Rear coils

[tomd]

OK, i am trying to figure out what i might want to do with the suspension for my FSJ, might be a while, but i wanted to get started thinkin about it.

Coils look very feasible to me, somethin kinda like http://www.muddyjeep.com/coiled_chero.htm
Any reccomended vehicles to use coils from? If i were to do a 3 link w/ a wishbone, should the wishbone be the same length as the links on the sides? Seems like the axle would then drop without rotating? (not saying thats bad, but could be?) Any ideas?

I know many of you would just say stick with coils, but, i don't want the spend the money on new leaf springs, when i could do something with some fabrication that could be better in the end, and maybe not have to do things over again.

What would i need to do to prevent body roll and such? Swaybar, panhard bar?

I am figuring i would want a bigger rear axle, then some coils from xxxx truck, limiting straps, steel, rod ends, and some good ol' time with the welder.

Any comments or ideas are welcome.

[ April 22, 2003, 11:30 PM: Message edited by: 74 Wag ]

[J20 project]

74, I just came back from drooling over all of the stuff at Moab. Neat stuff on show down there w/ lots of mods everywhere. Probably the most interesting rear setup I saw was on Avalanch Eng's crawler. They used two half spring packs mounted upside down as two of the four links on a four link. They then used two lower trailing arms to complete it. Add a shock or two and you have a fairly easily fabbed suspension. Looked pretty easy to set up. Kind of a buggy spring arrangement. J20

[netbear]

My wife's car is a '95 Toyota 4-Runner with rear
coil springs. It works very well, rides great
and handles well. The parts are not all that huge
and so would imagine you could copy the mounting
points, angles, etc. Maybe make the arms a little
longer if you have room, etc. There are tons of
4-runners around and for that matter the 80
series land Crusiers also use rear coil setups.
I would think the parts from the junk yard
would cost little and Toyota parts seem to be
very tough. I've been thinking about doing this
myself. Good luck!

[dnixon]

I have heard of a lot of people using f-150 springs for various applications..

How about coilovers? do you think our rigs weigh to much to do that or has anyone had any experince using them?

[Stuka]

I have seen people around here using dodge front coil springs. As they already take weight well, and you can get lift coils for them.

[tomd]

Originally posted by J20 project:
74, I just came back from drooling over all of the stuff at Moab. Neat stuff on show down there w/ lots of mods everywhere. Probably the most interesting rear setup I saw was on Avalanch Eng's crawler. They used two half spring packs mounted upside down as two of the four links on a four link. They then used two lower trailing arms to complete it. Add a shock or two and you have a fairly easily fabbed suspension. Looked pretty easy to set up. Kind of a buggy spring arrangement. J20Thats what is called a 1/4 Elliptical, and what started this whole thing was, i have a friend w/ a fullwidth, 3/4 ton, small block, stretched wb YJ that he just did that with, he showed it to me yesterday. I just think that coils would be a little simpler, and i hear 1/4 ellipticals are extremely soft.

Originally posted by SLOwag:
I have heard of a lot of people using f-150 springs for various applications..

How about coilovers? do you think our rigs weigh to much to do that or has anyone had any experince using them?I had wondered about f-150 springs also...

Coilovers would be neat, but for me, way to expensive.

[orangecherokee]

i know that andrew (rockjeep44) is going to be doing this after wheeling season is over (probably in the fall) and will be building a 4link suspension for the rear. you might want to get up with him b/c he's pretty good at the engineerign stuff.

[Frank in Norway]

I used Old Man Emu coils on my Wagoneer. The rear is part number OME 851, I think they are for toyota landcruisers. Up front I used part number OME 764. Those are for Range Rover. The rate for both sets are 220 lb/in. Works very nice.

[netbear]

Frank,
How did you set up the linkage that allows
you to use coils front and rear? Pics and
descriptions would be great. Any problems
along the way? I'll take a look at your
web site later to see what's there. Thanks.

[Rockwagon]

I have some friends that just did coil rear with tj 4" lift coils. These are FS Chevy rigs. they havn't got them out of the garages yet but they look like the will work real good. I plan to go 4 link front and rear with air bags eventualy. I just have to build a house, a shop, and win the lottery first but once that is out of the way it is balls to the walls!!!!!!!!!!

