View Full Version : Suspension Question
06-10-2003, 09:21 AM
Hey guys. I'm new here and I had a few questions about my own fsj. I don't know if this is the area to ask but if someone could guide me that'd be great. I have a 1983 Jeep wagoneer ltd that is my daily driver right now. It runs good and the body, aside from nast paint is in good shape. I have an extremely limited budget but I really would love to lift it a bit-3 inches would be great. What is the cheapest thing I can do to get some lift? I have looked at 3"body lifts from Performance Accessories, anyone know if they will work ok? Oh, I my rear window/tailgate won't come down--any suggestions? Thanks a lot.
06-10-2003, 09:30 AM
Hey just been toolin around the site and noticed that the spring over gets a good bit of lift. Let me rephrase my original request--I want the most lift I can get for the least money-without totally compromising the ride. While I'm dreaming, I'd also like a pony, right? Thanks again.
06-10-2003, 09:34 AM
1st - Welcome to the board
You may want to check out the search function in the upper right of the screen. Lot's of info on options for body lifts on a budget (home made kits).
I used the trail master 3" kit and am happy with it (got it on ebay for a decent price). I didn't have the problem most had with the back most 2 nut breaking loose from rust.
You will also find a lot of info on the rear window.
Is it manual or electric (thinking electric if it is a limited)? Lot's of info on how to trouble shoot.
06-10-2003, 09:39 AM
BJs just started selling a bunch of lifts.
I think most of the lifted jeeps on this site will use a Rusty's 4" (or at least it has been the lift most discussed lately).
For the SOA you may want to check out River Beast's site.
06-10-2003, 09:51 AM
Just wondering how to find Rustys and check prices and ordering specs. Thanks
06-10-2003, 10:19 AM
I think it is just rusty's off road on google or something like that.
But, I think BJs has better prices?
IFSJA Members get a discount at BJs.
spring over is my vote, if you're up for the challenge.
06-10-2003, 10:53 AM
What is the general process and price of a spring over. I have a general mechanical knowledge but have time and a decent shop. Any idea?
06-10-2003, 01:14 PM
Are you going to wheel it, or just drive it?
If you plan on wheeling it a lot on pretty tough trails, SOA would be the way to go if you have the skills, otherwise it is going to get real expensive real fast.
If you just wanted a lifted FSJ to drive around and wheel once in a while on pretty normal trails, my vote would be to go with a body lift and a 4". You shouldn't have to worry about steering (dropped pitman arm) and drive line angles, or getting new drive shafts made.
06-10-2003, 01:18 PM
Originally posted by brettwagon:
What is the general process and price of a spring over. I have a general mechanical knowledge but have time and a decent shop. Any idea?Check out RBs page (link is in post above) and do a search in the tech section.
You will get all kinds of info.
06-10-2003, 02:02 PM
Full-Size Jeep 6" Spring Pack Kit Ø $739
6" Front 5-leaf Spring Packs
6" Rear 6-leaf Spring Packs
8 Grade 8 U-Bolts with 2" blocks
Front and Rear Stainless Steel Extended DOT Brake Lines
Drop Pitman Arm
4-Rusty's Hydro Shocks
This is where I got my lift it was fairly easy to install
06-10-2003, 08:39 PM
The rear leaf packs in rusty's kit or only 4" of lift, with a 2" block.
06-11-2003, 01:39 AM
SOA's are not uncommon... you have to do your research first to ensure you cover all the bases with general knowledge so you don't get blind-sided by unseen mods.... some of us have been there and that is why we share our experiences... to help others not make the same mistakes... or help with tips and tricks....
front shaft... possibly rear
brakelines must be extended or dropped down off the frame.
steering correction with 4-6" DPA or X-Over steering
new shocks and possible relocation of some mounts
reroute stock exhaust to clear the from shaft
E-brake lines may be tight after the rear lift...mods there
new U-bolts in the front are a must... rear ... depends....using NASTY blocks.... you need them....
The biggest concern with SOA conversion is ensuring the perches are welded no more than 3 degrees (most go parallel) from the OEM perch... and ensure the new perches are equal distance from the axle tube....since one side sits on the cast housing.... mods are needed to shave it down some and build the other side up a bit to get the level side-to-side stance...
Welding on cast is a bit tricky, but can be done... and if done right.... will be very strong... ARC welding... I suggest nickel rod and the cast be preheated.... I also have MIG'd cast with good success... also preheated, but took several passes with a 110 buzz box ( Lincoln Weld Pak) I am not a professional welder... just going what I have been told and it worked GREAT for me.
As stated... I have detailed info on my site.... (link in sig)
Generally speaking.... if you do all the work yourself.... to complete the SOA ONLY.....(estimated)
now with any lift you need to get new shocks... so leave that out for now....
The rear can be lifted with ...um <choking on this> BLOCKS :eek: or my kit.... I hate blocks so I am gonna say my kit
$185 RB Shackle Inversion Kit :D
Steering mods... you can go with a Drop pitman for $70 or go high X-over steering with a mid 70's pass side GM flattop knuckle and high steer arm for around $300... all the X-over steering parts can be purchased from www.partsmike.net. (http://www.partsmike.net.)
shaft mods... I recommend a high angle CV up front for around $275... but this is just me....
the rear shaft may not need any mods... you won't know for sure until you are completely done.
So the for the money... you get a soft flexy 6-7"suspension.... compare that with a 6" lift... ( I'll let you do the math ;) )
I like a 'personal touch' so I did my SOA WITH a 4" lift... but I have dropped the lift and gave it to my wife for her Chero.... I'm all about custom stuff.
Any more Q's... just ask....
as you can see... the SOA is more 'HANDS ON' and custom... a bit more in depth than just throwing on a lift.... the choice is yours...
[ June 11, 2003, 07:41 AM: Message edited by: River Beast ]
06-11-2003, 03:22 AM
Thanks a lot for the comprehensive info. You guys are awesome. Unfortunately the SOA sounds a bit too complex for my skills and tools. I may have overstated my case earlier. What I am looking at is a daily driver that won't see hard trail use at all-logging roads at the most. It is pathetically low with factory tires on it. I just want some heighth. I actually have been talking to another guy on here about using the body pucks (3") and putting them in. Any comprehensive plans for that? Also what size tires can I fit with this lift? Thanks again guys. The River Beast site is stellar--that is a mean looking vehicle!
06-11-2003, 03:33 AM
31's with a 3" BL will work... possibly 32's as long as you stay with a 7-8 rim....
Thanks on the kudos.... ;)
Also... welcome to the Forum.... we are all here to help each other.... enjoy
06-16-2003, 06:03 PM
I got my 3" ROUGH! Country from JC Whitney. Shipped for free (their special at the time) with an add-a-leaf for the rear (extra $). The block (included in the kit) plus the AAL did not get me where I wanted to be so I incorporated some leaves from the original front pack into my rear block/aal/old pack. Then started seaching for brake lines. To make a short story long, I think Rusty's 4" kit (block rear) is probably your best deal as it includes brake lines and you won't have to be screwing around as I did. Good luck.
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