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View Full Version : Best Locker For A D44???


Knucklehead
02-06-2005, 04:09 AM
I know this has been gone over before, but I'd to do it again.

I want to go 35s on my chero and need at least one locker in it, as well.

I've heard a lot about the Detroit stuff (true-trac, luch box, etc.). Ausie, lok-rite, etc.

What do you all run, like, recomend? Why?

yeep74
02-06-2005, 04:11 AM
front or rear?

paddyp
02-06-2005, 04:18 AM
If you are going 35s on D44 axles, I would stick with either a full Detroit or a selectable (ARB or Detroit Electrac if you see a lot of snow and ice.) The lunchbox lockers (Lock -Rite, Detroit EZ locker, Aussie) are not recommended for tires over 33". Some people have had luck with lunchbox lockers and 35s, but I prefer to err on the side of caution.

yeep74
02-06-2005, 04:26 AM
Rear= spool good on ice and snow because its predictable. Stronger and Easier on the wallet!!!!!!!

Front= mainly offroad=spool or full carrier locker(detroit ect), Lots of onroad=selectable locker.

Knucklehead
02-06-2005, 04:31 AM
I've heard that the Ausie is the strongest of the "lunch box" bunch. Is this true? Otherwise I lean towards a detroit "full" locker.

Yeep, I would spool it or weld it if it were not a daily driver.

What about spool in the front and running one wheel hub locked...sort of like an open diff?

[ February 06, 2005, 12:35 PM: Message edited by: Knucklehead ]

rockcandy
02-06-2005, 05:35 AM
I have used a full detroit, detroit ez-locker(lunchbox), and a lock-rite before. I liked all of them, but never used the lunchbox lockers with tires over 32" tall. I will be going with another full detroit locker or ARB with my 60 I am building.

yeep74
02-06-2005, 10:31 AM
I ran a welded rear in my DD for two years. It isn't nearly as bad as some of the hype. I liked a welded rear more then a detriot because if you accelerate it will load and unload causing a rough ride. I would not run a detroit in the rear if you want onroad manners. Plus on the ice this loading unloading will cause you to spin out even on not so sharp corners. Spools are the way to go in the rear because they are predictable. Unless you are willing to fork it over for a ARB air locker or electrac.

What about spool in the front and running one wheel hub locked...sort of like an open diff?
It works but it tends to pull just a bit to the side with the hub locked. So in a sence you have to hold yer truck on the road. Its not super bad but still annoying. Plus I hate locking hubs! In the front its all detriot or arb territory, mainly arb because of front end chatter by the full locker.

Lunchbox lockers are for small tires. They don't last very long. I've seen tons of broken ones too many for my comfort.

Hope that helps
B

gwinn
02-06-2005, 10:54 AM
I'd recommend the Detoit locker on the rear as the least expensive route to take. If you have the extra money to go with an ARB or other selectable type locker. I wouldn't use a spool or Lincoln lock anything unless I was trailering the rig in to wherever I'm running offroad. On the front a lincoln or spool or even Detroit would be a mistake. Either go with a limited slip or an ARB.

FSJeeper
02-06-2005, 11:08 AM
Originally posted by gwinn:
I'd recommend the Detoit locker on the rear as the least expensive route to take. If you have the extra money to go with an ARB or other selectable type locker. I wouldn't use a spool or Lincoln lock anything unless I was trailering the rig in to wherever I'm running offroad. On the front a lincoln or spool or even Detroit would be a mistake. Either go with a limited slip or an ARB.I think any kind of full locker/spool is a mistake in a Dana 44 with 35's. Better a tight posi like a pre loaded powerlock. At least it will let loose before the R&P would. If he is into serious 4x4, he is going to break that 44. However, if he must lock it up, I would say full spool. At least he wouldn't have the banging on his R&P.

gwinn
02-06-2005, 11:46 AM
Originally posted by FSJeeper:
...At least he wouldn't have the banging on his R&P.I haven't opened my differential cover since installing the detroit in my rear D44 3 years ago. I know the banging has been there since then, but no louder nor more often. I'm not convinced that the r&p have sustained any damage although I have only been running on 33's. That is a good argument against the detroit. The ARB would only hammer on command which is nowhere near as often as a Detroit. There would be much less banging to possibly damage the r&p. It's also a good reason to get a better quality r&p to start with.