[rockjeep44]

Ok first point: most coils designed for TJs, 4Runners, XJs, whatever, even lift coils are going to be way to soft for our trucks. I would recommend using either dodge coils or ford F-*50 coils. Also, wildhorses coils work really well. They flex good and have a good spring rate. If you go to soft, they'll hold the truck up fine but once you get offroad the rig will LEAN EVEERYWHERE. Trust me. If you have a bobbed rear and chop top or plan to bob the rear and chop you might can get away with a soft coil but definitely not for the front.

Getting back to '74 Wags question: you basically have two options. You can go with a 3-link or 4-link. There are so many designs out there but only a few are really time tested and thats a whole other story (or thread). So, basically what you are talking about, a wishbone with a jonny joint and then having straight lower links is geometrically a 3-link but technically a 4-link. A true 3-link has to have a trac-bar (ie axle to frame). Personally I don't like Johnny joints. If you are building for flex which is basically what rockcrawling coil suspensions are for then you'll want to use two heims atop the diff because they will deflect (ie flex) more than one johnny joint. Also, you can buy quality heims these days that you won't break, trust me. But they are pricey so cost is a concern. However, when I do my coils I'm sparing no expense. I was initially planning on running coils but I've since decided on coilovers front and rear. They are just plain cool. Can you say 40mph down the trail without feeling a bump boys and girls smile.gif Hehe. Good thread guys. Keep it comin
-Andrew

[tomd]

thanks Andrew, i was planning on dodge or f150s, i knew i would need 'em from a fullsize. i (will) have a shortened frame, pickup cab on wag chass, and a flatbed, dunno how heavy the flatbed will be though...

If i were to go with a triangulated 4 link, should i put heims on both ends of all the links?

You guys are a big help, keep it comin.

[dnixon]

Originally posted by 74 Wag:
If i were to go with a triangulated 4 link, should i put heims on both ends of all the links?I don't think you will.. I have only heard of peopleusing them on one end to adjust everything, everything being the axle. Like andrew said go with the heims not the Johnny joints.. i was saying johnny joints in an earlier thread and I ment heim. You can check out some good quality heims at www.polyperformance.com (http://www.polyperformance.com) he's a local guy here that is very much into wheelin', makes some good products.

Originally posted by rockjeep44:
I was initially planning on running coils but I've since decided on coilovers front and rear. They are just plain cool. Can you say 40mph down the trail without feeling a bump boys and girls smile.gif Hehe. Good thread guys. Keep it comin
-AndrewWhat are you going to run in the front? From what I have read the 3 link with the Panhard is the hot set up for the front.
Once i get out of school and get some money coming into the bank account I am going to go coil overs in the rear but I am not sure what I am going to do in the front yet... I might stay leaf. With the coilovers in the rear can you say MAJOR BOBBAGE! Here is the future my rig:
http://www.dekonia.com/Images/ifsja/FutureJeep.jpg

[ April 24, 2003, 12:36 AM: Message edited by: SLOwag ]

[rockjeep44]

Hehe, that looks sweet SLO. Anyone wanna backup a wall? '74 Wag, I would run heims at all ends for the smoothest flex. Boulder bushings can be run at one end or another but will eventually wear out and won't twist as well. I would only use them if I was mounting the coil or coilover directly to the link like this setup my friend built
http://www.rebelrockrunners.org/gallery/petersshop/4link/images/P1010006.jpg
Basically, a heim wouldn't be able to take the shock loads that setup is capable of producing. You can see the boulder bushings in the pic but they are there. However, if you want simplicity and lowbuck, you can run bushings at all four corners or just on the axle or just on the frame. It's really all preference. A guy in my club built his whole rear 4-link with energy suspension bushings because he got them for free and they twist and work well and he flexes great but in the long run they won't last and will have to be replaced. But, the bushings are cheap, you don't have to use rod ends, and you don't have to screw with lining the heims up just right. You can't go wrong with any of those setups honestly. It's all about the $$$ really and the heims will flex more in the long run but with a 4-link you'll have so much flex you probably won't be able to tell the difference. Like you said...limiting straps.

Slo, in the front I'm going to run a triangulated 4-link because I just have a personal vendetta against tracbars/panhard bars. Thats how the factory builds 3-links and I just wanna be different smile.gif Plus I can make a trick-Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley 4-link frontend that'll flex more and it'll be unique. Most people don't do it cuz it's a major PITA to get your links the right length and to clear all the engine parts (oil pan, etc) under flex. Also you have to build a custom crossmember but I've already got that covered.
-Andrew

[rockjeep44]

Oh, just as a rule of thumb. You want your links to be as close to the same length as possible, as long as possible without sacrificing too much ground clearance, and you want them to be as parallel to the ground as possible. Hence the brackets on the setup above that raise the outers up to almost level.
-Andrew

[Stuka]

A Panhard bar would be ok for street, if you took it off when you got to the trail. As It will make the rig handle MUCH better on the street.

