can u do this or is it wishful thinking to get more flex?

[4x4fEvEr]

i had an idea lookin at my jeep all flexed up and stuff on a pile of dirt. while i checked it out on the side that drooped i seen that the shackle laid down on the shackle mount. now could you for instance where the shackle lays down cut that piece of metal away and welded up the open corners to strengthen it back up and in return get just a little more flex or am i silly???

[Stuka]

Sounds like your shackle angle is wrong, or you ned a longer shackle.

[4x4fEvEr]

it couldnt be wrong could it? its all factory except the 6" lift from bj's . it just lays down when its completely flexed out.

[Micah Ross]

I have the same lift and I had to get new shackles for the front of mine as the stockers are to short by at least an inch. I went to the local yard and got the rears out of a 199x suburban. They are about 1.5 inches longer and fit perfect and now the shackles dont "bottom out" when I get in a flexed out position.

[BRUTUS]

If you were to open the metal in the hanger so that it would flex more... I would worry about the shackle binding the wrong way... where when you put weight back on the spring the shackle is now pinned into the pocket that you just cut out. At some point if you hit a bump or something the shackle would unload and spin up? Just something to consider.

[4x4fEvEr]

the shackle is in the up position as is right? . i just wanted to cut out the little maybe 1" lip of metal on the front of the rear shackle hanger. no more than that, just so my shackle could lay down more when flexed out. i think i need to take some pics and learn to speak more clearly first. im confusing myself

[AlsChopShop]

pictures are worth a thousand words. ;)

Al

[BRUTUS]

the shackle is in the up position as is right? . i just wanted to cut out the little maybe 1" lip of metal on the front of the rear shackle hanger. no more than that, just so my shackle could lay down more when flexed out. i think i need to take some pics and learn to speak more clearly first. im confusing myself

I know what you are saying... I just wanted to make sure that you know that when you flex out the shackle does not pass to the other side of the spring.

The best way I can think to describe it is to imagine a line extending through both shackle bolts toward the ground... at full flex, you don't want the line to go to the ground on the outside of the spring. You do want the line to go to the ground through the inside (concave side) of the spring.

I am pretty sure this is why the material is in the hanger to begin with. Of course the engineers in Toledo would build in a safety factor so that the shackle doesn't come close to reversing. What you are wanting to do is deteriorate the safety factor of the hanger as it was initially designed.

[Brad W.]

sounds to me like you are asking to flip a shackle or break a mount. you'll have all kinds of strange binding issues if that shackle goes past "bottomed out" like it is curently, just get some longer shackles. BJs has some custom ones, the nice skyjacker ones for XJ's work too, as to the stock removals from 199x suburbans, etc.

[4x4fEvEr]

what im thinkin about doin could in no way flip a shackle or break it seeing as how i would weld the openings for water drainage back up. longer shackles in the back equals less lift. no reason for me to want less lift

[Micah Ross]

I think the metal you are talking about is for stuctural support and removing it will cause the mount to bend. I say just flip it over and be done with it.

[4x4fEvEr]

yeah it is for support which is y i planned to weld it back up on the bottom. a shackle flip plus my 6" lift would be a little excessive i think

[Brad W.]

ahh, i think i understand better what you are going for... if you were careful to brace it right on the bottom, it might work, but i'd still be a little leary of it.

[4x4fEvEr]

i think it could work. imma ramp that thing up and see exactly what my max out is and if lower bumpstops makes a difference. hell if it doesnt work i can always weld a new piece back in. i still need to get pics up for a visual reference. im bad with words

[Stuka]

Ahh, I was thinking SOA. With the 6" springs, this happens because they are way longer. If you cut that part of the hanger, there is a very good chance the shackle will go to far back and basically get caught in that position. I would advise a bump stop, as I dont see you getting any more compression out of that with that style hanger. If you want more flex, look into finding stock springs and going with a shackle flip. You will get a little bit more lift, but you will gain a lot of flex.

[4x4fEvEr]

id do that stuka but i just dumped my wad on the 6" lift. it seems to do well so far, maybe i should get my jeep out on the trail first and see what it actually does. been sittin since november and im still not ready to go wheelin

[Stuka]

I am thinking you will be fine. Maxing it on a ramp is one thing, being on the trail is another. Chances are you wont always need that kind of flex. If it tursn out you are fine, I would add a bump stop just to keep the shackle from banging into the spring hanger.

[4x4fEvEr]

yeah bumpstops are def on my list

[scotty]

I am thinking you will be fine. Maxing it on a ramp is one thing, being on the trail is another.

well said.. IMO people worry way too much about flec and how far they can drive up the ramp. if youve got the rear locked up,you can prolly drive to the top of the ramp even if one of your rear tires is dangling inthe air ;)

i run the stock springs and shackle setup in the rear and ive never worried about it. maybe i cant max a 30* ramp,but my junk goes good in the woods :D

[4x4fEvEr]

well by ramp i meant a pile of dirt, i dont care what numbers i could get on a ramp either but as of right now it doesnt seem to flex all that great and was just lookin for a cheap upgrade. i probably will never end up doin it and im locked front and rear so i dont see too many things on the trail stopping me

[HeepofaJeep]

pictures are worth a thousand words. ;)

Al

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[Lane]

what im thinkin about doin could in no way flip a shackle or break it seeing as how i would weld the openings for water drainage back up. longer shackles in the back equals less lift. no reason for me to want less lift

as mentioned why not just do a shackle flip (sawzall off the whole brackets flush with the frame, then reweld them up-side down)

-- then Longer shackles will mean more flex and more lift..

[Stuka]

You know I was just thinking, you can do a shackle flip with the 6" springs. Cut the mount off, flip it up side down, and then weld it on so the spring eye is in the same place. The mount would be above the frame, so it would take some custom brackets, but it would be the best of both worlds.

[scotty]

i personally like my upward facing shackels in my jeep,since the rear springs are so long.if i drive off somethin real steep,then the rear is sliding on the frame rails if it drags,and not slamming down onto the shackles :eek:

my scout has downward point rear shackles, but the springs are alot shorter in the rear,and the suspension lift is greater,both of wich make the departure angle alittle better in it than in the jeep...

[4x4fEvEr]

You know I was just thinking, you can do a shackle flip with the 6" springs. Cut the mount off, flip it up side down, and then weld it on so the spring eye is in the same place. The mount would be above the frame, so it would take some custom brackets, but it would be the best of both worlds.


so i could just mount it up higher to keep myself at a 6" lift? that sounds like an idea and then with it bein higher it would still be outta they way.

right now my jeep has 1.5" rake to the front so i gotta be raisin the front to get level. i dont even have my heavy *** winch and front bumper on yet.