FSJeeper
02-06-2005, 11:55 AM
Originally posted by gwinn:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by FSJeeper:
...At least he wouldn't have the banging on his R&P.I haven't opened my differential cover since installing the detroit in my rear D44 3 years ago. I know the banging has been there since then, but no louder nor more often. I'm not convinced that the r&p have sustained any damage although I have only been running on 33's. That is a good argument against the detroit. The ARB would only hammer on command which is nowhere near as often as a Detroit. There would be much less banging to possibly damage the r&p. It's also a good reason to get a better quality r&p to start with.</font>[/QUOTE]Gwinn, agreed, but thinking logically, why would you put almost $1000 into a rear Dana 44 for a selectable when you could convert to 14 bolt, D60/D70 with a full locker for less?

Anyway, selectable locker is optimum, but why spend the money on something that is going to sooner or later break?

gwinn
02-06-2005, 12:07 PM
Originally posted by FSJeeper:
...why would you put almost $1000 into a rear Dana 44 for a selectable when you could convert to 14 bolt, D60/D70 with a full locker for less?

Anyway, selectable locker is optimum, but why spend the money on something that is going to sooner or later break?True, I wouldn't sink another penny into another rear D44. I wouldn't have any confidence in this D44 with tires taller than 33's on difficult offroad terrain.

[ February 06, 2005, 07:08 PM: Message edited by: gwinn ]

Knucklehead
02-06-2005, 12:22 PM
Originally posted by FSJeeper:
Anyway, selectable locker is optimum, but why spend the money on something that is going to sooner or later break?[/QB]This is the "Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley or get off the pot" line and I agree. Problem is that I do not want to increase the WMS to WMS width on the narrow cherokee. And, to narrow the 14 bolt would be expensive and create another whole host of problems (inbording springs, etc. to clear the back of the hubs/backing plate flange). I am willing to put a little $$ into the 44 to make it live.

I promise to be light on the skinny peddle. :D

FSJeeper
02-06-2005, 12:27 PM
Get a Dodge truck Dana 60/70. They bolt in.

Knucklehead
02-06-2005, 12:34 PM
Originally posted by FSJeeper:
Get a Dodge truck Dana 60/70. They bolt in.What is the wms to wms on that?

FSJeeper
02-06-2005, 12:38 PM
Originally posted by Knucklehead:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by FSJeeper:
Get a Dodge truck Dana 60/70. They bolt in.What is the wms to wms on that?</font>[/QUOTE]Just went out in the dark and measured, about 67".

Knucklehead
02-06-2005, 12:44 PM
Originally posted by FSJeeper:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Knucklehead:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by FSJeeper:
Get a Dodge truck Dana 60/70. They bolt in.What is the wms to wms on that?</font>[/QUOTE]Just went out in the dark and measured, about 67".</font>[/QUOTE]Thanks man.

That is the problem--to wide. I want to keep the wheeels under the jeep and it is a narrow track. There-in lyes the rub.

FSJeeper
02-06-2005, 12:50 PM
Originally posted by Knucklehead:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by FSJeeper:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Knucklehead:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by FSJeeper:
Get a Dodge truck Dana 60/70. They bolt in.What is the wms to wms on that?</font>[/QUOTE]Just went out in the dark and measured, about 67".</font>[/QUOTE]Thanks man.

That is the problem--to wide. I want to keep the wheeels under the jeep and it is a narrow track. There-in lyes the rub.</font>[/QUOTE]You are a Harley man, Get the fricken sawsall out!

Knucklehead
02-06-2005, 12:59 PM
Originally posted by FSJeeper:
You are a Harley man, Get the fricken sawsall out![/QB]Harleys and sawzalls...the horror. Use a torch, a BFH, steel toed boots and a bad temper. :D Actually you got to be pretty carefull with them bikes.

seriously though. I don't want to increase the track width of this one. Got a lot of trees and tight spots where I go, out here, and need to stay
narrow

robselina
02-06-2005, 01:25 PM
Originally posted by yeep74:
Rear= spool good on ice and snow because its predictable. Stronger and Easier on the wallet!!!!!!!

