JOE.C
08-17-2000, 02:33 PM
trying to make sure quadratrac is in proper range.its in a 1980 j20 360 v8 2bbl model #46 has the little shifter knob in front of driver seat. read owners manual, read tech section this shifter will not budge either up or down left or right. pulled on it pretty hard going about 4mi hr in N but still does not budge do not want to break anything . need info. thanks joe
FSJman worte:
try it stoped with the tranny in nuetral engine on if that don't work try it with it off
thats how i half to do it with my select trac sometimes
River Beast worte:
Block the wheels with about 1" of movement and crawl under your driver's side... find the linkage to the QT, it has a cotter pin holding a smal link from the lever to the QT. Take it off, put the trans in neutral (engine off) and try moving the QT lever by hand while rocking the rig back and forth. May be a little harder than usual without the linkage so it's ok to get "hateful" with it to a degree... but don't get carried away (hehe). All the way forward is lo range, and back is high range. The neutral position is in the middle. If it hasn't been used in a while you may have some caked crd under there... or previous owner may have rigged something up to stop the actuation. Keep us informed of what you find. Kinda curious on this one....
Another thought just hit me... your linkage may be binding, too. After my body lift, I found that I foregot to install the linkage adapter to the QT. (DUH!!!) I had to crawl under the rig to switch from hi to lo from under the rig cuz I left the linkage disconnected cuz it bound up all the time...
scotty worte:
keep in mind that his quadratrac should be a new process 219,not a BW 1350.(you guys really need to use the numbers when talking about 1980 and later 'cases). i have heard that a person may find the BW in a very few 1980 models,probably to use up leftover supplies,but i have never talked to someone that has actually seen one. it would have to be a very early manufactured 1980.
JOE,is your front diff on the driver side? you have an auto tranny,yes?
i have never had luck with the rolling/shifting thing with my 219. sometimes it wanted me to shut it off in order to shift it with no grinding,sometime it would let me just shift with it running. at any rate,moving slightly never made it grind any less.
at any rate,it may have internal troubles,or it may simply be "frozen". sometimes,if the previous owners never,ever shifted,and never,ever changed the fluid,it could simply be funked into place. changing the fluid a couple of times,and moving the lever on the t case will hopefully loosen it up.
irbob worte:
You've got a NP208(part-time unit,shift on the fly) if the trans is manual and a NP219(full-time unit,exspensive VC) if it's an auto trans. Now what does this mean? Not to much because there is only a couple of adjustments that can be made if needed.
The most common problems with these cases are linkages out of adjustment which is a quick fix or warn mode forks which is an overhaul.
Check linkage adjustments first before anything if your having problems moving the lever. This may sound like a text book and there is a reason for that.
Check the fluid level of case. 208 needs Dextron II and 219 needs 10w30 motor oil.
Early models with a manual linkage have a shift rod with two holes. Two adjust it put the hand lever into neutral and loosen the adjusting nuts on the shift control rod. Then put the case control levers in the neutral position and tighten the adj nuts. That's it.
Early models that are equiped with a cable controlled reduction unit have an adjustment where as the later one with the lever unit can not be adjusted. Now if yours is equipped with a cable controlled reduction unit there are two features that can be operated manually: the lock-out feature and the engagement of the optional Low Range Reduction Unit. Since the lock-out is a vacuum actuated unit, there are no external adj that can be made, other than making sure that all vacuum lines are in place, connected, and not damaged in any way.
The reduction on early models unit is actuated by a shift cable and can be adjusted like this:
1. Loosen the nut which clamps the cable to the shift lever pivot. Make sure the cable moves freely in the pivot.
2. Move the reduction shift lever to the most rearward position which is Hi-Range.
3. Push the Low-Range Lever inward until it stops. Pull it out slightly, no more than 1/16".
4. Tighten the cable clamp nut at the reduction unit shift lever. Done
A lot of other text books where this came from so don't hesitate to ask. Good luck.
scotty worte:
i was not aware that the 208 was ever considered a "shift on the fly" case. i also know that you could get a 208 behind an auto-at least in 1981 and up years. ive got an 81 cherokee that was originally equipped with an auto and 208. last and not least,what is your source on the 219 requiring motor oil? i had read somewhere that the 219 also uses ATF. makes sense,the 229,which also uses a viscuous coupling requires ATF,so it seems the 219 would as well,since they are internally similar.
when you speak of early models,are you referring to the BW quadra trac? no new process case ever had an optional low range.
just wanting to help eliminate any confusion...
JOE.C worte:
went under truck ,transfer case is a np219, drained the gray foul stinkin oil out, replaced with 10w30.as instructed in original owners manual.no luck movin shifter yet though
irbob worte:
Oops, I forgot the disclaimer. The Chilton and Jeep Bibles are often different from what's on the road so as always verify what's actually on your own rigs to prevent any mishaps.
I thought that was kind of strange also with the oil in the 219 but at any rate check it anyway. Sometimes it's safe to replace with what comes out, sometimes.
BW and Chilton can answer the other concerns of my previous post. There are to many configurations and not enough time to list everything. There are also reconfigurations done on top of that. Good luck and above all have fun.
irbob worte:
Oh, looks like there was oil in the 219. That's what your manual said to put in it? Strange, I guess Mr. Chilton read your owners manual.