[Frank in Norway]

Don't you mean a swaybar? A panhard bar/rod is for locating the axle sideway and if you take it of you're in for a very special ride:)

[River Beast]

Originally posted by SLOwag:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by 74 Wag:
If i were to go with a triangulated 4 link, should i put heims on both ends of all the links?I don't think you will.. I have only heard of peopleusing them on one end to adjust everything, everything being the axle. Like andrew said go with the heims not the Johnny joints.. i was saying johnny joints in an earlier thread and I ment heim. You can check out some good quality heims at www.polyperformance.com (http://www.polyperformance.com) he's a local guy here that is very much into wheelin', makes some good products.

Originally posted by rockjeep44:
I was initially planning on running coils but I've since decided on coilovers front and rear. They are just plain cool. Can you say 40mph down the trail without feeling a bump boys and girls smile.gif Hehe. Good thread guys. Keep it comin
-AndrewWhat are you going to run in the front? From what I have read the 3 link with the Panhard is the hot set up for the front.
Once i get out of school and get some money coming into the bank account I am going to go coil overs in the rear but I am not sure what I am going to do in the front yet... I might stay leaf. With the coilovers in the rear can you say MAJOR BOBBAGE! Here is the future my rig:
http://www.dekonia.com/Images/ifsja/FutureJeep.jpg</font>[/QUOTE]Donovan!!!

Look what you did to my FSJ?!?!?! :D

pretty cool... hahaha

[tomd]

OK, now i have a question, does it matter which way the V for the traingulated links go? My friends YJ w/ 1/4 ellip has it with the two converging above the pumpkin, in the pic Andrew posted, it shows them converging up by the t-case. Is it just space and and complexity of engineering?

I was thinking, i since i have post mount springs right now, running a link from the stock front mount to the axle on each side for 2 of the links, or would that be too short? Just thought then i could just use some bushings on that end, it would be e-z.

[dnixon]

Originally posted by River Beast:
Donovan!!!

Look what you did to my FSJ?!?!?! :D

pretty cool... hahahaSorry!
hahah ;)

Originally posted by rockjeep44:
Oh, just as a rule of thumb. You want your links to be as close to the same length as possible, as long as possible without sacrificing too much ground clearance, and you want them to be as parallel to the ground as possible. Hence the brackets on the setup above that raise the outers up to almost level.
-AndrewOn this point do you need all four or just the outers to be level with the ground?

Originally posted by rockjeep44:
Slo, in the front I'm going to run a triangulated 4-link because I just have a personal vendetta against tracbars/panhard bars. Thats how the factory builds 3-links and I just wanna be different smile.gif Plus I can make a trick-Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley 4-link frontend that'll flex more and it'll be unique. Most people don't do it cuz it's a major PITA to get your links the right length and to clear all the engine parts (oil pan, etc) under flex. Also you have to build a custom crossmember but I've already got that covered.
-AndrewYeah thats what I have heard about the front... like you said suppose to be a PITA to get it JUST right and it has to be for the front or else your going to have some fun times driving...

Originally posted by 74 Wag:
I was thinking, i since i have post mount springs right now, running a link from the stock front mount to the axle on each side for 2 of the links, or would that be too short? Just thought then i could just use some bushings on that end, it would be e-z.I have heard and seen people do that.. Isn't that what Frank from Norway did with his rear?

Originally posted by 74 Wag:
OK, now i have a question, does it matter which way the V for the traingulated links go? My friends YJ w/ 1/4 ellip has it with the two converging above the pumpkin, in the pic Andrew posted, it shows them converging up by the t-case. Is it just space and and complexity of engineering?I don't think it matters. I think Andrews is more of a 4 link. I think I know what you are talking about though I have seen pics i am going to search and see if I can find one...

