Rookie Question

[olin18]

I am sorry for asking a question that to many may seem stupid.
My GW is the first vehical I have ever had that has a carb, and it is the first V8 I have had also. The other vehicals I have had have/are all 4cyl with FI.
When I start the GW after it has been sitting I let it run about a min and then take if off high idel, let it sit for another 30 sec or so. Sometime (usally when it isn't that cold) I will put it in gear and it will drive off no prob. Other times I will put it in gear and it will stall under the load. I find that if I let it warm up longer and then put it in gear I don't run into this prob.
My questions are... Is this perfectly normal? How long should it take to warm up to the point that I can drive off without worrying about stalling at the next stop? If this isn't normal, what may be the cause?
Again I am sorry for what may be a silly question, but I have only been driving this carb..ed engine for a week now and I am still feeling it out. Thanks for any help.

[gsmikie]

thats one reason why they came out with fi i hate to let the wife drive a car with a carb it seems like its never right again when it cold it will run fast and you can drive it but if its a little warm the choke is inbetween cold and warm and its not closed enough to let you drive and it will stall if you let it run 2-3 min it will run fine it sounds like you have one in good shape and working good you should try one that is not working and you would know what im talking about

[Shaggin' Wagon]

You may want to try a carb rebuild and see if that will get it a little more consistent. I'm in SC and if it has sat for only a few days I have to pump it 6 or 8 times and let it for about a min before headin out. Even then it takes 5 or 6 min to smooth itself out completely. Accept it and love it!

[Stuka]

With my jeep even if its sub freezing temps, I pump it once, turn over starts first pop. Let it warm up for 5 mins until the high idle drops (electric choke). Then drive off.

Carbs arent computer controlled to have the perfect mixture no matter what. My nissan I can start it and drive off...although I dont. As its bad for the engine...I always let it wamr up a bit so the block has time to expand, so the tolerances arent so tight.

[turtlejoe]

olin18 - especially on this board, there is no such thing as a stupid question. There's no need to apologize since everyone here is more than willing to help - unlike some other places on the web. We've all been in the same situation at one time or another, whether it's a carb, tranny or transfer case.

Your carb sounds pretty normal to me, especially as the weather turns colder. Mine chugs a little bit on start up when it's below 50, but that's as bad as it gets. I let it run for a couple of minutes and off I go. Shaggin' is right on too - that a rebuild may help smooth it out a bit.

Good luck!

[olin18]

Thanks very much for the info everyone. Sounds like I don't have a problem, and that is a good thing. I know that a carb rebuild would probably be a great Idea, seeing as I have no Idea how the PO treated this one. But I have a bunch of other stuff to get "put back together" before I go and do any upgrading. My plan is to fix the broke stuff then make the fixed stuff better.
Thanks agian. This really is a very great forum. My Jeep and myself really feel like this is a great place

[olin18]

That brings up another thing that has been on my mind about the carb. When the Jeep starts in the morning, and is at high idel. Will it come down by it self, or will it stay at high idel until I kick it down myself. The reason I wonder is... When I go out and start the Jeep in the morning, I usally let it run while I go back in and grab my cup of coffee for the way to work. but when it is cold out I have been letting it idel high for a min or two, then kicking it down, then going in for coffee, then coming back out and going to work. Could I just start it, let it high idel, go for coffee and let the jeep do the kick down? If I could do that, then I could make it to work 2 min faster. Does anyone know a good sourse to read/learn about the carb.

[The Preacher]

Welcome Olin.

The first thing I did when I bough my rig in April was replace the carb with a Holley. Don't know much about carbs myself but the things you are describing sound normal to me. My new carb acts pretty much the same way. It wants to run high after initial start but I usually kick it down with a tap on the pedal.

Owning one of these rigs will truly be an enlightening experience for you. It sure has for me. This board is great but it also helps if you have a gear head friend around who can help when it comes time to start wrenching.

Again, welcome smile.gif

[Bob Barry]

I would look for a vacuum leak; search the archives for the usual and often unusual sources for them on FSJ's. Our '88 GW did the exact same thing you describe throughout last winter.

Over the summer I rebuilt the carb and found a cracked vacuum connector causing a vacuum leak. Now, even when stone-cold, I can put it gear and drive off. So there is hope.

[The Preacher]

Good point Bob.

That happened to me too.

[Torque]

http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/2150carb/
good site to explain the working of a carb in particular the 2150 2bbl

http://www.recarbco.com/
a good site fpr trouble shooting carb and emmision problems(go to the tech section)

[Va-Rob]

Welcome,

I guess this is where I started with IFSJA before this web site was here. That stock carb always gave me trouble and I could never get it running right. I did the edelbrock carb and manifold swap and never looked back. ( twice 83 and my 90 )

My recomendation would be first to call around to different shops and talk to the shop forman and ask if they have a really good "Carb Man" to work on a motorcraft 2150. If they do, take it in and let them either rebuild or adjust it out. Stalling and poping is never normal no mater what the conditions.

Rob

[DjD]

Olin, if it starts and immediately runs good in warmer weather, but stalls (like flooded) before warmed up in colder weather, I think you should try adjusting the choke.

Is my rig the only one that needs about 3 choke adjustments a year?

Before you start it on a cold morning, blip the throttle to close the choke plate, take the top off the air cleaner and check the position of the plate. My guess is it's totally closed, making the mixture too rich until the engine warms up and starts to open the choke. It should be open a bit before you start it.

This is how I adjust mine: http://www.ifsja.org/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=013806

Choke adjustments/re-adjustments should be done before the first start of the day.
Good luck!