better gas mileage

[1979 wagoneer]

All i want is better gas mileage :D

[stephen43]

good luck smile.gif

[ November 16, 2003, 04:19 PM: Message edited by: stephen43 ]

[tuck]

get a car :D tongue.gif

[over2land]

For me anyway, I am hoping for better mileage with an Overdrive Trans. Putting a Spicer 3053A behind the SBC that's goin in my 715... it'll give me a bit more MPH, or MPG depending on how much of the skinny pedal I use.

[over2land]

Sorry bout the Sig in that post, I thought I'd fixed it. Should be fixed now though.

Edit: And now it's alright in both posts... sheesh.

[ November 18, 2003, 09:33 AM: Message edited by: over2land ]

[J4GRAND]

More MPG. Drive only downhill with a tailwind. Kinda difficult to get better gas mileage out of avehicle that has the aerodynamics of a cinder block.

[klank]

Try this link. (http://www.eagle-research.com/index.html)

And try this for information. (http://www.himacresearch.com/books/secret.html)

[Matthew W. Woodruff]

Use cruise control if you have it; I picked up, oh, about 0.20 more MPG that way

[Green Giant]

I get better mileage............than a semi. Look at it this way, a new(er) comparable size vehicle will have a $300 - $600/month payment and still only get about 16-18MPG. The way I see it is I still come out ahead $$$ wise.

[over2land]

Heh, that's true. And, we can do just about anything we want in most states, and still be emissions legal. (well, ok... those of us with older ones, anyway)

[firechero]

who saves 300-600 a month? i spend that in parts!

[over2land]

So do I, easily... but I'm tyring to keep 3 Jeeps happy...

[River Beast]

Buy a Yugo..... or a Metro... ;)

[Crazy_Jeepman]

Originally posted by 1979 wagoneer:
All i want is better gas mileage :D Change the Speedo Drive gear or don't put as much in LMAO smile.gif tongue.gif tongue.gif

[Lindel]

Just so you know, my 2003 Silverado avg about 19.5 mpg per tank, day in and day out. It has a 4.8L LS1/4L60E with 3.42 gears (only 2wd).

This same drive train is available for $3500 (with the exception of a 5.3L, instead of the 4.8L) from G and R Auto Parts (www.gandrautoparts.com), and is available for a 4x4 at the same cost. The nice thing is this is a brand new drivetrain from a new vehicle damaged in shipping. The price includes the harness, fuseblock in the engine compartment, the tranny and the ECM.

There's no reason at all that this drivetrain can't achieve 18mpg plus in a FSJ. It's pretty much ready to run, and all the adapter parts to install in a FSJ are available from Novak Adapters.

This is the route I plan to take, next spring to bring my Cherokee back to life, and again in the J-truck the following year.

[ November 20, 2003, 11:46 AM: Message edited by: Lindel ]

[The BEAST]

leave in PARK

[gsmikie]

buy my getto bus....

[Wilk]

Go diesel!

[tuck]

if you're going to drop $3000 into a new drivetrain, I would encourage you to look at a diesel conversion..

aerodynamics are another shortcoming of FSJ's.. i don't drive enough miles in my fsj to merit any modifications for the sake of mileage..

i cost/benefit analyze almost everything, the curse of being a finance major.. smile.gif

[FSJ Thing]

Originally posted by tuck:

i cost/benefit analyze almost everything, the curse of being a finance major.. smile.gif My girlfriend does the same D### thing! It drives me up the wall!

"If you buy that forged steel balanced crankshaft we'll have to eat hamberger helper for two months"

"I like hamburger helper and I'm buying the dang crankshaft! If you don't like it, tell your boss how cost effective giving you a raise would be!"

An exurpt from the daily dialog of the Faber Household. :D

[midnytrambler]

Has anybody seen any mileage increases from the TFI or HEI ignition conversions? How about the Howell or Holley fuel injection kits? I'm sure either will improve drivability and starting, but will they return anything in gas savings, or power? I'd like to hear some first hand testimonies on these, so I can justify spending the cash on my '89 Grand.

[AMC258]

Swap in a 258

[mtn goat]

midnytrambler, Further along the cost/benifit analysis how much you really get if one were to pay for for fuel injection.

lets see, lets say you can get a projection unit installed for $1200 bucks, and lets say that gets you 3 mpg better(going from say 12 to 15). Now how many miles would you have to drive to get the cost back. well, if you get 3mpg better and gas costs an average of $1.60, you go from paying 13 cents a mile to 10 cents a mile. Thats a savings of a grand total of 3 cents a mile....work that into the cost of the projection unit...You should pay for the fuel injection in only 40,000 miles.

SO, is that worth it? You decide:P tongue.gif tongue.gif

[SBJeep]

Drive slow. I usually get 12-12.5 on the highway at 70-75. This summer I lost a wheel weight and had to go only 60 or the Jeep would shake violently. To and from Vegas I got 14.5. I'm back down to 12 since I don't have the patience. Maybe you do.

[Mondo Bat.]

Take off the body and weld you seat to the frame rail...
wear goggles.

OR

Put an overdrive tranny in.

OR

but in a 258 with a weber carb and a T5 tranny, I get 22-25 MPG with that.

