Got the Aussie locker in. Now I am locked front and back

[will e]

And I am pretty darn excited about it too. Took longer than the directions said but about as long as I figured it would. I am not 100% done, I stripped a bolt and also busted the tie rod (the bold just turns). So I have just a little more to button up but it is, for all practical purposes, in.

Big thanks to IFSJA and AZFSJC member Jerry for showing up just at the right time to help me yank the carrier out, install the locker and get it back in.

I cannot wait to see the difference. I remember how suprised I was with the rear locker.

[ April 09, 2005, 07:02 PM: Message edited by: will e ]

[Tad]

Sorry I could not make the trip up.
Would have been a good learning experience for me.
So , you are locked at both ends now?

[will e]

Yep, locked front and rear now. I went lunch box locker in the front. I just couldn't justify the expense of another ARB on an axle that doesn't see many miles on it.

This cost about 300 after picking up oil and stuff.

I know it won't be twice the difference as the rear locker was but I am looking forward to see how much different it performs.

[Stuka]

It should be a 25% inprovement (going from 3wd to true 4wd) I assume you have manual locking hubs since you have an NP208, if you do you can drive with one front hub unlocked and have 3wd and still be able to turn without any problems. Although it will put a bit more stress on the locker and that axle shaft, but it comes in handy.

[will e]

Stuka
It is supposed to automatically 'unlock' when I turn. According to the marketing material it will allow a wheel to spin faster but not slower than it should. We will see. Otherwise I am going to do just as you suggest. I can then lock the other hub if I am in a 'difficult' situation. S

[viscacha]

Way to go will e. A front locker is going to make a very nice difference. :cool:

[Stuka]

It works fine that way in the rear axle, but wont always work correctly in the front. Although I havent seen how an aussie reactes up front. Just detroits mainly.

[fulsizjeep]

Good on Ya Mike! Let us know how that works for ya next weekend! :cool:

[rockcandy]

Did you actualy break your tie rod? You have to put a good amount of force on the tie-rod ends to not have them spin while tightening.

[scotty]

the trick to having a front locker is having a twin stick transfer case. when i have my rig in 4wd,the EZlocker(basically same thing as your aussie) does NOT unlock.it may as well be welded up front when in 4wd.

however,i shift the front into neutral,and it unlocks and clicks just like its spossed to,when cruising in 2wd.steering is fine and youd never know its there

works great with my driving style,as i like to shift the front in and out alot anyway.

the traction difference is quite noticeable between it and the true trac that i replaced with it-i love it!

[paddyp]

Like Scotty said, my buddy has a Samurai with a Lock-Rite in the front, and it DOES NOT unlock when in 4WD.

[will e]

Originally posted by paddyp:
Like Scotty said, my buddy has a Samurai with a Lock-Rite in the front, and it DOES NOT unlock when in 4WD.Yep, we shall see. If it gives me problems I will just unlock one the hubs 'most' of the time. If I hate it I will save up some cash and replace it with an ARB. I am going wheeling next weekend and will let you know how it works out.

[will e]

Originally posted by rockcandy:
Did you actualy break your tie rod? You have to put a good amount of force on the tie-rod ends to not have them spin while tightening.You are probably right. I was talking to Jerry and he said I may have messed up the threads while trying to get it out. :eek:

I am gonna tap/die them this mornign and give it another shot.

[paddyp]

Originally posted by will e:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by paddyp:
Like Scotty said, my buddy has a Samurai with a Lock-Rite in the front, and it DOES NOT unlock when in 4WD.Yep, we shall see. If it gives me problems I will just unlock one the hubs 'most' of the time. If I hate it I will save up some cash and replace it with an ARB. I am going wheeling next weekend and will let you know how it works out.</font>[/QUOTE]Don't get me wrong, he loves the traction he gets from it, just sometimes steering in tight spots can be tricky.

[will e]

Originally posted by paddyp:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by will e:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by paddyp:
Like Scotty said, my buddy has a Samurai with a Lock-Rite in the front, and it DOES NOT unlock when in 4WD.Yep, we shall see. If it gives me problems I will just unlock one the hubs 'most' of the time. If I hate it I will save up some cash and replace it with an ARB. I am going wheeling next weekend and will let you know how it works out.</font>[/QUOTE]Don't get me wrong, he loves the traction he gets from it, just sometimes steering in tight spots can be tricky.</font>[/QUOTE]I didn't take it wrong. smile.gif I have the same concerns. I will do some experimenting next week (tight turns in non-tight areas, etc) and see how it works out.

