best way to fit 35's?

[dell30rb]

looking to fit 35 or possibly 37's on my 76 waggy

not afraid of a little fender trimming

i want a full 4 spring pack suspension lift... thinking about the bj's 4in maybe... or possibly rustys 6in lift

i've heard that the 6in lift does not have very good flex... which is important to me. Would i be better off going with a 4in suspension lift, and then add a 2-3 in body lift?

just want to hear your opinions

[LRRH]

if you want flex and to fits 35sor7s SOA would probably be your best bet (along with trimming). there are members who make kits for this.....I'm sure they will chime in soon. =)

[Tad]

By all means please check us out.

TT's FabWorks - Custom FSJ Fabrications (http://www.ttsfabworks.com)

We are on vacation from production and shipping intil Jan 5th but feel free to ask questions. We'll be happy to help where we can.

Happy Holidays

[2MUD-IN]

Yep, a spring over would be a great start. You can than at least put some 35s or 37s under your rig, and then determine if you want more lift (using lift springs after the soa), or hack the fenders.

If you don't care to hack the fenders, I would do that....it would keep your center of gravity lower than doing a spring over AND lift springs, or body lift.

Just my opinion tho.

[dell30rb]

what do you think about this... 4in spring lift (new springs for nice ride) and a 1in body lift, with some fender trimming... would that fit 35's okay?

the story on the jeep is this... my uncle bought it with a bad motor in the 70's to build into a mudslinger.. had the motor bored, completely rebuilt... and then went to college and its been parked in a barn for 20 years with a freshly rebuilt 360 block sitting in the trunk area... according to him it just needs a carbureator (also any reccomendations in this area would be appreciated... looking for a budget carb that will work well off road)

from the reasearch i have done it seems it has a th400 trans with a warner x-case. I suppose the transfer case will need a fluid change... maybe split open just to check everything out.

as for the trans.. how much work should be expected for that.. it probably has relatively low miles, and according to him it was working fine when he bought it, its just been sitting for 20 years. i'm assuming it will need at least a fluid change, plus a good peek inside there just to check things out. Would it be advisable to just rebuild it while i'm at it? Where are kits and manuals available?

thanks

[River Beast]

35's will not fit with 4" lift and 1, 2" bodylift but with a 3" bodylift and moderate trimming will fit...

I put together this post a while back and still is used today for questions like this....

http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=9;t=000023;p=1

[ December 17, 2004, 03:38 PM: Message edited by: River Beast ]

[waggin'ear]

Another Raleigh FSJ. Nice.

should probably prime the engine with an oil priming tool BEFORE you start it for real.

Change all fluids, check/change all lines and belts and hoses.

SOA is probably the way to go.

[mudslider]

here ya go check this out on my J10. I"M running 35x14.50's This is what I got (http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2134004848&idx=5)

[River Beast]

apples and oranges... he has a Waggie... narrow track... you have a J10 W/T

[Berrett]

cut those fenders wide open and you can fit 35s no problem with 4" lift

[River Beast]

true...if he wants to trim up that far.... not sure if he wants to...

[Tad]

I did 4"+ of lift, cut my fenders and a 2" body lift.
That fit's 33's pretty well (for a while).

For 35's you are going to go 6" on a NT rig and still cut quite a bit if you want to not rub.

SOA @ 7" is a bit more pricey up front, that's a given.

The benifits are twofold.
Same ride as stock essentially.
More bang for the buck I think overall.

If you put it in perspective (right now I am at roughly $600 for SOA and another $200 to go I'm sure).
You are going to pay about $125 per inch of lift (that's ballpark, doing stuff yourself can knock that down a bit).
SOA is not for everyone, but it works.

[Jeepasaurus]

I did an SOA an trimmed up to the bottom of the wood grain and have no problem running 38"s. You say you have about $600 into an SOA, where did the money go?

[PietzWagon]

hey dell i go to ncsu i just bought a rustys 4 inch and the soa kit and am fixing to do it big here in a few weeks i can tell you all about the costs and so forth steering and all but i havent installed it...
i have little exp in autos so it is gonna be fun...