[badaboom]

Try little tikes at "toys are US".
They have Jeeps.
Runs electrically from battery.
Very affordable.
Weight capacity Poor.

It just goes to show AH its allows something.

[TexasJ10]

I don't think fuel injection should be written off so quick as a less than worthwhile project. Afterall, you can get a very good kit from Customefis.com for $800 and there are other benefits besides fuel economy. EFI engines tend to last longer since they are not dumping unburnt fuel into the cylinders like carburaters do, and they don't react to inclines like carbs do. I think the cost can be easily justified especially if you have a newly rebuilt engine.

[Erick]

Dont accelerate too fast, and avoid braking and stopping when possible. Also with all the weight of FSJs, they can coast for a very long time after a long downhill. Use this momentum to your advantage. This strategy helps me to get the most out of my last quarter-tank of gas.

[Don S]

..
Erick.. Good ideas! I wrote down a bunch the other day.
... The engine converts gasoline to heat as the power source. Fifty percent of the heat is wasted unused and is dissipated though the radiator and exhaust system. Large cubic displacement engines consume more fuel than smaller engines but this is not a ‘hard’ fact.

... Here is a list of a few mechanical things that can effect fuel mileage. Cam and ignition timing, cam lift, duration and valve size. Fuel delivery systems, and exhaust scavenging systems. Operating temperatures of fuel and engine. Type of transmission, gear ratios, type of tires, tire size, the tire pressures and the wheel alignment. The vehicle speed, the load, the wind speed and direction. The list can continue on including the gasoline and of course the driver.

Is it possible that larger wider tires require less ‘toe in’ that could reduce drag?

The driver knowledge and ability is the big factor for achieving the best fuel mileage if the vehicle is in proper condition. Make sure the odometer in the vehicle is showing correct mileage. Keep a record of all fuel amounts, the mileage and the Miles Per Gallon between each gas-up. The record can be helpful in spotting problems with the engine when there is a sudden drop in mileage. Full tank amounts will vary due to air trapped in the tank but the MPG will average out in the long run.

Here are a few thoughts about saving fuel.

First thing a driver will notice when they start to conserve fuel is it will agitate other drivers around his vehicle. Please be considerate of other drivers who have no concept of your economy driving. The other drivers want to race to the next stoplight and remember, if they don’t get there quick enough they won’t get to stop!

1. Think about driving as an art while doing so. Stop rubber-necking, turn off the music, the cell, and drive.

2. Install a dash-mounted vacuum gauge and use it. As the fuel mileage drops the vacuum needle drops. Try to prevent the needle from dropping below five inches. Readings will change with altitude changes.

3. Drive as if you had a fresh egg taped on the accelerator AND brake pedals.

4. Apply accelerator and brake pedals smoothly.

5. Reduce speed as much and as soon as possible. Speeds above 50 MPH eat into the pocketbook!

6. Scan far ahead of your vehicle for traffic control signals and things that will allow you to ‘get off the gas’ sooner so you don’t have to ‘hit’ the brakes as hard – later. The over use of brakes means fuel has been wasted.

7. Drive as if your afraid your brakes are in poor condition and you are trying to save them.

8. Purchase your fuel in the morning when it’s cool and keep the tank full.

9. Air you tires up when they are cold and on the plus side of the recommended pressure and check them often especially on cold days.

10. Small amounts of high quality low ash Out Board 2 cycle oil in the fuel (less than ¼ Oz per gallon) will clean and lubricate and reduce friction in the following items for better fuel mileage and life, electric gyrator fuel pumps, carburetor/injector parts, spark plugs, valve stems, compression rings and EGR systems.

11. Air dams can enhance cooling and reduce aerodynamic drag. Bug shields, sun visors, wind deflectors and large outside mirrors can reduce fuel mileage.

12. The effect of heavy loads is detrimental to fuel mileage and brake life.

13. Modifying a vehicle with lifts and large wide tires is detrimental to fuel mileage and brake life.

14. Cruise control may save fuel in ‘flatlands’ but may not be economical in hilly country.

15. In hilly country do not allow the down hill run to cause engine ‘braking’ i.e. slowing down the vehicle unnecessarily. Run your fastest speed at the bottom of a hill and the slowest at the top. If you are on long steep grades it is very difficult to stop while going down hill. On these long grades use engine ‘braking’ and even down shift for added speed control and to save the brakes.

16. Allow the engine to warm up and/or drive gently till it does. Cold engines get poor fuel mileage.

17. Put the transmission in neutral or stop the engine when long waits in traffic are encountered i.e. train crossings.

18. Reduce the Air Conditioning and the electrical demands on the alternator. Fancy lights and sound systems burn extra gasoline and bother others eyes and ears.

19. Hey!.. wake-up!! do you have any other ideas?

I posted this mess at;
http://groups.msn.com/TexasNissanTrucksTNT/messages.msnw

Have a good one http://www.michiganjeepers.com/forums/images/graemlins/popcorn.gif and CUL.. Don S..

[loborph]

I was getting 16mpg after I put on my Jacob's ignition and leaned the carb out. But then I lifted it and put on the 33's - now its down to a predictable 12-13mpg .