Axle swapping time...

[dnixon]

Well lets get this get this topic out in the open:
For those of you that have done this what does it take to swap what ever axle you put in? (60's, 70's, 14Bolt, rockwell, mogs)

[Rockwagon]

$$$$$$ and time and patience!!!!!!!!!!!! I did mine in about 3 weeks while working 60-70 hours a week. I spent 6 monthes preparing though. I got the axles and went though them welded the diffs and got U-bolts fabbed, made spring plates, steering arms, tie rods, drag link, Hydro. asist steering, and brake hoses-lines. Then it was just a matter of busting but.

[rockjeep44]

If you can weld, the rear is easy. It's just a matter of doing the perches really. Word to the wise...don't waste your time trying to find that exact axle that everything just "bolts" up to. Too many guys out there get way over concerned on whether or not they will still have their e-brake cable when they are done. I used a '79 Ford 60 rear for mine. It was an HD model. Basically just has more fins and trusses on the diff area. I had to bore it for 35 spline. The front sucked. I used a mid 90s Ford high pinion 60 (all ford 60s are HP for the most part) but due to the width I had to outboard my springs. I don't really recommend this but the axle was so **** nice I couldn't pass it up. Also, when you swap thats the time to rebuild everything in the axles. Brakes, bearings, seals, etc so set aside a lot of money for that too. BTW, my rear was 66in and the front was 68in.
-Andrew

[Sundowner]

I have a buch of crap and pics I'll post at lunch today for my rear 14b and front 60.

[River Beast]

14FF and D60..... from 84 CUCV (military specs...considered 1.25 ton)

Locked with 4.56's

Front D60 isn't bad if you want to SOA (or if you are already):

1. Direct bolt-in to the springs using longer bolts on the pass side on the inner side for ht spring plate.

2. Rancho RS5012's are just about perfect for shocks with factory springs up front and SOA.

3. High X-over steering is a simple way to correct steering issues for about $150 total in the high steer arm and custom draglink using a stock pitman arm and OEM springs.

4. Brakelines are a bolt-in too straight from the D60, it tied right into my existing line at teh frame.

5. 1310 series u joint on the 60 makes it easy for front shaft...may have to shorten it though.

14FF:

1. Perches need to come off and be relocated to proper width and angle

2. E-brake hardline mounts will have to be relocated a bit rearward on the frame.

3. Shock mounts will have to be removed, modded and rewelded to proper posotion.

5. 1350 series u joint will require a driveshaft mod.

I suggest if you go with a swap.... go through your newly aquired axles FULLY prior to you putting them to use.... check brake hardware, bearings, hubs rotors and drums and MOST important.... steering components like the king pin setup and the draglink and maintierod....

[HeepofaJeep]

I used m715 axles, the rear was a bolt in, and the front didn't even take that much fab work, but it still took a while.

IMO, if you don't have to fabricate new spring perches into the diff housing itself, the necessary fabricating is relatively easy. Spring perches can easily be made w/a torch, or bought cheaply for that matter. Shock mounts can also be made very easily.

Andrew had a good point about the angles thing. I spent way to long trying to get the angles exact,and then ended up changing them anyway.

As long as you stay w/in about 4* in the front, you can correct any difference w/ spring shims.

I did mine for less than 1700, including the cost of axles, rear locker installed, and 6 44" tires, two of which were new. Of course, if you have followed threads in the past, you could see that not only is 44s and m715 front 60 not reccomended, but the axles can be picked up fairly cheap.

Oh yeah, since I am already on a typing spree, I would like to point out NOT to adjust the front angles to improve pinion angle, but instead only base the angles on caster. The only way to improve pinion angle if it sucks after adjusting your camber is to cut and reweld the axletubes.

[Max Power]

I'm on the lookout for j-20 axles w/ 3.73 or 4.xx, you get a WT, ff, 8-lug, d-60 rear w/ huge 12 X 2.5in drum brakes, on the front, 8-lug, hd d-44 w/ big 12in disc brakes. I'm gonna try to get the 8 lug rims too.
ya gotta move the spring perches, modify the rear driveshaft and lengthen your parking brake line, {anything I'm missing?} but I think its pretty straightforward.

also I think you have to run at least 16 inch rims now to clear the calipers.

A pretty cheap otion, or at least I'm hoping

Anybody do this??

[robselina]

Sundowner and RB, I'd really like to see some pics of that 14B swap. I'm in the process of gathering parts to do this. If you could post them I'd really apreciate it!
thanks,
Rob

[River Beast]

Do a search.. they are posted....

[River Beast]

http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=011166#000001

[robselina]

thanks Todd

[dnixon]

Well I am seriously looking into getting a set of Rocwells... They are supposed to be best bang for buck when it comes to serious thrashings.. I know to start out the D60 would be cheaper BUT... after all the mods to make it able to hold up against our rigs weight and some possible over use of the skinny pedle you would be over the Rockwell price tag, especially here in Cali where sets of two Rockwells can be had for 800 bucks (I saw the ads!), and thats with both having steering capabilities.
My eventual goal is to run a 4 linked Coil overed rear with a debate still running with the front.

My big problem is the factory 6.7? gears. I would be getting some decent crawl ratio but with a top speed of just over 40 I wouldn't be liking that... So what can be done for an extra gear for top end?

Also, other then fabbing up my own Spring perches and driveshaft Mods do you see any problems with having them right now with my SOA?

[River Beast]

OD Tranny or Gear venders application can fix final drive ratios

[KYJ10]

If anyone is considering the 14ff on a jtruck, disk brakes are a must, or you must relocate the springs. My perches sit as far out as they can go, and still fit a 5/8 U bolt around the outside. No way it could have been done with the huge drums. It was an easy swap. Just move the perches and shock mounts, new U-joint, axle shortened and bingo. Now for the disk, there is alittle more cost involved, but still, pretty simple. I was able to use stock brake lines, with an adaptor I found at auto zone. Dennis

[Sundowner]

KYJ10, are you using a C&C 14 bolt?
there will be some issues with drum clearance.
I put discs on mine, but it was actually kinda cheap.
the weld-on brackets (that don't work well without modification) only cost $15/pair.

the perches are a pain, and I'm actually going to ahve to tweak my springs in a tad on each side so I can get a u-bolt around the tube with out hitting the drum backing plate mount. (too lazy to grind it off)
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/kids.jpg

[J20 project]

Ky and Sundowner, Which version(year and model) 14 bolt did you use? I have a 14 out of a mid 80's rig that appears to have the same clearance issues. I'm wondering how many dually style rearends are out there and what the specs are on them.................... J20

[Sundowner]

mines from an 87-ish Cab and Chassis tow truck.

I think it's probably the most common version out there, Iv'e seen an ungoldy number of them in yards all over. the C&C trucks are usually beaten to hell, so they seem to end up in yards faster than other trucks. the out-to-out of the backing plate mounts for the drums is 48" the drums are enormous, they must weigh 50lb each and they hit everything on the frame. discs are a pain because of where that backing plate falls. brackets fro calipers don't wirk with these axles and you'll need a welded-on soluotion. there are no straight-up weld on brackets for 14 bolts, so even the ones I had required some fab work to make them fit right.