[PietzWagon]

if you have any mechanical questions ask river beast he has responded quickly to my messages...
ps:i bought the soa kit from tadsal and riverbeast...

[River Beast]

Originally posted by Jeepasaurus:
I did an SOA an trimmed up to the bottom of the wood grain and have no problem running 38"s. You say you have about $600 into an SOA, where did the money go?Depends on what route you take in many areas....

Steering with full high steer or X-Over can go as high as $500 depending on what and who you buy from.... as cheap as you want if you use a DPA and modified draglink... which I don't recommend, but it has been done proven and successful in most cases...

shocks... drivelines.... brakelines....

its all there.. you have to determine what you are will to mod and what you are willing to replace with new stuff... thats where the money goes.

BTW...

Thanks Bryan..... and your SOA kit should be to you for X-Mas!! :D

[ December 17, 2004, 11:58 PM: Message edited by: River Beast ]

[Tad]

Originally posted by Jeepasaurus:
...You say you have about $600 into an SOA, where did the money go?Sorry, I was mistaken.
>>>>
Flat Top Machine Work = $80
Super Arm Kit with correction and hardware = $259.00
Complete Ball Joint Kit = $84.90
Dana 44 Spindle Stud Kit = $9.99
One Ton Tie Rod & Drag Link Assembly = $259.00
24" Stainless Brake Lines = $100.00
4" DPA = $60.00
<<<<<
I'm at $852.89, not counting things like axle joints, rotors, calipers, and the front drive shaft.

I'm just that type, when I take down an axle I replace anything questionable or life supporting.
Can it be done cheaper?
Sure, but for me, most of this relates to safety and I hate doing things twice.

[PietzWagon]

i ended up just gettin both knuckles so i can raise the entire tie rod from partsmikeparts.com for 600 i got one new knuckle and a used knuckle

[River Beast]

good to go Bryan....

Tad.. nice talley of parts and prices....

[imported_89Wag_TheBeast]

Hey man, when I'm not at school in Greensboro I live in the Raleigh/Wake Forest area. With my truck I went with a 4" BDS lift and a 3" trailmaster body lift. 35's fit perfectly with a little trimming of the rear fenders. I will eventually go with a spring over and some really nice axles and of course bigger tires, but for now I have a good wheeling setup without going extreme/spending a ton. I say this because if you decide on a spring over I am sure you will want to build it right/strong which will cost a lot more than just the sus. and body lift with 35's. When you get everything together though hopefully we can go wheeling, good luck!

[robselina]

If you can swing it, the SOA is the way to go, but a 4" kit and 2" body lift will get you **** close...I'm trim happy though so I'd probably just stay stock height and trim to clear :D

Also, on stock axles you really don't want to run more than 33s or 35s anyway or you'll be snapping axle shafts. You'll also be pretty underpowered with anything over 35 thanks to the gearing so keep that in mind.

As for carbs, the stock Motorcraft 2100 or 2150 is excelent really. They're not powerhouses, but they're very reliable and work better than anything else I've seen at poor angles....

[bigwalleye]

I put a 3" body lift and cut, I run 35" 12.5 BFG MT with 1/4 tread left. I would never run this way with new tires but it has not stop me yet running this setup upfor now. IT rubs but for only $30 dollars it has made an awsome difference in wheeling. I would have no problems if I went with a 10" width tire.

[kong]

My jeep has 35" tires and has room for 37s. 4" BJ Kit, Revolvers up front and 2" block in the rear. Fenders trimmed to 1/2" of the wood grain.

[kong]

shoot... rusty's 4" lift... my bad. I think the trimming and lift etc ended up being around $650.

Oh yeah, 35x12.5 BFG A/T, no rub at all (clears the upper fender by abou 1/2"). Don't think I could go to 14.5".

Used stock backspacing on the new wheels.

[ December 23, 2004, 10:18 AM: Message edited by: kong ]