EDIT: Okay how about these is this what you were talking about:
http://www.sierrarockcrawlers.com/images2/w0039.jpg

*FRAME IS UPSIDE DOWN* http://www.sierrarockcrawlers.com/images2/w0015.jpg

[ April 24, 2003, 03:26 PM: Message edited by: SLOwag ]

[tomd]

Originally posted by SLOwag:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by 74 Wag:
OK, now i have a question, does it matter which way the V for the traingulated links go? My friends YJ w/ 1/4 ellip has it with the two converging above the pumpkin, in the pic Andrew posted, it shows them converging up by the t-case. Is it just space and and complexity of engineering?I don't think it matters. I think Andrews is more of a 4 link. I think I know what you are talking about though I have seen pics i am going to search and see if I can find one...</font>[/QUOTE]I don't actually mean they attach to each other, i just mean, the traingulation of it, kind of points at the pumpkin, instead of up by the t-case. I'll look for a pic, or else draw somethin

EDIT: That is just plain weird IMO. That would be a pair of wishbones though, wouldn't it? Would you call that a 2 link???

[ April 24, 2003, 03:34 PM: Message edited by: 74 Wag ]

[dnixon]

Originally posted by 74 Wag:
EDIT: That is just plain weird IMO. That would be a pair of wishbones though, wouldn't it? Would you call that a 2 link???I'm not sure yet.. I am learning as I go just like you! haha.. I guess it would be..
I have seen it called many things, Triangulated A Arms, Wishbone, Opposing "V"

[tomd]

Originally posted by rockjeep44:
Oh, just as a rule of thumb. You want your links to be as close to the same length as possible, as long as possible without sacrificing too much ground clearance, and you want them to be as parallel to the ground as possible. Hence the brackets on the setup above that raise the outers up to almost level.
-AndrewSo would like 36" be pretty good, i am just wondering what a common range is?

[dnixon]

Hey andrew I found this from another message board and was wondering what you thought of it regarding 4 links in the front:
One point that has not been mentioned is steering...
With a traditional 3 link or triangulated 4 link, when the suspension is cycled the drag link will travel in a much more extreme arc than the axle...
Example:when the right side tire is cycled up or "stuff'd" the steering will tend to to forced right, which will limit your steering to the left... and vise versa..
this is unless your drag link is level to the ground when at rest... (unlikely)

This is why it is better to use a Panhard on the front that mounted from right to left and is as close as possible to the same lenght and angle as the drag link..
this will force the axle to travel in the same arc as the drag link and will greatly improve steering... Originally posted by 74 Wag:
So would like 36" be pretty good, i am just wondering what a common range is?i don't think there is really a common range... like he said as long as you can get without sacrificing ground clearence.
This is my thinking for this: You can kind of think of it like the earth. The radius is SO large that to us it feels like its flat. Well for your links the act like a radius. So when you are drooping or compressing the axle has to move along that radius. And you would like to keep that movement up and down as much as possible while elemenating front to back movement. Well the larger the radius the more you can move up and down with the least amount of travel forward. Travel forward causes binding and binding is BAD :eek:

Here is a post a guy that goes to my school did to help people like me and you understand the things that need to be factored into designing a linked suspension:
For those of you who really don’t understand what your talking about when it comes to designing a link type suspension let me fill you in on a lot of stuff. First when designing a link type suspension for off-road use you must consider: Anti-Squat, Roll axis, Link length, and Link angle.
Anti-Squat is a property that determiners how much the rear will raise or lower when accelerating. This is the reason a mildly modified Wrangler with leaf springs climbed the (A-7) obsticle that the Scorpion could not at the last ARCA event in Cedar city. With a large percentage of Anti-Squat the rear end of the vehicle will lift under acceleration. In the case of the Scorpion this causes the rear end to try to drive forward under the vehicle while the vehicle remains still. The result is the vehicle develops a condition similar to axle-wrap. The rear end starts to hop causing a decrease in traction.

Link angle is directly correlated to Anti-Squat characteristics. The steeper the angle of the links (assuming they are parallel) the greater the Anti-Squat. There are ways to combat this.

A longer Link length doesn’t necessarily mean a less steep angle. Also a longer link doesn’t always mean less rear steer. Rear steer is a property that is determined by roll-axis. Many of you are not even considering this when talking about link design. This is one of the most important considerations. Also when making links longer there are considerations such as bending moments, Euler’s Coulomb Buckling Theory, and break over angle (High Centering).

Many of you have commented on how a link type rear is not good since it reduces the amount of front flex by making the rear flex more. This is not true. If the suspension is properly set up the amount of flex for both axles will remain the same.

Before talking about or building a link type suspension, figure out what you need to know, or ask someone who does. It will make you look a lot smarter and you will be much happier with the results. NICE READING!!!

