Unlocking Hubs on a NP229?

[ClarkGriswald]

Ok in an effort to keep from breaking things that im not using anyway.. Is it feasable to put unlocking hubs on my 88 G.Wag(no axle disconnects) I have an NP229 and am aware of what would happen if I ran it in 4wheeldrive with lockout hubs on it.. but I am currently not using 4 wheel at all cause my NP229 is funky and the chain is loose. I plan to change to a NP208 really soon so will be putting lockouts on anyway's. Question: Could I run lockouts as long as I stay out of 4wheeldrive? my front diff is really worn out and has a ton of play in it and I would love to shut it off for now until I can afford to go thru the front end. Of course I would disable the linkage from shifting into 4wheel. (it cant anyway its so rusted shut).. Thanks a ton for any advice.. P.S. the manual says not to put on lockouts with a NP229 as that it may roll away even when parked.. but I am assuming this is only when in Fulltime 4wheel.. ???

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88 Grand Wagoneer
D44's front\rear
AMC 360
TF 727
NP 229 (Funky)
Bone Stock (for now)
NO RUNNING BOARDS!

[scotty]

i guess i could see it rolling if you were silly enoug to stop,put it in 4wd,then get out and unlock hubs. i cant see it going anywhere as long as the 2wd mode is functioning properly. as long as you are aware of the possible damage that may occur if you tried to run in 4wd with hubs unlocked, there aint no reason that you shouldnt go ahead and swap on the hubs. especially if youre allready planning a t case swap,and dont really care about your funky 229,anyway.



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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

possible small block chevy "test" swap in near future

[ClarkGriswald]

Well today I changed my motor oil, and my rear differential fluid. I also put on a set of WARN premium(all metal) unlocking hubs. I can say this, my 360 LOVES valvolene 10w40. Also there was less than a pint of lube in the rear diff.. now its full like it should be. I eliminated my need to deal with the front diff right now by putting on the lockouts. (Of course I will remain OUT of 4wheeldrive, you cant make it go into 4wheel without some work anyway so no prob there). My front diff is super loose so its nice to have it "Off" now, I can step on the accelerator on and off without the clunking of the front end. So now with the exception of the front diff and the tranny, all my juices are fresh. Now on to my question. When ya change the tranny filter (727), only a few quarts come out usually right? where is the rest of that ATF if the torque converter drains when its not running? Is it all on top of the valve body? Should I pull the valve body down and drain all that fluid out so I can do a more thorough fluid change??

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88 Grand Wagoneer
D44's front\rear
AMC 360
TF 727
NP 229 (Funky)
Bone Stock (for now)
NO RUNNING BOARDS!

[Brazzy]

The converter holds all the fluid you were not able to drain, you can disconnect the hose at the radiator, and let it pump out with the engine on and the trans in drive but thats a little hard on the trans. There are machines now at service centers that flush all the old fluid out at the time of change. Somebody else may know a couple tricks for replaceing the fluid in the converter.

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Brazzy
Formerly abused 87 G.W. 162k stock
TOW,PKG,727,229,360
The Chariot

[JERRY88GW]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Brazzy:
There are machines now at service centers that flush all the old fluid out at the time of change. Somebody else may know a couple tricks for replaceing the fluid in the converter.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I went to jiffy lube to get the trans fluid and filter changed. To just change to fluid alone it was like $75. http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~zeimet/ubb/frown.gif They wouldn't change to filter, they said that the cross member that holds the transmission up was in the way, and that it needed to be removed.

Well, I went' and bought an $7 filter from autozone about 4 - 5 quarts of ATF and did it all in 1 hour. Much cheaper than $75, plus I know it was done right. And, I didn't have to take the cross member down.

http://www.pesante.com/smile/aerobics_lg_clr.gif



[This message has been edited by JERRY88GW (edited August 22, 2000).]

[ClarkGriswald]

Hey nice smiley jerry!.. What I have always done in the past is to make a drain plug in the tranny pan.. then once I change the filter the first time, I can drain the tranny and replace the fluid. I do this a few times and eventually dilute it enough to where its mostly new then I do another filter change.. (over a few weeks )
Its just that I thought I had read somewhere that the converters are empty until you put it into a gear or even neutral. So this means when the engine is off the ATF would have drained from the T-Convertor. Where did all the rest of the 12 or 14 or whatever is usually in these go?. I have also done the "pump it out one of the cooling lines" move too. with pretty good success.

