Best way to hook up my front D60 steeering?

[netbear]

I have a 1979 Cherokee with a 1978 Chevy
K30 front D60. It bolted under the front
springs without any problem but now I need
to figure out the best way to get the steering
hooked up to my Jeep's steering box in the
best way possible. This part is all new
to me so the more details the better. Thanks!

[Elliott]

You can keep your tie rod low or raise it up above the springs.
Pick up some high steer arms that have at least two holes in the so you can run the tie rod up top if you want and still hook a drag link up to it.
You'll probably need a shorter tie rod as the high steer arms place the tie rods closer in. You will need a custom length drag link.

Haven't quite finished mine yet, Parts Mike can do all the linkage stuff for a fair price. Poison Spyder arms look nice, I got the single hole arms and can't move my tierod up :mad:

[ September 20, 2003, 03:37 PM: Message edited by: Elliott ]

[blt2krl]

It is really up to you. the cheaper route would be to buy one arm and do a cross over type steering. You could also do high steer if your worried about hitting your tierod in the rocks. I'm running Poison Spider arms as well. I made my tie rod and draglink out of 1.5 quater wall D.O.M tubbing. I can take some pics in the morning if ya want to see what it looks like.

[KYJ10]

I also run the spyder arms. I ran the ram cylinder behind the axle as well. You need some decent lift though. If you dont have enough lift, you tie rod will be kinda close to your oil pan. With worn stock springs and a SOA, I could hit my oil pan with the tie rod and cylider under decent flex. So I went with the 44044 fronts, and have plenty of room now:)
If you do any of the custom arms, Im sure you will need a new drag link and tie rod, as they will be longer than the old ones. I used a stock pitman arm, as my 4" drop arm made my drag link sit at the wrong angle. I made my drag link and tie rod also. But they can be made by Parts Mike at a decent price. Dennis

[netbear]

Thanks for the info. I'm trying to keep my
rig fairly low so I'm planning to run OEM
front springs with the SOA front axle. If
I need more tire room I will trim fenders.
I had thought about trying a set of the reverse
arch GM truck front springs but am worried
they won't flex enough since they would be from
a 3/4 or 1 ton. Since this is the case I will
need to keep parts fron hitting the OEM oil
pan. If possible, I want to avoid bump steer
as much as possible so some type of custom
upper arms seem to be the direction I need to go.
What do you guys do with the OEM arms that are
part of the front knuckles if you use the high mount arms?

[netbear]

Oh, blt2krl, yes, pics would be great. Thanks.

[tomd]

Originally posted by netbear:
Thanks for the info. I'm trying to keep my
rig fairly low so I'm planning to run OEM
front springs with the SOA front axle. If
I need more tire room I will trim fenders.
I had thought about trying a set of the reverse
arch GM truck front springs but am worried
they won't flex enough since they would be from
a 3/4 or 1 ton. Since this is the case I will
need to keep parts fron hitting the OEM oil
pan. If possible, I want to avoid bump steer
as much as possible so some type of custom
upper arms seem to be the direction I need to go.
What do you guys do with the OEM arms that are
part of the front knuckles if you use the high mount arms?1/2 tons have negative arch also, i will probably end up running a pair, one note, they will move your axle forward about 1" IIRC.

[netbear]

Hmmm, I did not know the front Chevy 1/2
4x4 trucks were SOA with the negative arch
springs. Maybe these would get me back down to about 4" of lift over the OEM setup on my
Chief. Anyone out there do this already?

[River Beast]

Here is a pic of my D60 and X-Over steering....

OOPS!!!! another sneak peek!! :D ;)

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/RiverBeast/RB_front.jpg

High steer arm is SHAKERBUILT and draglink is 1" solid chromoly milled to 7/8" to accept the 7/8"x18 threads of two adjusters and the pitman tierod end in the OEM FSJ type and the high steer arm is the K30 tierod end... GM steering arm from drivers side is cut off the top of the kingpin cap...

[ October 02, 2003, 07:07 PM: Message edited by: River Beast ]

[dnixon]

Nice.. RB.. can't wait to see it in Gorman ;)

[netbear]

RB-
Looks great!