[ April 24, 2003, 07:38 PM: Message edited by: SLOwag ]

[tomd]

Cool man, i had found some stuff talking about some of that stuff over on pirate.

[dnixon]

Kind of a neat pic.... http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1316022

[tomd]

Yah i saw that in my searches over there, helps to visualize it.

[rockjeep44]

Ok, first of all, pirate4x4 can suck my nuts. There is a lot of good tech over there but it's buried under 1000000lbs of total bull****. Basically everyone over there thinks if they have 50 million posts then they are the fabrication gods, and that since they are a PBB member that makes them a pro at suspension. There are a handful of guys that know their stuff bigtime but other than that, it's a bunch of guys that THINK they know they stuff. Ok rant mode off. Getting to you guys.

74Wag: You can triangulate however you want. It really doesn't make a difference. The most common is over the pumpkin cuz it's easier to make the truss there than to build a custom crossmember that clears the rear driveshaft but since my buddy was mounting the coils directly to the link instead of the axle he had to triangulate them that way. It's up to you based on room, how you want to do it, etc. As for mounting your links in your old spring mount I'd say that is too short. You could torch the mount off and go farther up the frame. That would save making new mounts. But with all the premade tabs out there these days for cheap it's not worth the trouble.

Slo: You'd like to have all links on the same plane if possible and as level as possible. Those pics you posted of the Willis is an SA-Link. Personally I don't like it. Radius arm bushings and spring bushings with Astro Van coils. NASTY.

As far as link length, there really is no common length. Trucks and drivetrains are so different there are too many variables. Like Slo said, basically long but not too long ;) If you can get close to midway up the frame without sacrificing too much ground clearance you're doing good. If you look at the red toyota that was in TTC about a year or so ago his links were so long he kept bending them in the rockgarden. Thats exactly what you don't want. Visualize your breakover angle going over a ledge. If you're going to be continuously hitting those links before the rear tires come up you'll want to rethink your design.
-Andrew

[ April 24, 2003, 10:14 PM: Message edited by: rockjeep44 ]

[Frank in Norway]

Here is a picture of the frame brackets for my rear arms. In the upper right corner you can see the original crossmember. My lower arms are 38,5" long and the upper are 36,6".
http://www.fullsizejeep.com/1024/pics/coils/frame_brackets_rear.jpg
This is the rear axle installed
http://www.fullsizejeep.com/1024/pics/coils/rear_with_arms_installed.jpg

[rockjeep44]

Originally posted by SLOwag:
Hey andrew I found this from another message board and was wondering what you thought of it regarding 4 links in the front:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />One point that has not been mentioned is steering...
With a traditional 3 link or triangulated 4 link, when the suspension is cycled the drag link will travel in a much more extreme arc than the axle...
Example:when the right side tire is cycled up or "stuff'd" the steering will tend to to forced right, which will limit your steering to the left... and vise versa..
this is unless your drag link is level to the ground when at rest... (unlikely)
NICE READING!!!</font>[/QUOTE]Hey SLo, this shouldn't be aproblem because if your steering setup is right you should have your draglink parallel with the ground and then that whole comment is just a moot point.
-Andrew

[dnixon]

Very true.. and also you are running Hydro assit that should make this problem pretty much go away as well.

Good discussion going on in here... smile.gif

[rockjeep44]

Thought I would resurrect this thread with some good 4-link and 3-link suspension pics. When I went to the EROCC comp I tried to get some closeups. Go through them and see what you guys think. Hope this clears some stuff up, I know it gave me a bunch of ideas for my coilover setup.
-Andrew
http://www.rebelrockrunners.org/gallery/random/jellico/index.html

[ May 02, 2003, 01:13 PM: Message edited by: rockjeep44 ]

[tomd]

nice pics man

[rockjeep44]

btt, resurrecting for Fyr Wood.
-Andrew

[FYR WOOD]

thanks man!

Scott

[wrinkledmeat]

I just got back from a friends shop. While the wag was on the lift I was discussing having him install a rustys 4" lift due to my exceedingly saggy rear springs. He took one look at it and showed me some custom coil over shocks he had made. They lift the wag roughly 3" depending on how much sag you have. They definately hold the weight of the wag. He has me convinced that it's a better way FOR ME to go than a rustys 4" lift. They work like butter and for less $ than the rustys lift, not to mention QUALITY customer support. Install takes about an hour. I figured I'd pass the info along, though I know you guys know FAR more about this stuff than I. Please let me know if there are any concerns I should address before I take the plunge as I value the opinions of this forum.

