a couple of questions about steering... (now box dissasembly)

[robselina]

Okay, just ordered this ram from Northern Tool:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/ser vlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=4006970&storeId=6970&productId=21342&langId=-1 (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=4006970&storeId=6970&productId=21342&langId=-1)

Now I understand where to tap the box for the hydraulic lines:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/HydroAssistTap/1.jpg

a quick question about the tap however, Belavista's page says to use a 7/16" drill bit and a 1/4" NPT tap (16 threads per inch). I take it that this is a mistake and it's really a 3/16" hole (not 7/16), then 14" tap? Or did I miss something?

Also, when to comes to drilling and tapping, do you have to dissasemble the box? or do you just drill at the above spots into clear chambers? I can't find any material detailing the disassembly of the steering box so far....

Thanks for the info,
Rob

[ March 25, 2004, 07:03 PM: Message edited by: robselina ]

[viscacha]

I’ve been reading the same tech articles. The pipe tap spec is ¼-18 npt. Tap drill is 7/16” dia. :cool:

[robselina]

thanks for the confirmation on the tap and drill. what does the 1/4" NPT stand for then? since the diameter is in the 7/16 to 1/2" range? dumb question I know....

As for box disassembly, know anything about it? there was some mention of turning the assembly to the left and yada yada on pirate, but their threads are so hard to follow with all the pad postings and BS that they have....

[KYJ10]

Good luck! I did alot of research, and finally just ordered one from westtexasoffroad.com. Was only $150 and he redoes any bad parts while he's at it. After reading all the crap about taking them apart and getting them back together, I said screw. I got one drilled and tapped, and I know it's in good shape. I would think you need to take it fully apart to tap all the way through and remove metal shaings. It also comes with the fittings and caps. I carry the caps just incase I brake the ram or a hose, I can just cap it and still have some power. BTW, I had my hoses custom made at NAPA. They have 90* and 45* connectors, and can make lines to you desired lengths. They are kinda steep. I think my two hoses and a couple of fittings where over $75. But they are nice. Dennis

[medic 976]

NPT stands for (I believe) National Pipe Thread. Refers to the INSIDE diameter of pipe bore.

[scotty]

yes,the OD diameter NPT taps are going to be larger than standard thread taps,so the numbers youre readinng arent wierd ;)

kyj10,that price is for 2 hoses? if so thats really an all-right price. everywhere ive looked into custon hydraulic hoses the cost is between $30 and $45 a hose smile.gif

[KYJ10]

Yea, I was kinda shocked, but I guess that is an ok price. I do know that the swivel fittings I got from them where really pricey. I think the swivel 90* was about $7-10 by itself. So with hoses and the 90*, i=I didn't do bad. Dennis

[robselina]

I wasn't sure how much the lines would cost, I figured pretty close to that though. Thanks for the info. I'm being a cheap skate on this one, I kinda figured these costs:
-Ram ($60)
-Lines and fittings ($60)
-Scrap metal for mounting brackets ($0)
-Steering fluid ($5)
-Drill and Tap ($25)

I really wanted to be around $150-$200 total...

I really don't want to take the box off and ship it out to west texas or anyone else. My box isn't leaking or anything and I'd really rather save the money and down time...

I've got a spare saignaw box off the old CJ that I started dissassembling last night. I need to go get a couple of tools to get any further, but I'm hoping I can learn enough to just do this myself, or at least how to dissassemble it to take it to the machine shop....I'll post some dissassembly pics tonight.

[ March 25, 2004, 07:00 AM: Message edited by: robselina ]

[robselina]

okay, here's some pics of where I'm stuck with the box:

http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/steerbox1.JPG

http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/steerbox2.JPG

I got the shaft that holds the pitman arm out no problem, but I can't get the side that holds the worm gear to open up for the life of me. I was tapping on a screwdriver slotted into one of the two holes on that ring trying to get it to turn and it won't budge. Is there a tool for this? looks like once it's out there's a snap ring holding in a seal and I assume there's a bearing after that. I want to get a look inside there see what I'm up against...anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
Rob

[scotty]

you need to remove the big locknut before you can remove the piece behind it smile.gif im just assuming you havent yet since it is still on in the pic. once you remove it,you should be able to get the adjuster plug(the thingy with the holes) to unscrew as well.

