exhaust manifold

[JOE.C]

have to replace exhaust manifold gasket any tips on removal.

[Drew M]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JOE.C:
have to replace exhaust manifold gasket any tips on removal.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Soak the bolts in penetrant for a few days first. Make sure the socket fits the bolt heads very very tight to avoid stripping the bolt heads. Don't be surprised in the engine has no exhaust gasket to the head this is how most left the factory. Do install a gasket however b/c the head and manifold surfaces may have warped slightly over the years and cause leaks.
That's about it. Good luck.
-Drew M.

[Bryan Niese]

You did not mention the year of your rig, but if it is a newer one with air tubes on the exhaust manifold, you may want to check those first. I went through the hassle of pulling off the drivers side exhaust manifold for what I thought was a leaking gasket and when I got it off I saw that the air tubes had a big hole in the end that was facing the firewall. It sounded just like a leaking manifold so save yourself some trouble and check this first. BTW, rather than replace the air tube (because I'm cheap & lazy) I just cut a piece of aluminum (from a pop can) to fit the hole and used a bunch of JB Quick Weld and it lasted 6 months before it started to leak again.

------------------
Donzi
1988 GW
Totally Stock

[JOE.C]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Bryan Niese:
You did not mention the year of your rig, but if it is a newer one with air tubes on the exhaust manifold, you may want to check those first. I went through the hassle of pulling off the drivers side exhaust manifold for what I thought was a leaking gasket and when I got it off I saw that the air tubes had a big hole in the end that was facing the firewall. It sounded just like a leaking manifold so save yourself some trouble and check this first. BTW, rather than replace the air tube (because I'm cheap & lazy) I just cut a piece of aluminum (from a pop can) to fit the hole and used a bunch of JB Quick Weld and it lasted 6 months before it started to leak again.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

[JOE.C]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Bryan Niese:
You did not mention the year of your rig, but if it is a newer one with air tubes on the exhaust manifold, you may want to check those first. I went through the hassle of pulling off the drivers side exhaust manifold for what I thought was a leaking gasket and when I got it off I saw that the air tubes had a big hole in the end that was facing the firewall. It sounded just like a leaking manifold so save yourself some trouble and check this first. BTW, rather than replace the air tube (because I'm cheap & lazy) I just cut a piece of aluminum (from a pop can) to fit the hole and used a bunch of JB Quick Weld and it lasted 6 months before it started to leak again.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
my rig is a 1980 jeep j20 with 360 v8,the leak is on left side of block,if standing in front of rig ,have the bolts soaking in liquid wrench as we speak,one question am i going to have to remove all these hoses,ive already color coded them in case i do to remember wich goes where.like you i am also cheap and dont want any costly mistakes.

[Ralph]

I would strongly recommend you use CopperSEAL gaskets when you put it back together.

They cost about $35/pair but are worth it: firstly, they have "dog-leg" ends which make them much, much easier to install than regular gaskets; secondly, they'll seal better and without any added sealant. (I also used Stage8 bolts, which worked well but probably were unnecessary and expensive at $50 for the set.)

I just donated my used-but-in excellent condition AIR tubes to Jeff Kennedy, (614) 879-7283, so maybe he'll give you a good price for them.

Also, when you get the manifolds out you'll be able to remove and inspect the heat riser valve (between the passenger-side manifold and the Y-pipe). Old ones generally need replacement, as do the gasket and studs/bolts holding them. The bottom side is cone-shaped and doesn't have a gasket, so the PITA of this job is bolting it back in evenly to avoid leaks there.

When your manifolds are out, check their faces as well as the exhaust ports on the heads for flatness using a straight edge. If there's any warpage, a machine shop can plane them flat again (probably $15-20 per manifold, no idea how much for the heads.)

Until I recently changed my front leaf springs, the job of changing exhaust manifolds stood out as the most laborious, dirty job I've done on my Jeep. I've done it three times, and each time it took me all night. Enjoy.

Lastly, when you do this job, look ahead to the possibility of doing it again (as when first experimented with double-gasketing, and next when I installed Edelbrock headers). So use anti-sieze compound on all bolts, and remember to check your torque settings one and two weeks after the job.

[This message has been edited by Ralph (edited July 19, 2000).]

[Veepster]

if you are removing the AIR tubes from the exhaust manifold make sure you use new gaskets on the banjo bolts......you will need 14 of them and they cost about a buck a piece at the dealer....OUCH!!

Peace...................BartG