All right! Who's done high steering?

[Heimeken]

This section was needed for a while.

I'm almost done collecting parts for a high steering setup on my 85 wag. Two things I am pondering at the moment.

1) will I need a spacer between the knuckle and the steering arm so that the tie rods will clear the springs on flex?

2) I currently have a 4" DPA, am I going to have to dig up my stock PA?

My Wag is SOA and putting in 1" lift springs.

[dnixon]

From what RB has testing in his recent height adjustment was that if you only have a SOA you can either use your DPA or the spacer..
My thoughts on the matter would to use the spacer instead. Just like you said to hopefully help add some clearence between the springs and the Tie Rod.

Are you doing a FULL high steer (both drag and tie rods are above the springs) or just a Crossover style?

[rockjeep44]

Watch those spacers. Depending on how big they are, they can put A LOT of stress on the knuckle. Think of the force needed to turn big tires, think of the force a hydraulic steering pump can put out, then put all that force way up on the knuckle. You have to remember knuckles were designed to take that force a lot lower down. If you are running 1-tons it's not as big of a deal but still I'd worry about it.

[Heimeken]

Yes, I'm going with a full high steering putting flattops on both sides. Thanks for the advice Andrew, I hope not to use the spacers. I'm beefing up my Dana 44 to 8 lugs and moser axles. I have not decided on the tire size, either 36 or 37" ers.

[River Beast]

I used the spacer AND the DPA due to the 4" lift springs with my D44....

once I took off the 4" springs... I reverted back to the just the spacer and and an OEM pitman arm...

Now with the D60... the OEM pitman and just a D60 high steer arm works GREAT with the OEM springs.

My fear with the d44 WITHOUT the spacer on the hig steer arm was possible interferance witht eh draglink and the spring.... I never tried it, but it visually looked REALLY close...

[Panther]

One thing to keep in mine is that when you raise the pinion angle it lowers the steering arm and links moving them closer to the spring. This is a problem I have run into with my scrambler and actually had to "shave" a little off tie rod where the drag link connects. Here's my hysteer page and you can see the clearance probs in the last 2 pics: http://www.panther4x4.com/Panther/Hysteer.html

I didn't want to use a spacer either, mostly because if I raised the arms, it would raise the tie rod which already comes very close to the frame on extreme compression.

The other issues with the pitman arm may apply but basically everything else with the CJ hysteer applies to FSJ as well.

[River Beast]

Here is the D60 high steer I set up using the SHAKERBUILT arm... D60 stock Tierod end and the custom draglink that I used with my D44 fit perfect with the 7/8" thread.. the adjuster on the draglink is the same thread and diameter from the 44 to the 60.

http://www.fsjworld.com/gallery/Riverbeast/77226.jpg

IT sits well above the springs.... unlike the D44 without the spacer. I am alos using the stock pitman arm..

[ April 25, 2003, 09:20 AM: Message edited by: River Beast ]

[Elliott]

Hey Todd,
I'm doing a front Dana 60 to my J2600 and putting in a high steer to mount the tie rod up above the springs. As it is now, the J20 Dana 44 tie rod fits the stock D60 mounted in the original location below the springs. Would that Dana 44 tie rod still fit up above the springs on the high steer arms so that the same draglink set up can be used?
Otherwise I'd have to have one high steer steer arm with two holes in it for a custom draglink.
Whatcha' think?

[Elliott]

bttt

[River Beast]

Elliot,

What I did was got the OEM D60 tierod end for the high steer arm... it's 6.33" long (read - longer than the D44 tierod buy a longshot) This makes up the difference in width of the D44 to the D60 on mine and no other mods were necessary for me with my custom draglink I made for my D44. The Tierod ends that screw into the adjuster are the same 7/8" thread for the adjusters.

I'm not sure if the taper is fully correct... I think there is a slight difference in the taper of the D44 and the D60... if not... the P/N's would be the same.....

[FSJeeper]

If budget is not an issue, Rockstomper.com can set you up with a total boltin setup with their super HD tie rods and pitman arms.

I got mine in 3 days after ordering for about $380. Outstanding quality and perfect boltin setup.

[HeepofaJeep]

Here are pictures of my "Custom" high steer. FSjeeper, this is on those m715 axles that I ended up buying.

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/1963-1987-Pickups/Heep9steerarm.jpg

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/1963-1987-Pickups/Heep8steerarm.jpg

[The Wagprocrastinator]

I'm stupid to the off road stuff. Why do you need high steer set up? I'm getting a 86 Wag with 4 suspension lift. Would I need to do this? I just am wondering why you would do this.

[River Beast]

High steer is the best way to correct steering issues with SOA conversions....

You can do high steer on normally lifted rigs as well just to move the steering components up out of harms way...

[Heimeken]

These are the steering arms I got from Shakerbuilt.com, I didn't realize it till now that only the passenger side has the hole at the end of the arm. Why is that? I assume I must use the matching two inner holes for the tie rod?

http://home.elp.rr.com/bela/SteeringArms.jpg

[River Beast]

The inner holes are for the main tierod... the outer hole is for a custom draglink....

[Panther]

Jamie, I thought the same thing when I got mine from them as well but I looked at my scrambler and remembered that the cone spacers go in with the small taper first. So that means the arm with one hole is the drivers side so you are all set. Of coarse if you use the original links you don't have to worry about running a drag link to the arm.

[imported_Big Red]

Here is the link to my High Steering. I am running stock springs with the spacer on the flat top knuckle. I think the DPA will be fine. Notice how mine is angled.

Link to High Steering (http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=012340#000000)

[Heimeken]

Thanks guys,

It cofused me cuz the outer hole, sits right on top of the stock arm hole.

[FYR WOOD]

I run 2" lift springs in a SOA setup and have just dont crossover steering to solve my steering problems. I run a 4" DPA and a crossover arm on the top of the passenger side knuckle from Foothill Offroad, with no spacer. I built my tierod and draglink from tubing and tube inserts from Avalanche Engineering. The tubing is 1.5"OD and .25" thick, good strong stuff. The draglink is almost parallel to the ground(good for eliminating bumpsteer) and the only thing that rubs is the tie rod on the bottom of the springs at full compression. I have had no other problems with this setup, and personally I dont do all that much steering when my truck is twisted up that much anyways so I'm happy with it.

Scott