More pics

[KYJ10]

I have 4 seperate picture post, so make sure to see them all!

These are all the front 3.5" 1410 long travel shaft. Has about 8" of spline.

Closeup of the 1410 joint at the dana 60 pinion. http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/KYJ10/front1410closeup.JPG

1410 joint and yoke at tcase. http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/KYJ10/front1410jointandyoke.JPG
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/KYJ10/front3.5inchshaft.JPG
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/KYJ10/front3.5inchshaft2.JPG
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/KYJ10/frontshaft3.JPG

A shot at the long spline front joint at the case. http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/KYJ10/longspline1410front.JPG

[ October 13, 2003, 03:31 PM: Message edited by: KYJ10 ]

[shadowjeep]

hey kyj10, is that driveshaft a little close to the tranny brace, is it gonna hit during flex?(last pic)

[ October 13, 2003, 10:08 AM: Message edited by: Rick ]

[orangecherokee]

mmmmmmmmm beefy

[dnixon]

GOT BEEF.. nice work! Thats some pretty biachin' stuff..
RICK: I don't think it will hit from the looks of it that was Andrews old Crossmember. I think it will work. I think he only has to worry about drop probably not going to get much side to side movement the only place I can see a potential problem.

Hey KY did you remove some leaf's from that 44044 pack? Those look to be pretty flat. Much better then your original front springs!
If you didn't remove a leaf how did you even out the back to make up for the 2.5" lift in the front?

[Stuka]

The side of the shaft wont move very much, so hes fine there. I was wondering more about the front shaft hitting his exhaust (it does on my J10)

[orangecherokee]

once i went back and looked, did you weld the crossmember to the case??

[KYJ10]

It is kinda a bad angle, it does'nt come close to hitting. No I ddin't take any leafs out. And I used RB's kit, and chevy 1/2 ton springs in the rear. I may sit alittle higher in the back, but have no weight back there. It is Andrews CM, and it is actually welded to a plate that bolts to the adaptor. I couldn't use the hard mount he used cause the T18/208 setup must line up different than his setup. If I need to remove the CM, the adaptor plate needs to come off. It actually sits farther back than the original. And even at full droop on that side, it's still has plenty of room. Just kind of an illusion there. I plan on running some solid motor mounts also with this setup. Dennis

[KYJ10]

And Stuka, as you can see, the Y pipe is 2.5" and the shaft is 3.5". The Y pipe looks tiny. It's kind of a bad angle also, as it doesn't get near hitting the Y. With my old negative arched springs, the 1410 yoke bearly scraped the Y one time, but with the lighter front, and 44044's, I think I gained about 3", so am fine now. Dennis

[KYJ10]

Here is a better view of that CM and the clearance it has. Be fore I bolted up the front of the shaft, I rotated the shaft to check the CM clearance, and even with the joint maxed out, it still had like 1/2".
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/KYJ10/Closerviewofcrossmember.JPG

[Will Morris]

Looks good, now I just have to save up my money so that I can build some shafts like that for my Chief. Oh yeah, have to build that doubler first.

Will

[KYJ10]

People say you need a CV for the road, but I havent noticed any vibes at 50 MPH. And less complicated. And if its a dedicated wheeler, then it great, cause it cost me for 2 what one 1410 cv would cost.

[rockjeep44]

Glad to see that crossmember worked out. Looks good man.
-Andrew