[robselina]

Originally posted by scotty:
you need to remove the big locknut before you can remove the piece behind it smile.gif im just assuming you havent yet since it is still on in the pic. once you remove it,you should be able to get the adjuster plug(the thingy with the holes) to unscrew as well.D-OH! smile.gif . I've been wondering about that thing. It didn't want to budge and I wasn't really sure if it's not part of the case....okay, time to pull out the big hammer... :D

[robselina]

okay, with Scotty's advice I've got the output junk all out of the way. I'm down to the worm gear, ball bearings and the gear that moves the pitman arm shaft. It seems that if I turn the worm gear so that it's all the way in (turned to the right) then I pull the whole worm gear assembly forward, the left pressure line (the one tapped in the middle, above the shaft) should be a clear shot and I shouldn't hit the worm gear as long as I don't go nuts with the drill. Then I'll just have to clean the sucker out and make sure I get rid of all the metal shavings. Cool! I'll pick up a tap and drill bit tomorrow and let you all know how it goes.
Thanks Scotty!
Rob

[scotty]

no prollem,glad to be of service :D

if you end up taking it all the way apart,when you put it back together,a piece of 1/2" PVC(IIRC thaty was the size i used redface.gif ) works well to keep the balls on the wormsahft as you rotate it while installing them

let us know how it goes :cool:

[robselina]

okay, got the box drilled and tapped as mentioned in my above post....then as I was cleaning it out with brake parts cleaner the rattle can fluid was enough to turn the worm shaft and tinkle, tinkle, out come the bearings! LOL. So I've put the box to the side, I need to pull the existing one and make sure the bolt patterns and everything are the same, and if they are I'm going to order a rebuild kit for this box and just go through it completely, get it right. I'll probably bug you some more when it comes to reassembly Scotty since I'm still a little confused about how those bearings get in there in the first place. :D
Thanks,
Rob

[robselina]

Originally posted by scotty:

if you end up taking it all the way apart,when you put it back together,a piece of 1/2" PVC(IIRC thaty was the size i used redface.gif ) works well to keep the balls on the wormsahft as you rotate it while installing them
wait I think I get it :D do you slide the PVC pipe over the worm shaft and then feed the bearings down it?

[gearhead77]

I need to reseal the input shaft seal on my power steering gear box. If I get the seal kit ($11) what else do I need? It may have been leaking before but it's lost a 10" puddle all the sudden over night.

[scotty]

on the rack piston there is a tube,held on by a clamp with 2 bolts. this is the return guide. youll haveto remove it and feed the balls in there,after you have completely installed the wormshaft. they are different colors,and for some reason its very important to alternate them as you install them,black then silver.

as you install the balls,you have to rotate the wormshaft in order to feed them in.as you rotate it,it backs back out of the rack piston. youll have to shove something in there for the balls to rotate on after the wormshaft backs out so far,and the OD of the PVC i used was apparently about the same as the arbor tool j-21552 that the shop manual reccomends ;) you cant take the "tool" out till youve reinstalled the guide return,and got the wormshaft all the way back into the rack piston.

gearhead,you will prolly need to remove the box to do the input seals. youll ahve to remove the big locknut and adjuster plug as pictured above smile.gif shouldnt be too tough of a job if thats all youre doing

once i discovered the PVC trick,it wasnt so bad to rebuild the box. prolly the trikiest part was installing the teflon rings on the valve body without distorting them. i think i paid somewhere round $45 for a complete overhaul kit at advance auto when i did mine.