DANA 300 CONVERSION UPDATE WITH QUESTIONS

[WINGO]

Here's the status of my conversion:
1-Twin sticks installed on D 300, X-case painted and ready to install.

2-Have a new axle from a '79 WT that has been cleaned and taken apart for a rebuild

The advise that I have received from the board (Thanks Scotty) and from internet reading
CJ Transmission Swap (http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/convtrans/convtrans.html)is that I will need at least 4" of lift for the front drive shaft to clear the TF 727. Right now, I have a AAL which lifted the front 2.25"........not enough! My questions are:[LIST]

1-How much lift will I gain using the Chevy lowering shackles and what are the positive and negative outcomes of this conversion?

2-SOA or 6" arched springs?

3-What are the benefits of a SUA opposed to a SOA? (Road handling is really not a concern, but at the probable height that the truck will be at after conversion could qualify the truck for a lifted vehicle and have to under go NJ Roll over and safety inspection)

4-Todd.....What's your back order waiting time for the rear?

Thanks!

[ January 20, 2002: Message edited by: WINGO ]

[ January 20, 2002: Message edited by: WINGO ]

[ January 20, 2002: Message edited by: WINGO ]

[ January 20, 2002: Message edited by: WINGO ]

[ January 20, 2002: Message edited by: WINGO ]</p>

[jeepbob]

That would be on a CJ which has the diff closer to the centerline of the rig than a FSJ does. you may be good to go. If you want I will go and get the measurement from the center of the CJ to the center of the drive shaft at the diff for you so you can compare it for your self. I would lay it out on paper using the frame rail as a ref point and dimensions taken various points from the rail to the tranny and from the center of the shaft to the rail. Also use another (side) view with the ground as a ref to get the ground to tranny and ground to drive shaft points. This will let you know if you will have an interference problem. Back in the old days before 3D computer design programs this is how it was done.

[jeepbob]

The center of the CJ driveshaft is only 6" from the center of the rig.

[scotty]

jeepbob,i tried to run a d300 behind a 727 in my GW.even a 1" stickboy driveshaft rubs te pan at stock ride height. 2.5" may give him enuff room for clearance while driving on a smooth surface,but wont leave much if any room for uptravel.hell prolly need that extra inch or 2 to keep it from bottoming on the bumpstop everytie he hits alittle bump. my solution was to simply use a 904. much skinnier. smile.gif


wingo,

1-how much longer are the shackles than stock? you willl gain 1/2 this amount in lift. a big negative aspect of a shackle lift is that it throws the front caster out of whack. not enuff caster makes for a very vauge road feel,no "return to center" of the wheel,and the wheels turing the opposite direction if you pull it with a towbar. ive never been a shackle lift fan,and wouldnt really reccomend going this route if possible.

2 and 3- a 6 inch lift spring is generally going to be alot firmer than stock springs. youll get a soft cushy ride and lots of articulation with a SOA,plus prolly an extra 1/2 to 1 inch more lift than with a lift spring.

advantage-low cost ifyou can do all the work yourself

disadvantage- a SOA is alot more complex than bolting on a set of SUA lift springs.

the only reason i didnt do a soa is that i want to keep CG low,and dint want the 6-7" that a soa would give. i used tuff country chevy springs which gave me about 4" of lift and moved my front axle forward,so it worked out much better.

a good quality lift spring will still give a decent ride and articluation. thats why i went with tuff country,even tho they dont make a FSJ spring.it rides great,and will still compress onto the bumpstop.they are soft enuff to not beat the crap out of me onthe trails,yet just firm enuff that i cna drive really fast across uneven,rough terrain without it crashing and banging and bottoming out like my stock springs.

alot of folks really like the skyjacker sofrides. i cant comment on them,rustys,or others,but i can say stay away from rancho or superlift.very,very stiff.

one last disadvantage is that the u bolts and plate eat up alittle groud clearance,but i havent really had much trouble with mine.just make sure that you dont have 6" of bolt hangin on after the nut ;)

hope this helps.

[jeepbob]

I was not sure about the 727 clearence but I do know it is better with a Wag than a CJ.

[scotty]

yeah-727 would definately be worse in a cj. at stock height,there was less than 1/4" between the skinny shaft tand the big fat bulge at the front of the pan. when the engine torqued,there was enuff movement to allow contact. put a big groove in the shaft,and actually caused one of the bolts to loosen and fall out! with the 904,i had room for a 2" diameter shaft.

[WINGO]

Scotty & Jeepbob.......thanks for the replies.

I have decided to go with the SOA opposed to arched springs.

To correct the steering problem, should I use a drop pitman arm or use a setup like Todd has (Riverbeast)? I have stock springs with a Rough Country AAL. When installed a year ago, it gave me 2.25" of additional lift.

The axle is off the truck so it will be real easey to take care of any work required.

I want to do this job right the first time!

Thanks!