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88 Grand Wagoneer
D44's front\rear
AMC 360
TF 727
NP 229 (Funky)
Bone Stock (for now)
NO RUNNING BOARDS!

[scotty]

do not attempt to drain the convertor by disconnecting a tranny line. this runs everything in there with no lube. this is very,very bad. http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~zeimet/ubb/eek.gif if you were cool like me,youd have a drain plug in your convertor. if not,you can simply fill and drain it a couple of times to get all the scrungy fluid out,but definately do not run the tranny with no fluid. youll damage the pump,and burn the clutches and bands. defiantely not worth it.



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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

possible small block chevy "test" swap in near future

[ClarkGriswald]

Oh I'm with ya scotty, the two times that I have done that have only been to remedy situations where people have over filled autotrannys. and didnt want to dump the pan again. so i "let a little out" this way like one quart one time and about a half a quart another time.. had another person running the engine so they could shut it off as soon as i told them..
By the way, How did you get to be that cool?? do you just have a converter that has a drain in it? or did you put it in there?? wouldnt that unbalance it though?. hmm
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88 Grand Wagoneer
D44's front\rear
AMC 360
TF 727
NP 229 (Funky)
Bone Stock (for now)
NO RUNNING BOARDS!

[This message has been edited by ClarkGriswald (edited August 22, 2000).]

[JERRY88GW]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ClarkGriswald:
Hey nice smiley jerry!..
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks man, just a little something to brighten the night up.

We can't let porkchop have all the fun.
http://www.pesante.com/smile/bow_lg_clr.gif


[This message has been edited by JERRY88GW (edited August 22, 2000).]

[ClarkGriswald]

Oh, dont even make me figure out how to make these.. http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~zeimet/ubb/cool.gif http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~zeimet/ubb/cool.gif

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88 Grand Wagoneer
D44's front\rear
AMC 360
TF 727
NP 229 (Funky)
Bone Stock (for now)
NO RUNNING BOARDS!

[porkchop]

Hey Clark try this site http://smilecwm.tripod.com/

http://smilecwm.tripod.com/megaman2/X4XSHOT.gif


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'67/'79 Wagoneer mix
"Old Timer"
Body of a 33 year old
Heart and legs of a 21 year old.
Spirit of a 1 year old.
360,TH400,QT,D44's F&R
32X11.50's

"I regret that I have but only one paycheck to give to my Jeep."

[This message has been edited by porkchop (edited August 22, 2000).]

[scotty]

a few convertors actually come with drain plugs. i guess on the first one i was more lucky than cool,the convertor that i got in a tranny from the junkyard jus happened to have one.

when i bought a convertor for my 727 i waited an extra day for them to build me one with a plug. the only disadvantage is you cant get a factory high stall 727 convertor with a plug.

yes it will be unbalanced if you simply drill and tap a hole for a plug. if the convertor shop builds you one,it will be balanced with a plug.

if you ever have to buy a convertor,its well worth any extra time or money and having low stall to have a drain plug-especially if you 'wheel it.

my drain plug has saved my tranny several times. when i rebuilt my 727 i had the convertor cut apart in effort to try and figure out what was wrong with the tranny. you would not believe the mud/funk/sludge that was in there that i could have got out if it had a drain plug! i was very glad that i didnt try and use that sucker...




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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

possible small block chevy "test" swap in near future

[Shane]

I used to do trany flushes at a GM shop. It worked realy slick. You hook up to the trany cooler at the rad. After you run the old fluid out as you pumped the new stuff in you could check the flow through the filter by watching the flow meter on the machine.

The problem with just droping the pan is that your converter does stay half full. It can only drain down as far as the center of the converter. You only get about 4-5 liters out and your trany holds about 3 times that much.

I know some trans. came with drain plugs in the convertor and pan. Why didn't the engineers design all tranys that way?

I like the idea of the plug in the pan and draining and filling several times. Buy a 5 gal pail of Dexron III and use it up. You must have clean fluid after all that stuff.

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1982 J10 Model 25
My Daily driver since 1988