View Full Version : Trussing??
orangecherokee
04-29-2003, 04:41 PM
I don't know too much about this subject but it seems applicable to me due to the fact i'll be spinning 37s on d44s and i don't want snappage on my maiden voyage out into the woods. i like wheelin and knowing that i can romp on it when i have to. i'll be upgrading later but for now i want to wheel what i got. has anybody done this or have some reference sites?
Damage, Inc.
04-29-2003, 05:23 PM
I've seen a couple where the guy used a 2x4" piece of square tubing over the D44, then welded plates through-out the pumpking (on the bottom). If you plan on doing some jumping/bouncing, a truss is a good idea.
Do a search on Google!!
robselina
04-30-2003, 05:23 AM
I was thinking 2x4 rect tube or something similar with a trapezoid in the middle to connect the two sides and pass over the pumpkin. Then use u-bolts to attach it to the axle. Can't hurt at least right?
rockjeep44
05-02-2003, 08:14 AM
Some good trusses in these pics Rob.
http://www.rebelrockrunners.org/gallery/random/jellico/index.html
-Andrew
Look...trusses are great and all, but they aren't going to solve your problem.
You are in danger of snapping axle shafts and U-joints with the bigger tires...not the housing...
Trusses solidify the housing for doing jumps and whatnot....you may need trusses for that, but when you go wheelin with them 37's...make sure to bring extra shafts and u-joints ;)
robselina
05-03-2003, 03:34 PM
breaking driveshafts and u-joints with 37s? I broke my front shaft, u-joint an yoke with 31s at the Chile Challenge! LOL Heimeken broke a driveshaft too, with 35s. I carry spares now when offroad ;)
robselina
05-03-2003, 03:39 PM
thanks for the link Andrew. I like the one on the rear of that rock buggy on the first page. looks really well done.
shredby4
05-04-2003, 03:51 PM
jode,
Good advice on carrying spare axle shafts... Luckily I haven't needed one yet... Which leads me to a question for you and everybody else...
Where can I find axle shafts for a Q-Trac Dana 44? Other than junkyards, I haven't tried looking yet. :rolleyes: But I would like to find out if there is a source for NEW axle shafts. How bad are these things to replace anyway?
The main reason I need to know is that I am considering a set of 33X12.50 High tec retreads in the very near future. :D
I am positive that you can buy NEW and beefed axle shafts from the major parts houses (Randy's Ring & Pinion, Dyna trac, etc. The only prollem is that you could be looking at some serious $$ to get them.
I haven't looked into it (in depth) B4, but from what I have heard in casual conversation, it is about a comparable price to get into a D60 as it is to beef up a D44...obviously, there are 1.5 million variables in that equation (including your fab skills, your connections with people with parts, etc.) but it may be something that you may want to consider after you start seeing the prices on beefed up D44 axle shafts.
Plus, if I am correct, the D44 that came stock under (most) FSJs is a 19-spline version. IMHO that kinda sucks, so I am thinking that the beefier versions prolly come with a different (higher) spline count and that due to that, you would also be looking at changing out your differential while you were at it...I guess that is one of the reasons that the price adds up so fast. ANybody else is free to chime in here and correct me if I am wrong.
As far as used stock shafts, I would imagine they are a dime a dozen from members of this forum. Heck, I have a spare frontend (D44) switting in my garage as we speak that I am looking to unload for around $100...If you were to give me $50 for the shafts, I would sell the knuckles separately and the carrier and then you could have your spares for $50. There are prolly deals such as this floating all over the place.
One (+) aspect of beefing a D44 is that they are lighter than a 60 considerably. Light = good in my book, so that is a plus for the beefed 44. But what you really gotta axe yosef is whether you'll ever break a beefed 44 axle...cuz if you ever do, that would REALLY suck seeing as the shafts cost so much....then you'll be kicking yourself for not going to the D60.
Nope, any fsj from like 71 or 72 on came with 30 spline D44.
shredby4
05-04-2003, 04:35 PM
Jode,
I'm planning to replace it with a 14 bolt eventually...what I really want is a good spares so I'll feel better about welding the spider gears!!!! LMAO When that breaks I'll hopefully have a 14 bolt redy to go in.