That shifter has me stumped. Has to be internal. Did u disconnect the linkage and try to move the shifter and linkage separately to isolate the binding?
[ May 21, 2002: Message edited by: irbob ]</p>
FSJman worte:
try it stoped with the tranny in nuetral engine on if that don't work try it with it off
thats how i half to do it with my select trac sometimes
River Beast worte:
Block the wheels with about 1" of movement and crawl under your driver's side... find the linkage to the QT, it has a cotter pin holding a smal link from the lever to the QT. Take it off, put the trans in neutral (engine off) and try moving the QT lever by hand while rocking the rig back and forth. May be a little harder than usual without the linkage so it's ok to get "hateful" with it to a degree... but don't get carried away (hehe). All the way forward is lo range, and back is high range. The neutral position is in the middle. If it hasn't been used in a while you may have some caked crd under there... or previous owner may have rigged something up to stop the actuation. Keep us informed of what you find. Kinda curious on this one....
Another thought just hit me... your linkage may be binding, too. After my body lift, I found that I foregot to install the linkage adapter to the QT. (DUH!!!) I had to crawl under the rig to switch from hi to lo from under the rig cuz I left the linkage disconnected cuz it bound up all the time...
scotty worte:
keep in mind that his quadratrac should be a new process 219,not a BW 1350.(you guys really need to use the numbers when talking about 1980 and later 'cases). i have heard that a person may find the BW in a very few 1980 models,probably to use up leftover supplies,but i have never talked to someone that has actually seen one. it would have to be a very early manufactured 1980.
JOE,is your front diff on the driver side? you have an auto tranny,yes?
i have never had luck with the rolling/shifting thing with my 219. sometimes it wanted me to shut it off in order to shift it with no grinding,sometime it would let me just shift with it running. at any rate,moving slightly never made it grind any less.
at any rate,it may have internal troubles,or it may simply be "frozen". sometimes,if the previous owners never,ever shifted,and never,ever changed the fluid,it could simply be funked into place. changing the fluid a couple of times,and moving the lever on the t case will hopefully loosen it up.
irbob worte:
You've got a NP208(part-time unit,shift on the fly) if the trans is manual and a NP219(full-time unit,exspensive VC) if it's an auto trans. Now what does this mean? Not to much because there is only a couple of adjustments that can be made if needed.
The most common problems with these cases are linkages out of adjustment which is a quick fix or warn mode forks which is an overhaul.
Check linkage adjustments first before anything if your having problems moving the lever. This may sound like a text book and there is a reason for that.
Check the fluid level of case. 208 needs Dextron II and 219 needs 10w30 motor oil.
Early models with a manual linkage have a shift rod with two holes. Two adjust it put the hand lever into neutral and loosen the adjusting nuts on the shift control rod. Then put the case control levers in the neutral position and tighten the adj nuts. That's it.
Early models that are equiped with a cable controlled reduction unit have an adjustment where as the later one with the lever unit can not be adjusted. Now if yours is equipped with a cable controlled reduction unit there are two features that can be operated manually: the lock-out feature and the engagement of the optional Low Range Reduction Unit. Since the lock-out is a vacuum actuated unit, there are no external adj that can be made, other than making sure that all vacuum lines are in place, connected, and not damaged in any way.
The reduction on early models unit is actuated by a shift cable and can be adjusted like this:
1. Loosen the nut which clamps the cable to the shift lever pivot. Make sure the cable moves freely in the pivot.
2. Move the reduction shift lever to the most rearward position which is Hi-Range.
3. Push the Low-Range Lever inward until it stops. Pull it out slightly, no more than 1/16".
4. Tighten the cable clamp nut at the reduction unit shift lever. Done
A lot of other text books where this came from so don't hesitate to ask. Good luck.
scotty worte:
i was not aware that the 208 was ever considered a "shift on the fly" case. i also know that you could get a 208 behind an auto-at least in 1981 and up years. ive got an 81 cherokee that was originally equipped with an auto and 208. last and not least,what is your source on the 219 requiring motor oil? i had read somewhere that the 219 also uses ATF. makes sense,the 229,which also uses a viscuous coupling requires ATF,so it seems the 219 would as well,since they are internally similar.
when you speak of early models,are you referring to the BW quadra trac? no new process case ever had an optional low range.
just wanting to help eliminate any confusion...
JOE.C worte:
went under truck ,transfer case is a np219, drained the gray foul stinkin oil out, replaced with 10w30.as instructed in original owners manual.no luck movin shifter yet though
irbob worte:
Oops, I forgot the disclaimer. The Chilton and Jeep Bibles are often different from what's on the road so as always verify what's actually on your own rigs to prevent any mishaps.
I thought that was kind of strange also with the oil in the 219 but at any rate check it anyway. Sometimes it's safe to replace with what comes out, sometimes.
BW and Chilton can answer the other concerns of my previous post. There are to many configurations and not enough time to list everything. There are also reconfigurations done on top of that. Good luck and above all have fun.
irbob worte:
Oh, looks like there was oil in the 219. That's what your manual said to put in it? Strange, I guess Mr. Chilton read your owners manual.
That shifter has me stumped. Has to be internal. Did u disconnect the linkage and try to move the shifter and linkage separately to isolate the binding?
[ May 21, 2002: Message edited by: irbob ]</p>