check that out here soon. Levels have been good since the seal change.
Mike Hopkins

68wagoneer
01-11-2007, 06:36 PM
Oh yeah, good write up Kaiserman and thanks H callaway for the lube info.
Also I think I got the seal kits from Tellico 4x4, they were Omix-ada I believe. Don't remember how much but it was reasonable.
Mike Hopkins

Elliott
01-12-2007, 06:13 AM
Just to add a little, NAPA sells a neoprene replacement for the felt seal. They aren't cheap though.

Lindel
01-12-2007, 06:50 AM
Excellent write up, Thomas!

Tad
01-12-2007, 07:04 AM
Like -joe and some others here I have had more than my fair share of closed knuckle axles over the years ;)
Way back when the folks here at Willys Works told me to just make my own lube.
One part bearing greese with one part gear oil, mix it up into a nice soup.
It's messy, but I never had any problem with that combination.