[FullsizeWagon]

How do you like the ARB in your M20? I have been debating a selctable or an aussie for the rear of my waggy. Any strength issues with 31"-33" tires and locking the rear M20?

[Stuka]

The M23 in the back of your wag is fine for 33" tires, it doesnt have the problems the CJ M20 has. I definately wouldent run tires larger then 33" with a lunch box locker though.

[will e]

Originally posted by FullsizeWagon:
How do you like the ARB in your M20? I have been debating a selctable or an aussie for the rear of my waggy. Any strength issues with 31"-33" tires and locking the rear M20?It's great. One of the best mod's I ever did. I agree with Stuka, don't go over 33" and you will be fine. I have beat on it pretty good (but not abused) with my 31" tires and have had no problems. I would have done ARB in the front too but the $$$ just was too much. I figured I would try the lunch box. See how it works for additional wheeling ability. If I don't like how the automatic part works then I will bite the bullet and get an ARB. (Let's see, the blood doner place will give me .....)

[ April 10, 2005, 06:21 PM: Message edited by: will e ]

[Tad]

Originally posted by will e:
... (Let's see, the blood doner place will give me .....) I have a friend of a friend of a friend, that will give you $1 more per pint ;) J/K
Sounds like a great weekend.
Can you explain the broken tie rod a bit more?
I didn't grasp what happened, I might have one here from an 85GW, not sure, have to look (I know I sent the drag link to GlennTx last year)
Thanks,
Tad

[will e]

the 'broken' tie rod was the driver side. I had to unbolt it and then get it out to allow room for the carrier to get out of the axle. Basically, the bolt for the tie rod just spins. This morning I put tried again and put one foot on the hub and pushed to put pressure on the bolt. I was able to tighen it down at that point.

[HeepofaJeep]

Friend has an aussie in the front of his cherokee. It is a 96, so there is no locking hubs or vaccuum disconnect (permanently locked in). It turns just fine.

[will e]

Originally posted by HeepofaJeep:
Friend has an aussie in the front of his cherokee. It is a 96, so there is no locking hubs or vaccuum disconnect (permanently locked in). It turns just fine.Good to hear. I will give everyone my best and honest opinion. I might get some video of it in action too.

[scotty]

one trick for getting the nut tightened down on stubborn tie rod ends is to put pressure on it some how. when it enters the knuckle from the bottom,you can put a jack under it,when its up top,you might try a second set of hands to pull on it as you work the impact gun. or maybe hang a bunch of weight on it somehow. ;) you can also pound on it and try and get it "stuck" in the bore like it is when you run down the nut.

if you beat on the threads to remove it,then it is prolly FUBAR and will need replaced,or the threads re-cut :(

[ April 11, 2005, 06:18 AM: Message edited by: scotty ]

[HARDCORE pacer]

What spec did you get for shaft to axle gear and how did you measure it I am a little unclear on what to measure or even where to measure it?

[Stuka]

AMC Crazy: what do you mean?

[will e]

Originally posted by Stuka:
AMC Crazy: what do you mean?I second that!

[HARDCORE pacer]

On the back of the aussie install booklet they want some measurements written down the only one I cant figure out is the one I Qed about. With out these measurements there is no warranty.

[HARDCORE pacer]

I just recieved the updated install manual in digital form and it spells out this better. The measurement they are looking for on the back of the cover stated"shaft to axle gear" is actually pinion shaft to spacer. That could be worded way better. Anyway it has to be done before the cam gears are installed. If any one who has an aussie but has not installed it yet wants a copy of these instructions (april 05 revision) just PM me with your email address and i will forward it to you.

[will e]

Without looking there are two measurements they were looking for. 1 was the space between the Ping and the locking gears

The second was the distance between the two cam gears. I ended up stacking several feeler guages together before I had enough to measure it. Basically, I think this makes sure there is enough room for the cam gears to move when turning but not so far from each other that the spirng tension is wrong.

[HARDCORE pacer]

they actually wanted the space between the pinion shaft and the spacers that reside on the axle gears and .006 to .020 is acceptable in there eyes so obviosly if you had to stack several feeler guages together to get a reading that would be the wrong info. Like I said before it could be spelled out way better in the old directions but I guess that is why there are new ones.