Need to keep up with some TJ's

[bigwalleye]

I am selling my 2k TJ with 33's and 4" lift. I picked up a 85 gw to fit the growing family but I am not sure what the best setup would be to run narrow trail keeping up with TJ's. Fender triming sounds fun, trying to stick to a budget I am wanting to keep my 44 and 20. With a SOA my 35's should that old gw have to many problems with approach and high centering or can I run 37's with that same setup. I figure I am going with RB suspension kit but running the burb springs seems smart to help out with the departure angles. I have only took out my stock rig out once and my TJ buddys had a hay day tearing me apart.

[River Beast]

35's will fit with fender trimming... 37's.. ALOT of trimming, but depending on how hard you are on it on the trails... 35's would be the MAX I would go with 44/20. I ran 38's and stuck alot fo money in my 44's just to throw them in the dumpster to get 1 tons up front would have been alot cheaper for me in the long run... run the 35's with what you got and have fun...

[bigwalleye]

I now you rig is huge but have you had any problems running with smaller rigs like cj-tj and old scout 800's. As for the 20 it seems I can't find much out there besides parts for the Cj20's or are they interchangeable (lockers-gears)?

Trying to keep my rig narrow what rig would a good front/rear 60 come from? Maybe it's my lack of faith in fsj's but it seems 35's just wont cut it when running with TJ's on 35's. OF courser I have only wheeled a TJ so I have no experence running a larger rig on the trails and seeming how good or bad they are.

[bigwalleye]

I am going to run into problems like my 35's 12.5 BFG MT hitting the leafs if I mounting them on my stock rims?

[robselina]

with some work you can keep up with the short wheelbase guys no problem. Actually I show my buddies up everyonce in a while with the wheelbase advantages on ledges and steep climbs smile.gif The wheelbase is actually a plus out here, what kills me is the wide body, but I like body damage :D :D

as for 35s on stock rims, yes they'll rub. Don't do it. Also, don't be afraid to swap axles, at least the rear. You'll probably have to regear to be happy with 35s, so that's a substantial cost. I swapped axles to get lower gears since that was going to be cheaper, and I aforded myself a little extra beef in the process. If you don't want to regear, don't go bigger than 32s.

So basically, to keep it cheap: 32" tires on stock rims with a 4" lift from BJs. I'd also do a few other mods like rock sliders, moving the rear mounted spare, maybe a new rear bumper, tow hooks etc.

If you can afford the cash: 35s, new wheels, regear or new axles, sliders, lockers, new bumpers, SOA suspension, etc....

[bigwalleye]

I am not scared of regearing. It seams that keeping a 20 really limits gear and locker choices. It almost seems a little wiser to swap the axel now before the cash gets sunk into the 20. I will do a soa, just want to start off with a good base to build everything on. With no intensions to go bigger tha 37's you d60 is my best choice?

[River Beast]

Rob,

he is going SOA with this if you missed it.....

as far as rubbing the springs with 12.50's on stock rims... I cannot give you difinitive answer as I went with 31's then 33's on 15x10's then 38's on 15x12s then to 36's on 16x10's when I did my 1 ton axle swap party...

I would 'think' a 12.50 tire on a 15x8 would be ok and not rub... 15x7.... no way...to skinny

I hold my own on the trails... though its been a while since I have been on one... too many upgrades all at once...to make it better/safer.

If you plan on sinking money into the 20... I would say swap it out and get a beefier axles with the gears already installed(3.73, 4.11 or 4.56's) they are out there. I sunk $2200 into my 44's for all I did and threw them in a dumpster after I recouped less than half thru parts sales.... my 1 tons were setup the way I wanted them with no mods and cost less in the long run

[ August 17, 2004, 04:58 PM: Message edited by: River Beast ]

[full_hydro]

keeping up with the TJ's all depends on where you're wheeling..

in moab a locked FSJ will make a TJ look silly almost all day long. tight, narrow trails are a pain for anything over 100" wb. anyway, that's my $.02 on that.

here's what I would do with the axles. Since you want to stay narrow, and you're only going up to 37's. (two notions that might change down the road :D )

I would regear the 20 and the 44. Depending on how much freeway driving you're planning on, I would go 4.56-5.38 (I'm not sure what's available for the 20)..

I would do a selectable locker in the front, detroit or selectable in the back. The selectable will help your front end stay alive, and make turning easier on tight trails.

If/when the front shafts or u-joints bust, go to alloys and ctm joints. Or just keep replacing stock parts to your content.
With alloys and ctm's i think your front end would hold up pretty good. Eventually I think the rear might become an issue, but maybe not. Rear ends are cheaper to build. 9" or 60 would make a good companion for a 44, but you have to deal with narrowing.

$.00002

[bigwalleye]

Who else is running with smaller rigs? If so I would like to hear about your setup.

Thanks

[robselina]

Didn't catch the SOA comment. If you're up for the fab work do it. It's become rather easy with T&T's kit....

As for the AMC20. It's a stout axle, but I'd suggest getting a junkyard D60 and swaping it in. Get one with 4.10s and regear the front to match. You'll spend around $150 for the rear axle and another $40-100 getting it up to speed and installed. That's a lot less work and money than a regear....

BTW - the amc 20 in your rig is very different than a CJ amc 20. the SJ version is actually an amc 23. It comes with 3" stouter tubes, and single piece axles stock....Hum, just had a thought, if you wanted to stay narrow, BJs off road does sell a HD axle shaft kit for the AMC20, might be worht looking into?

[bigwalleye]

I was looking into those BJ shaft kits, but havent heard much on the boards if people feel their worth the money. Maybe it's just me but I figure shaft kits are more of a band aid than a solid solution.

[robselina]

Originally posted by bigwalleye:
I was looking into those BJ shaft kits, but havent heard much on the boards if people feel their worth the money. Maybe it's just me but I figure shaft kits are more of a band aid than a solid solution.it's not going to be as strong as a full floater, that's for sure, but if you want to beef the AMC20 to keep a narrow track, it might be worth it......Could probably shorten a 60 full floater for similar money though....