Onboard air

[Mikel]

Hello,
The AC in my truck is the only thing that actually works when I want it to work, so Iīm trying to find a location for an extra York compressor I have. Unfortunately Iīm away from my truck, and I canīt have a look at it. I was thinking I could put it where the air pump is supposed to be (right under the PS pump)- I donīt have one. I donīt think routing a belt from the PS pump would be too difficult. What do you think?
Thanks.
Mikel

1978 Jeep Cherokee Chief 360/T-18A/Dana20

[andy d]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Mikel:
Hello,
The AC in my truck is the only thing that actually works when I want it to work, so Iīm trying to find a location for an extra York compressor I have. Unfortunately Iīm away from my truck, and I canīt have a look at it. I was thinking I could put it where the air pump is supposed to be (right under the PS pump)- I donīt have one. I donīt think routing a belt from the PS pump would be too difficult. What do you think?
Thanks.
Mikel

1978 Jeep Cherokee Chief 360/T-18A/Dana20<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>why? if the original works why have 2?how would you rig up hoses? extra pump would rob another 10 hp.



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'88 gwag

[Mikel]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by andy d:
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>why? if the original works why have 2?how would you rig up hoses? extra pump would rob another 10 hp.

[/B][/QUOTE]

Because I like to stay cool during the summer http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~zeimet/ubb/smile.gif One compressor for the AC, and the other one as an air pump.

The belt would be out most of the time, and I would only put it in when I go wheeling. I have one empty groove in the power steering pump pulley, which would be perfect if I could fit that other compressor underneath. I wish I could have a look at my truck http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~zeimet/ubb/frown.gif

[irbob]

Same prob here, kinda. I am looking at area where the battery is. But where to stick the bat then. Don't want it inside my rig. Also looking at all that extra space in the front wheel well. Can I cut a notch in it, just enough to set the bat into? I would have to extend one of the belts that go to my AC. So I need a custom bracket, notched out wheel well and longer belt. I know and all the hardware for the compressor. Keep us posted.

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Me (http://www.bigfoot.com/~irbob) IFSJA Window Sticker (http://www.angelfire.com/az/irbob/sticker.html)
83 Brougham, 360, 999 Auto, NP229, F/Dana 44F, R/AMC 8 7/8", 31X10.5 Pathfinder's, Rancho 9000's, 2" lift blocks, Custom Turbo II 2.5" single exaust, 3" Performance Products bodylift(soon). "Have you been off road lately?"

[Panther]

Yeah, ditch the air pump, fab a bracket for the compressor, mount an air tank opposite the gas tank and you got onboard air. With all those belts and pulleys, it has to be possible. I've seen the second alternator for an onboard welder on the 360 and I know I've seen the dual yorks too, just can't remember were.

Keep up posted on you progress...

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88 GW stock
82 Scrambler
84 CJ7

[joe]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Mikel:
The belt would be out most of the time, and I would only put it in when I go wheeling. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Mikel, just run an electric clutch like on your AC comp rather than removing/installing the belt each time. Odds are a boneyard compressor will already have a clutch on it.
You will need to install an air tank though to run air tools.
-joe

[Mikel]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by -joe:

Mikel, just run an electric clutch like on your AC comp rather than removing/installing the belt each time. Odds are a boneyard compressor will already have a clutch on it.
You will need to install an air tank though to run air tools.
-joe<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hi,
I donīt know how itīs going to be, but if I can use an existing belt (although it would need to be longer) that moves other things, thatīs what I would do, leave the thing alone. But if what I do is run a separate belt from the steering pump to my spare AC compressor, I might take the belt off if I can get 0.1MPG by doing so http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~zeimet/ubb/smile.gif
Itīs not like Iīm gonna use it everyday, and I would make sure I got pressure in the tank anyway...

Do you think putting an air tank at 100psi next to the gas tank might be a good idea?

Mikel

[scotty]

allright,time for me to jump in on this one. if you use an existing bels,make sure that the routing doesnt take away from the pulley surface area that the belt contacts,especially from the power steering. it seems to be important for the power steering to have its belt tensioned enough,or it squeals like a pig and doesnt work effectively-same is likely to happen if the new belt routing takes away half its contact area. if you go with a seperate belT(the way id do it) youll have to also make a bracket for some kind if tensioner pulley. the york mounts stationary and uses a seperate pulley to tension the belt. i guess it may be possible to make a bracket that makes the compressor slide,so you could use it to tension...

having said that,just make sure that you use tanks that are capable of withstanding the pressure. mine uses both the front and rear bumpers as storage tanks. youll also need to mount a pressure switch,and a pop-off valve somewhere in the engine compt.,as well as a female quqick connect coupling. ive got one over the front grill,and one over the tailgate. you can use air hose toconnect it together,or hard plumb it. i friend of mine used threaded fittings and pipe,and it took him a few days to get it pieced together. the only prob ive had with the air hose is the piece that goes from the compressor to the one way valve about 4 inches fromthe compressor. it would get very hot and blow. everything from the one way valve back has been fine. ironically,the thing that has held up the best,and has been connecting the valve to the compressor for several months is a regular old piece of 3/8 rubber fuel line. ive also got a dash mounted gage so i know how much air is in the system.

joe is right-with the clutch turned off,youll be using very little hp,if any. no need to remove and replace belt.

its very worth doing,on board air is very,very useful. idont see any reason not to leave your functioning a/c in place and mount the second one under your p/s pump. ill look at the engine in the truck i just bought and try yo get a better idea how it would fit. what are you currently running? just alt,power steering,and a/c?



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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

possible small block chevy "test" swap in near future

[Mikel]

Hello Scotty,
Thanks for all the useful info. Iīve done some research and I think Iīve located most of what IĻm going to need. A relief valve is of course a must http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~zeimet/ubb/smile.gif

http://www.geocities.com/lrseriesii/Amcv8.jpg

This picture came from my ī78 TSM. Itīs exactly what I have (360, AC, alternator...etc), except for the air pump I donīt have. I was planning on mounting the York just like the air pump, directly underneath the PS pump. I think the York might be a little larger than the original air pump, but hopefully it will fit. Coming up with some brackets wonīt be a problem, Iīm a machinist http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~zeimet/ubb/smile.gif

Scotty, do you have any pics of your wagoneer? I have 38x12.5 swampers in my WT and they rub in the rear (I have 7in lift). How did you get enough clearence for your tires??
Thanks.
Mikel

[scotty]

pics of my monster on bob barrys site ://pacifico.off-road.com/~wagoneer/wild/

i have 3 inches of body lift and very recently added a 3 nch block in the rear. the front is still completely stock,except for lack of sway bar and track bar,longer shocks,extended bumpstops,and no clamps on the spring packs. youll see how my tires fit when you see the pics. i had to cut a fair amount from the rear doors to follow the contour of the inner well. i have some rubbing at full stuff on the inner fenderwells. im currently using narrow trac axles,the use of different offset wheels and widetrac axles would probably get me both increased uptravel,and a better turning radius. ive got my steering stops adjusted way out in the front to keep the tires from rubbing the frame at full steering lock.i get some inner fender rubbing,even with a 1 inch spacer under the bumpstop at full stuff while turning.

this is the beauty of a $150 woods only beater. 38s with awsome wheel travel for $80 worth of body lift,and a couple of sawzall blades... http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~zeimet/ubb/biggrin.gif



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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

possible small block chevy "test" swap in near future

[Narnian]

Hey Scotty, how much do you think it would cost to get someone to make me a rear bumper like yours?

[Mikel]

BTT!
http://smilecwm.tripod.com/net/bandit.gif