cage pics

[youngjeeper]

im gonna be working on designing my cage soon and need some pics to look at.

my thought as far as design is an 8pt cage, needs to cover whole jeep, as i will have the backseat. leaving the windshield is still undecided but i when probably end up with a lexan windshield. for seats im not sure want im gonna do yet, i would like the harness belts could i just cut hole in wag seats?

id like to see all kinds of pics, side views, roof views, rear views, seat brackets, passenger areas, windshields,etc.. bring them on boys

-Dan

[ October 08, 2003, 05:15 PM: Message edited by: youngjeeper ]

[rockjeep44]

Dan, I'd try and keep the windshield and windshield frame. After I broke mine and tore the a-pillar off the jeep I was never able to keep water out of the jeep again. Reason being is because the cage only went up to the dash and the lexan was bolted to the cage windshield frame so when it would rain and I would put my bikini top on(pickup cargo cover would well actually) the water would run down the lexan and right into my lap due to the gap between the dash and the cage. Get it? smile.gif
-Andrew

[youngjeeper]

good point, but what about windshield flex? got any ideas to keep it under control?

[nxcj]

Tie the cage to the frame (holes through the floor) and you shouldn't have to worry about flex. With a rigid frame and a body still floating on rubber, the windshield should hold up.

[ October 08, 2003, 05:27 PM: Message edited by: nxcj ]

[FYR WOOD]

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/1984-1992-GrandWagoneers/ScottFelter1.jpg

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/1984-1992-GrandWagoneers/wagsideshot.jpg

give those a look...if I had it to do all over...I would have changed the way the back came out, but it works. I'd also add some door bars.

Scott

[FYR WOOD]

and if you look closely, you can see that the front part of the cage is tied into the frame via the rock sliders. Hows that for killing two birds with one stone?

Scott

[rockjeep44]

Windshield flex was never a problem for me actually. I also never went to the frame, I went to the floor with the front two hoops which was bolted to the rock sliders which were welded to the frame and in the rear I went straight to my bumper which was welded to the frame. BTW, check your PMs in a few minutes. I'm about to send you something.
-Andrew

[youngjeeper]

alrite so if i was to goto the frame, i would bolt the cage to the floor and make legs with bushings, does that sounds right?

[FYR WOOD]

Mine are done the exact same way as Andrews. I didn't use any bushing anywhere in mine. Seems to me that rubber? bushings may weaken the structure of the cage, kind of defeat the purpose of the thing. Thats just me...

Scott

[blt2krl]

Originally posted by FYR WOOD:
Mine are done the exact same way as Andrews. I didn't use any bushing anywhere in mine. Seems to me that rubber? bushings may weaken the structure of the cage, kind of defeat the purpose of the thing. Thats just me...

ScottI agree with this!

[mandoneer]

Is the top already chopped ? I am working on an internal for a wag or chero that is minimal weildind req. 3 parts 10 points 4 hoops

[youngjeeper]

good point, i could see how it mite weaken it, so i guess the plan is to weld it to the rear bumper and sliders, like andrews and FYR WOOD's was done

[GaWag]

Dan do you have a bender? Are you holding out on us? Inquiring minds want to know.

Steve

[rockjeep44]

Actually, if you wanted to go to the frame and do it correctly it can be done with rubber bushings and it will strengthen the cage. Here is how it is done. Build your cage and bolt it to the floor like normal. Then take 8 more plates and make sure they are around .5-1in smaller than the plates welded to the cage. Then, bolt them to the bottom of the floor up through the plates welded to the cage. Then take you some square tube or round tube, whaterver you want to use and go from that bottom plate to the frame where you should have two 1/4in thick tabs welded on with a BA200 bushing in between from www.mountainoffroad.com (http://www.mountainoffroad.com) These are their bombproof bushings and they arn't going anywhere. Then weld your tube to that bushing and do this for all 8 points. I'd feel safe rolling ten times in a row in a cage built like that. However, let me say I think that is overkill for most wheeling.
-Andrew

[Merc69]

Andrew...The bushing idea is cool I will be doing that to the cage for PsyOp sometime in the future. Mostly to see if I can do it and for the bling factor :D

[youngjeeper]

steve,

no i have no bender, sorry man. i have a feeling we'll be gettin the equipment this summer so we can mess around a little. me and my dad are gonna be takin some fab classes later on. im getting this cage built for me.

[ October 13, 2003, 07:30 AM: Message edited by: youngjeeper ]

[David Allen Racing]

Check out some of the pics of my cage on my site. The Beast (http://www.davidallenracing.com/cherokee.htm)
To help with the windshield flex, I left the top of the door frames and the b-pilars for support. My cage has bolts at the b-pilars to tie it all together. For my cage we welded the foot plates to the body crossmembers (the ones the body mounts to the frame with) This keeps everything mounted with the body mount bushings. For the cage to seperate from the frame in a rollover, it would have to shear all the body mount bolts. Plus being welded to the body crossmembers, there is no way to punch the cage through the floor in a rollover.

Dave

[jode]

David Allen,
Did you cut the roof out in between and above the front seats? Or did you leave it there like a permanent bikini top?

[David Allen Racing]

Originally posted by jode:
David Allen,
Did you cut the roof out in between and above the front seats? Or did you leave it there like a permanent bikini top?Nope, open to the world.
http://www.davidallenracing.com/cheroJeep6.jpg

Dave