Originally posted by 74 Wag:
Nope, any fsj from like 71 or 72 on came with 30 spline D44.Where you counting them splines?
I just went out in my garage and confirmed that the splines on the outer end (you can see it when you pull the hubcap off) total to 19.
(front axle out of a 78 Chero NT)
Are you counting on the differential end of the shaft?
all d44s have 19 spline outers, inners are 30, this is for front axles.
[ May 04, 2003, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: 74 Wag ]
OK, I just went out and looked inside the carrier of the my D44. It DOES appear that the spline count on the differential half of the axle shaft is higher than the count out at the end of the hubs. I guess that means that the outer shaft will be the one that blows first huh?
Originally posted by jode:
OK, I just went out and looked inside the carrier of the my D44. It DOES appear that the spline count on the differential half of the axle shaft is higher than the count out at the end of the hubs. I guess that means that the outer shaft will be the one that blows first huh?Probably, but you better watch ujoints first...
rockjeep44
05-04-2003, 06:47 PM
Heck yea, if you like to romp on it those 19 spline outers will blow every time along with the POS 297X u-joint and that'll usually take the ears out on the inner as well. Yea, sucks doesn't it. Basically you can't break one thing on the front (except for a hub) without screwing everything else up (inner, outer, u-joint). There are exceptions to this but I see it happen all the time. Some guy thinks he's covered if he carries a spare outer, thats not usually the case. I see the hardcore crowd usually carring full axle assemblies (inner, outer, & u-joint) all assembled and taped to the rollcage or something so if the frontend breaks you can just slide in the entire spare. These full assemblies are usually pretty cheap and easy to get from junkyards provided you find the right axle.
-Andrew
[ May 04, 2003, 11:47 PM: Message edited by: rockjeep44 ]
So the question that remains is whether or not the aftermarket "beefed" shafts have a higher spline count on the outers or if they are still a measly 19.
BTW a couple weeks ago we blew a U-joint in a D30 and it took out both the inner and outer shafts redface.gif
I thought you could get 30 spline outers, but then you also need hubs and such, probably looking at quite a bit of money in the end...
rockjeep44
05-05-2003, 10:53 PM
It's not possible to run anything other than 19 spline outers in a Dana 44. The beefed shafts are still 19 spline they are just beefed around the ears so they hopefully won't snap or deform upon u-joint failure. The 44 isn't like a 60 where you can run either 30 or 35 spline outers by just switching hubs. You're stuck with the 19 spline twigs.
-Andrew
I retract my previous statement smile.gif i dunno what i was thinkin...
netbear
05-10-2003, 01:06 PM
In the rear 44, you can get 33 spline
axles that are around 1.42" diameter
and are pretty stout. Rear Detroits for Dana
44s are available also in 33 spline. Moser
can probably make a set for you for $299.
Overall, I prefer the Dana 44 for 33" tires
and smaller. They are a nice axle, not too
heavy and provide great clearance. You can
do a lot of wheeling on 33" tires with lot's of
articulation. 35" is more or less considered the
limit for rear 44 axles. For your 37" tires in
a heavy FSJ, I would say just make the move to
a rear D60FF or 14 bolt and be done with it.
Sell the 44 or donate it to another FSJ who
is running smaller tires. When the engineers
design axles, the entire thing is designed for
a particular load capacity and just beefing
selected items just moves the failure point
to the next item in line. The front 44 is in
effect a full floater so the bearings hold
all of the weight and the axle just has to
transfer torque to turn the tires. The radius
of a 37" tire puts a lot of torque on those front
u-joints (2-297x). If you get the CTM joints
and aftermarket high grade axles shafts you will
do pretty well but you are looking at $300 for two
CTM joints and $600 for the four front axle
shafts (inners and outers). If you can't afford
all this, going down to 33 inch tires would
make your existing axles hold up a lot better
until you can put stronger axles under your
Jeep.
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