Oh and he TOTALLY hooked me up with a new flowmaster 50 for my wag that just plain rocks. I am once again enjoying the soothing sounds of a thumpGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley exhaust system instead of the super turbo that blew wide open when my powervalve crapped and I set off car alarms around the entire golf course. :D :D :D

http://www.edsmufflersandbrakes.com/

[ May 24, 2003, 05:34 PM: Message edited by: wrinkledmeat ]

[dnixon]

Originally posted by wrinkledmeat:
[QB]I just got back from a friends shop. While the wag was on the lift I was discussing having him install a rustys 4" lift due to my exceedingly saggy rear springs. He took one look at it and showed me some custom coil over shocks he had made. They lift the wag roughly 3" depending on how much sag you have. They definately hold the weight of the wag. He has me convinced that it's a better way FOR ME to go than a rustys 4" lift. They work like butter and for less $ than the rustys lift, not to mention QUALITY customer support. Install takes about an hour. I figured I'd pass the info along, though I know you guys know FAR more about this stuff than I. Please let me know if there are any concerns I should address before I take the plunge as I value the opinions of this forum.[QB]If you go coilovers aren't you going to have to Link it up? I would think that would end up costing more in the long run just getting that all set up so it runs good without binding..

[wrinkledmeat]

Originally posted by SLOwag:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by wrinkledmeat:
[QB]I just got back from a friends shop. While the wag was on the lift I was discussing having him install a rustys 4" lift due to my exceedingly saggy rear springs. He took one look at it and showed me some custom coil over shocks he had made. They lift the wag roughly 3" depending on how much sag you have. They definately hold the weight of the wag. He has me convinced that it's a better way FOR ME to go than a rustys 4" lift. They work like butter and for less $ than the rustys lift, not to mention QUALITY customer support. Install takes about an hour. I figured I'd pass the info along, though I know you guys know FAR more about this stuff than I. Please let me know if there are any concerns I should address before I take the plunge as I value the opinions of this forum.[QB]If you go coilovers aren't you going to have to Link it up? I would think that would end up costing more in the long run just getting that all set up so it runs good without binding..</font>[/QUOTE]That's why I threw it out there Donovan. You guys have way more experience and knowledge with this type of thing than I do. It's just a coil over shock assembly that Ed claims I'll be more than satisfied with on my wag. I would imagine it involves some kind of fabrication on the mount side of things, but he says it doesn't require anything they haven't done 1000 times. I feel comfortable because he's generally interested in helping get my turd to where I want it to be and he's my neighbor so he knows he has to listen to my grief if it's not what I want in the end. How many guys do we run into that are actually excited about breathing life into the old and tired? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

[ May 24, 2003, 08:22 PM: Message edited by: wrinkledmeat ]

[dnixon]

I think you would be very satisfied but I think it would take more then an hour to fab up everything to make the coilovers work...

unless the coils and shocks were going to be installed with the leaf's still on... That I assume would work just to pull the leaf's up.. so you would have the coilovers just adding some extra resitance to it to keep the old springs from sagging... kind of like over load springs..

These are just my ideas on it.. I eventually am going to go with coilovers as soon as money permits... ;)

[Wagillac]

Sounds like it is just going to replace your stock shock. I dont see how this would be better than lift springs. If it actualy lifts it as much it will put too much strain on the shock mounts.
It depends if you are lifting it to help offroad ability or just to level ride and keep it from sagging so much.

[wrinkledmeat]

Originally posted by Evan FSJ:
Sounds like it is just going to replace your stock shock. I dont see how this would be better than lift springs. If it actualy lifts it as much it will put too much strain on the shock mounts.
It depends if you are lifting it to help offroad ability or just to level ride and keep it from sagging so much.As I understood him it would retain the stock springs for now. It mainly would be to simply correct the sag issues until he fabs some custom springs for me next year. I'm in no rush as my 31s are less than a year old and anything less than 33s with a lift looks like poo. I'm not trying to hijack the thread or anything I was just curious as to what other more valuable opinions were on the subject. I also wanted to bring his custom coil overs into the fray in case someone had a use for them.

In addition I have to say Ed hooked me up right with this Flowmaster 50. I was so stoked by the sound I drove around town for 2 hours with the windows down just so I could hear it rumble. Of course then I had to refill the tank. :D