front u-joints

[bignblue]

Anybody have any hints on changing the front double-cardan u-joints out? I can wiggle mine back and forth with my fingers and even I know that's a bad thing! I've read the TSM and came away scratching my head...it seems like there's some special tools involved. Speaking of which, I've looked high and low for the spindle socket...which one do I need? I haven't cut off the RTV the DSPO used to seal the dust caps on the hubs, so I don't know how many splines are there. Can anybody give me an easy way out? I really don't want to pay a shop to do this, because they want to keep my ONLY car for two or three days until they can get around to working on it.

On u-joints, I'm STILL having the driveshaft rumble after flipping the yokes 180 degrees, tapping the bearing caps, cussing, praying and so forth. I'm considering taking it to a driveshaft shop, but there again I have the one-car problem. HEEEEEELLLLPP! Thanks.

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'78 Chero WT
401/4bbl/TH400/BWQT
44s F&R
"Jeep: the toughest 4-letter word on wheels"

[Dean]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bignblue:
I'm considering taking it to a driveshaft shop, but there again I have the one-car problem. HEEEEEELLLLPP! Thanks.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You could remove one DS and drive to the shop with E-drive engaged, or pull the DS at the shop.
I bought my socket at the local discount parts store. There are only a few styles of sockets, mine has 4 lugs and is about 2.5" in diameter.



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'78 Wagoneer Limited
401/Q-trac W/low range
Stock for now.........
have '84 parts rig,
4" rancho lift, 3" body
lift, '78 j20 axles. Whoo
hoo, future 3/4 ton wagoneer.

[Teach]

Been there, as the Beast needed a new yoke and d-train rebuild when I bought her. It didn't look hard to do, but yokes are hard to find down here. Cost 4 bills to have it done, but I don't worry now...

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Teach
'76 Wagoneer
360,Q-T,Edlebrock Intake/carb, D44's, 3.07, really big after market gas tank!
"If it ain't one thing, it's another...."

[JERRY88GW]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Anybody have any hints on changing the front double-cardan u-joints out?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Take a mechanics chisel and pound on the backside of a cap (inside the yoke) to push the cap out. Once you get one cap off than the rest is easy.

Didn't really understand your problem with your driveshaft, but if the driveshaft is rumbleing or vibrating while driving than the driveshaft is out of balance. The best way to fix this is to go to a shop and have it balanced. The cheapo Jeep way is to get two hose clamps. Put them on both sides of the driveshaft, experement with rotating them until the vibration stops.

[scotty]

changing u joints is easy.once youve removed the clips,put the one end over a big socket(bigger than the u joint cap,but not bigger thn the yoke) and use a smaller socket (slightly smaller than the u joint cap) to pound it out.once one cap is out,you can pound on the cross to get the other cap out.the cross will then slide right out. the hardest part of installing the new joint is pounding the caps into the yoke without all the little sticks falling out.put a cap on a hard surface(ground,workbench,big rock if your in the woods)put the yoke on top,slide the cross into the yoke and let it slide down into the cap.pound on the yoke until the cap is in.flip it over and use your smaller socket to poud it in enough to get the clip in.put the other cap on the ground and do the same thing. hopefully all the sticks stay n place,so now all you gotta do is put in the clips and grease it. replaceing the u joints in a cardigan joint is just like this,but i dont really know what you gotta do to that goofy ball thingy...



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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

possible small block chevy "test" swap in near future