JERRY88GW
08-19-2000, 07:35 AM
I've checked at autozone and have found that are brake parts are quite resonbly priced.
My question is:
Autozone lists the rotor without hub $36, hub $52, and rotor with hub $108. How do you disconect the hub from the rotor? I've had the rotor/hub off before to repack the wheel barings, and I thought that the hub and rotor was one piece.
Is there some welding involved, or are the two just bolted on somehow?
ClarkGriswald wrote?
Hm I seem to think the are one piece too . I just went out and crawled underneath and myself and a bee that was also inspecting the rotor agree.. mabye he is talking about a Hub in the sense of .. a lock out hub or the solid hub thats in there.. you dont need to replace that.. i would go to the parts store and make em get em out off the shelf and look at em..
ClarkGriswald wrote?
Wasnt there also a downsized xj grand wagoneer in 88? ive seen em.. my commanche (MJ) has the rotor as its own piece. so mabye he is confusing it with the downsized trucks. ie. xj, mj
JERRY88GW wrote?
Well, I went to the autozone web site and did a search for 88 grand wagoneer, and that are the results that I got.
mark wrote?
ive never done it but im pretty sure that when you press the wheelstuds out the 2 pcs will seperate.
Panther wrote?
marks right, there 2 separate pieces.
The "hub assembly" presses into the rotor with the lug/studs. To separate them, smack out the studs, then pry the hub assembly off the rotor.
My question is the hub assembly the same for the "auto" hub as it is for the manual warn premium hubs? I need to change to locking hubs but don't know if I need a different hub assembly or not....
FSJman wrote?
on my 84 wagoneer with select trac the hubs and rotors are seprate.
Bob Barry wrote?
The easiest way to pop them out without damage is to place the rotor on top of some 2"x4"'s, rest a 2-lb sledge directly on the tip of the stud, and whack the top of that sledge with another sledge. This will pop them off in one hit with no thread deformation. It's cheap insurance to replace the studs with new ones. They are the same.
fulmetal wrote?
OK here is the scoop. The rotor and spindle are 2 seperate pieces on the full size wagonners. To remove the rotor simply remove the caliper then the 2 locking nuts an washer on the outer bearing, then remove. That simople, The spindle onlt needs to have the 6 bolt removed from it to the nuckle. The studs are part of the knuckle. Good luck
JERRY88GW wrote?
fulmetal,
I think you're confused by my question. I want to remove the hub from the rotor. The spindle is a seperate part.
Thanks for all the help guys, I'm going out there right now and pound out those lug bolts.
Ralph wrote?
Jerry88GW: I just had to do this Friday/Saturday, because PepBoys/Advance Auto Parts/AutoZone all had the wrong size wheel bolt listed and I cracked my rotor pounding one in. Pep Boys replaced the rotor, and I bought another one for $29.99 so I could replace both at once.
All the above information is good. By now you've probably tapped out the bolts and found a way to separate the hub from the rotor. When you get them back together, you will likely have a heck of a time trying to hammer the bolts back in place, as they will go most of the way but not completely tight by pouding.
My solution was to just tap the bolts in a little ways with a hammer, then screw the lug nuts on five of them. On the one remaining bolt, first put a 5/8" nut over the bolt, then the lug nut, then tighten the bolt with a breaker bar until it comes completely through. The lugs on the other bolts protect the threads when you use a crowbar against them for leverage. Repeat this procedure for the other five wheel bolts. (Also, the 5/8" nut I used as a spacer was one of the old ones of my front spring shackle.)
GM Killer wrote?
After all is said and done, make sure you re-gorrilla-torque your lugs nuts after driving a
bit. They will come loose. Trust me on this one.....
Ralph wrote:
Any idea how many miles I should go before re-torquing the lug nuts? I made sure they were all at 100 ft.-lbs. after the job.
[ May 23, 2002: Message edited by: irbob ]</p>
My question is:
Autozone lists the rotor without hub $36, hub $52, and rotor with hub $108. How do you disconect the hub from the rotor? I've had the rotor/hub off before to repack the wheel barings, and I thought that the hub and rotor was one piece.
Is there some welding involved, or are the two just bolted on somehow?
ClarkGriswald wrote?
Hm I seem to think the are one piece too . I just went out and crawled underneath and myself and a bee that was also inspecting the rotor agree.. mabye he is talking about a Hub in the sense of .. a lock out hub or the solid hub thats in there.. you dont need to replace that.. i would go to the parts store and make em get em out off the shelf and look at em..
ClarkGriswald wrote?
Wasnt there also a downsized xj grand wagoneer in 88? ive seen em.. my commanche (MJ) has the rotor as its own piece. so mabye he is confusing it with the downsized trucks. ie. xj, mj
JERRY88GW wrote?
Well, I went to the autozone web site and did a search for 88 grand wagoneer, and that are the results that I got.
mark wrote?
ive never done it but im pretty sure that when you press the wheelstuds out the 2 pcs will seperate.
Panther wrote?
marks right, there 2 separate pieces.
The "hub assembly" presses into the rotor with the lug/studs. To separate them, smack out the studs, then pry the hub assembly off the rotor.
My question is the hub assembly the same for the "auto" hub as it is for the manual warn premium hubs? I need to change to locking hubs but don't know if I need a different hub assembly or not....
FSJman wrote?
on my 84 wagoneer with select trac the hubs and rotors are seprate.
Bob Barry wrote?
The easiest way to pop them out without damage is to place the rotor on top of some 2"x4"'s, rest a 2-lb sledge directly on the tip of the stud, and whack the top of that sledge with another sledge. This will pop them off in one hit with no thread deformation. It's cheap insurance to replace the studs with new ones. They are the same.
fulmetal wrote?
OK here is the scoop. The rotor and spindle are 2 seperate pieces on the full size wagonners. To remove the rotor simply remove the caliper then the 2 locking nuts an washer on the outer bearing, then remove. That simople, The spindle onlt needs to have the 6 bolt removed from it to the nuckle. The studs are part of the knuckle. Good luck
JERRY88GW wrote?
fulmetal,
I think you're confused by my question. I want to remove the hub from the rotor. The spindle is a seperate part.
Thanks for all the help guys, I'm going out there right now and pound out those lug bolts.
Ralph wrote?
Jerry88GW: I just had to do this Friday/Saturday, because PepBoys/Advance Auto Parts/AutoZone all had the wrong size wheel bolt listed and I cracked my rotor pounding one in. Pep Boys replaced the rotor, and I bought another one for $29.99 so I could replace both at once.
All the above information is good. By now you've probably tapped out the bolts and found a way to separate the hub from the rotor. When you get them back together, you will likely have a heck of a time trying to hammer the bolts back in place, as they will go most of the way but not completely tight by pouding.
My solution was to just tap the bolts in a little ways with a hammer, then screw the lug nuts on five of them. On the one remaining bolt, first put a 5/8" nut over the bolt, then the lug nut, then tighten the bolt with a breaker bar until it comes completely through. The lugs on the other bolts protect the threads when you use a crowbar against them for leverage. Repeat this procedure for the other five wheel bolts. (Also, the 5/8" nut I used as a spacer was one of the old ones of my front spring shackle.)
GM Killer wrote?
After all is said and done, make sure you re-gorrilla-torque your lugs nuts after driving a
bit. They will come loose. Trust me on this one.....
Ralph wrote:
Any idea how many miles I should go before re-torquing the lug nuts? I made sure they were all at 100 ft.-lbs. after the job.
[ May 23, 2002: Message edited by: irbob ]</p>