Front= mainly offroad=spool or full carrier locker(detroit ect), Lots of onroad=selectable locker.well, we agree in the rear, but for a rig with hubs, no reason not to spool the front IMO unless you want the turning radius off road. No real benefit to a selectable on-road on a part time rig...

yeep74
02-06-2005, 01:59 PM
Hey randy ring-pinion carries shorter shafts Instead of like 36" they make them as small as 28" I beleive narrowing shouldn't be a huge deal on a d60 is I were you this IS the exact route I would take!

yeep74
02-06-2005, 02:00 PM
Originally posted by robselina:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by yeep74:
Rear= spool good on ice and snow because its predictable. Stronger and Easier on the wallet!!!!!!!

Front= mainly offroad=spool or full carrier locker(detroit ect), Lots of onroad=selectable locker.well, we agree in the rear, but for a rig with hubs, no reason not to spool the front IMO unless you want the turning radius off road. No real benefit to a selectable on-road on a part time rig...</font>[/QUOTE]I was assuyming it was a fulltime rig

Knucklehead
02-06-2005, 02:17 PM
No it's not a full time/Q-trac. It is a t-18/d20. Sorry, forgot to mention this. I like that 6.32:1 1rst gear to much to not have it.

Damage, Inc.
02-06-2005, 02:22 PM
BAH....I've thought about this so much my head hurts. You can go Detroit or Aussie and have a LOCKER. Or, save up your $$$ and go ARB.

I've thought about this so much there really is NO choice to make. All the BS of how great the silent ones are is a joke. Selectable is the only way to go.

Would you have a 'silent' 4WD...I have it on my 2K Expedition and I *HATE* it. ;)

scotty
02-06-2005, 11:22 PM
Originally posted by Knucklehead:
Problem is that I do not want to increase the WMS to WMS width on the narrow cherokee. And, to narrow the 14 bolt would be expensive and create another whole host of problems (inbording springs, etc. to clear the back of the hubs/backing plate flange). the axle youre looking for is called a "cab and chassis 14 bolt" smile.gif wms is 63.5 inches and if you really want to run drums,they shold fit without inboarding the springs on a wag/chero(it fits in a full size chevy,where the springs are close to the same distance apart)

like the guys say,it just depends on how you wheel and how hard on things you are. i can tell you i broke my rear 44 plenty of times with 38s,and a t18/spicer 18 transfer case- one axlesahft,spider gears several times,bent the crap out of the housing-and this is only with a 258 :eek:

like everyone says,you will get used to the road manners of a detroit. i however,would not want to. id rather run a spool in my DD,as was mentioned it is alot more predictable.

if you dont like that idea, id reccomend a detroit up front,since youll never know its there when you unlock the hubs. youll be surprised the places you can go with with an open rear/locked front. leave the rear open,or run a limited slip if you want something back there. the BEST limited slip IMO is tractech's "trutrac". its a gear driven lsd,so it uses no special oil,youll never know its there in the corners,and some brake pedal tapping will cause both wheels to get some power, even if one is off the ground. i used to run one in my front 44 and i loved it. you can prolly find a used trutrac or powerlok fairly easy for the higher gears(2.73 to 3.73). i would however,avoid the trac lock(trash lock as we affectionately call them) as they are junk. better off with an open diff over the trash lock.

just remember,the key to a front locker is the ability to shift into 2wd easily. i run a lunchbox detroit up front,and it steers just fine in rear wheel drive on the trails.i have a twinstick setup on my dana 20 and i love it. traction when i need it,with the ability to steer.

i would not reccomend a welded front. been there and done that. while i loved the traction,the jumpig in/out constantly to lock/unlock a hub gets old fast,and it never unlocks like a real locker does. only way to run a welded front is to also run a ram assist,wich is alot harder on things like u joints,steering linkage and axlesahfts.

my $.02 smile.gif

fulmetal
02-07-2005, 12:05 AM
Go with the Detriot you will not regret it!!
Had mind for 9-yrs and no problems. You will learn to live with the street manners. They are not that bad, less than a spool. Full detriot in the front and a "lunck box" locker in the front with lockable hubs.

Knucklehead
02-07-2005, 08:24 AM
Any more ideas???