(TOM) Rebuild or Core Exchange?

[Doug B.]

I have a '84 GW (360 cid) with over 155K on the original motor. It still runs strong, and I am planning on overhauling the motor in the next couple of years. My question is which is more practical, efficient, and more economical...removing and overhauling the original motor or exchanging the core for a overhauled motor from say, Napa which is about $1300. Also, should I go ahead and do the same to the 727 transmission and NP 229 transfer case which are also original? I really like this rig, it is so big and HEAVY that it is perfect for the ice and snow up here in Alaska. I plan on keeping this rig for a while.

thanks for listening


23 Jan 2002
I would like to thank everyone for their tips and advice. It has been very enlighting.

[ January 23, 2002: Message edited by: Doug B. ]


Hello all,

I have some more questions.....I took Joe's advice and went looking for an 360 engine that needed rebuilding. I found a couple of engines at a salvage yard that were pulled from wrecks/junked GWs. The salvage yard guarranteed that the blocks/heads were not cracked and that they were rebuildable. They want $245 for one of them, and one of the two had everything attach to it except the exhaust manifolds and one valve cover. My question is: What else do I look for that would rule out that this engine is rebuildable?

All you guy/gals help has made my FSJ adventure fun and enjoyable, and I am looking forward to doing my first engine overhaul. Thanks a bunch.

[ February 02, 2002: Message edited by: Doug B. ]

[ February 05, 2002: Message edited by: Sitting Bull ]</p>

[Sgt. Dave]

Probably all around, if you want to keep everything stock, would be a replacment engine. 3 Year\50,000 mile warranty or better. Some have 100,000 mile warranty. If you want something special, at least for the AMC 360, you'll have to build it.

[bigwillys]

Be carefull with cheaper core/exchange rebuilds, i just put in a chevy 350 from NAPA, and it was total junk. The heads had striped threads for the intake bolts, the oil pan gasket wasnt installed right, and after 100 miles, the rear main leaks. This was a really cheap motor, but still. I'm not saying that all of them will be this bad, but jus watch out.

[joe]

I'd stay away from the chain store motors too especially Autozone, Checkers etc. They don't use quality parts in them and they're not built by mechanics but rather by "assemblers". Some NAPA stores do sell good motors though. They don't do them in-house they all contract them out. Check to see who actually does the motors for your local NAPA and then check that company out about quality/reputation etc.
Personally if you're looking two years down the road anyway buy a used motor and rebuild it yourself. If you can read a shop manual and have a few tool(the rest you can rent), follow directions and and pay attention to detail and take your time and don't fudge on specs and use quality USA parts(no China/Taiwan stuff) you can do it. This isn't rocket science...
It may not be cheaper in the long run if you need to rent/buy tools or have to ship the block and heads to get the machine work done but you will "know" everthing is up to factory specs.
It can be a little intimidating the first time but the first motor I ever rebuilt I needed to buy some tools but I was young then and knew I'd be using them again but the rebuild came out great. Another bonus is when you get your first one done you get that all over warm and fuzzy feeling [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Lindel]

I couldn't agree with -joe more!! If you take your time, use a little care, you'll come out with a quality product, and you'll know exactly who to thank.

Rebuilding engines isn't hard at all, just a little time consuming. Attention to detail, and measuring twice is the key. (Also being able to keep track of small parts, and where they fly, but we won't go into that ).

Seriously, use baggies, and labels to keep parts where they belong, and you won't have any "where did I put that bolt at last month" problems!!

[bigwillys]

I agree, do it yourself, if you have time. Just find a good machine shop for boreing, turning your crank, and that stuff. have them set up your bearings, plasti-guage them and stuff. Also, rear main seals neet to be done CAREFULLY, they leak if they aren't Good luck, go for it [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Dive 30]

Unfortuneately, my wag is a daily driver and I didn't have a back-up out here in IA. So I had to get a reman. motor ASAP. But, it came with a good warranty and has been great so far (three months, 4k knock on vinyl woodgrain) but cost wise was cheaper than machine work on the old block+parts.My .02

Phil

[flhshvlhed]

Doug B. I'm up here in the north with you (Palmer). I have an 85 that I bought for $500, in need of a rebuild (water in the radiator). I have looked at Schuck's, and the one's that I have seen run about $1200-1300. They also have an option for $200, that's a 5/50000 warranty. I have been tossing around the idea of rebuild or replace - I think I'm going w/ the replace option. Depending on what you wnat out of the motor, would depend on which course you take. I have rebuilt numerous SBC's, but am somewhat ingnorant to AMC. I am also planning on going through the tranny and transfer case, prior to putting on the road. If you need any help, get in touch w/ me, and I might be able to help you out.

[Josh D]

Hey all,

Just another.02 on the remans from NAPA and such. Read the small print on the warranty. A buddy of mine, a few years back, bought a clapped out CJ5 w/a 304 that was said to only need a carb and battery to run. We got it running, there was zero oil pressure and the rods were knocking so lowd that it sounded like it was gonna come apart. He put a NAPA reman on the credit card and I put it in for him. Primed oil system correctly and fired it up. Ran good for a week, then hung a valve. Pulled the head and took it into NAPA. They would not honor the warranty because the engine wasn't installed by an ASE mechanic! I happen to be a licensed A&P, so we took my credentials down to NAPA. No go. Funny how one can be licensed to R&R engines from an airplane, but not be good enough for R&R an engine from a Jeep!! Be careful on that warranty issue!!

Josh

[Jerk]

One thing to remember when building...so many forget this, KEEP IT CLEAN!!!! and assemble everything lubed, except for pumping up hydraulic lifters, let the engine do that in the 20 minute break-in period. OK, thats 2 things

[Lindel]

What Matt said!!!

[64Trvlr]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Doug B.:
My question is which is more practical, efficient, and more economical...removing and overhauling the original motor or exchanging the core for a overhauled motor <hr></blockquote>

Here's one other alternative, pick up a good 360 core and take your time rebuilding it. That way it doesn't matter how long it takes or how your tight your budget is, when it's done swap it in. Then your Jeep won't be down for very long.

[Stolen76]

keep one eye open on ebaymotors too ! last week they had AMC factory original (NEW!) 304 short blocks that went for $500. I haven't seen 360's yet, but I'm watchin !