View Full Version : Does fuel guage run off a fuse?
I still cant find it if so. My oil-temp-gas guages are all down. Dont want to pull dash if I can help it. Common fuse here?!
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83 Wagoneer.... um... thats all:)
Coley
07-12-2000, 03:24 AM
Skye,
It's the IGN/LPS fuse 25A. I'm no electrician, but on the diagram it looks like power flows from that fuse into the temp gauge to the oil, volt, and fuel gauges. It also looks like if no power gets to the temp gauge, the others are dead too.
Hope this helps..
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84 GW
360 NP229
Baker
07-12-2000, 04:43 AM
There's a voltage regulator on the back of the temp gauge, which has been known to burn out. replace the temp gauge.
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Baker
'84 Grand Wagoneer "B.U.F.F" (Big Ugly Fat... um...Fellow)
360,727,229, 44 & 20 (3.31s), 30x9.5
If you don't know what all those numbers mean, you shouldn't be here.
You mean the whole temp guage/gas guage thing?
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83 Wagoneer.... um... thats all:)
BobBarry
07-13-2000, 06:08 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Skye:
You mean the whole temp guage/gas guage thing?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
The temp guage is separate from the gas-gauge. While the temp sender may be readily-available, the gauge itself will take some hunting to track down.
It does indeed contain a crude "voltage regulator", which really should be called a "bimetallic temperature averager", as all it does is alternately turn on and off the 12V(+) feed to each of the other gauges (~1cycle/second), so the bimetallic arms in those gauges gets fed more or less an average of 5V(+) (which is to say that they get about as warm, and bend as much, as if they were fed a constant 5V(+)). This is why the earlier FSJ gauges take a while to "warm-up", especially in cold weather, why they are so slow to react to changes, why they read differently in cold weather than in warm, and why they "pulse" ever so slightly under normal operating conditions.
The voltage regulator itself uses such a bimetallic arm. The amount of heat the bimetallic arms in the other gauges see depends on the resistance from the senders, which is affected by the resistance of the intervening wires and connectors. When you think about it, it's amazing that any gauges provide any readings at all.
Oh, and as for not working, a break in the wires of the voltage regulator can cause it to not function, as can a problem with the slip-on noise-suppressor that jumpers two pins on the back of the printed circuit board on the instrument cluster.
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Bob Barry
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>* '78 Cherokee 4-door
* '88 Grand Wagoneer[/list]
http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/
Luperman
07-13-2000, 06:28 PM
On my wagoneer my gauges were fluctating ,it was driving me nuts, so I found where the connection point for power and gauge input was located on the back of the guage cluster it was a round connector that had a bunch of pins on it I pulled it off and cleaned it really gound with the battery disconnected of course and my gauges have worked great since . my .02 cents
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84 Grand Wagoneer 360
The Road Rhino...
scotty
07-14-2000, 01:04 AM
the other gauges should work with the temp gauge disconnected. if none work,you are for some reason not getting power to the printed circuit board. the gauges work by varying the resistance to ground,so you can check the gauges very easily by grounding the sending unit wires.if the little needle goes all the way up(when theres power getting to the cluster,of course) then the problem is likely not the gauge.
also make sure the ground strap between the engine and frame is in good shape.the motor mounts are rubber,and if the power cant get back to the battery,the gauges wont work right.
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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd
Ahhhh..... It's all so unclear now http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~zeimet/ubb/wink.gif
Wish I had a spare 5 minutes to check all this! Thanks for the info!
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83 Wagoneer.... um... thats all:)
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