6" rear springs to match SOA

[jettfuel]

I was wondering if anyone has had a set of rear springs custom made to match the lift of the SOA. I don't want to use a block and was thinking it would be less work and a little cleaner than a shackle flip. Any thoughts why you couldn't do this? Thanks.

[Hump]

If you replace the rear springs you are going to do way more work than flipping the shackles. You could go with a shackle flip and 3 or 4" lift springs. The only problem with that is you're going to have stock spring rate up front with a stiff rate in the rear. I don't know how adversely that would affect the handling and ride, but i'm sure you would notice it.

[River Beast]

Have you thought of my rear shackle inversion kit? If you SOA the front using stock springs, uyou can install my rear kit with your stock springs and be set up with NO BLOCKS... email me if interested... several members have my kit already.

You will maintain your ride and flexability and increase droop of rear at the same time.

[j20m715]

River Beast
Please e-mail all the info you can on your rear kit. I am using a 76 j10 frame & rear springs. Will your kit work for me ?
E-mail is Norris117@attbi.com
Thanks again.

[River Beast]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by j20m715:
River Beast
Please e-mail all the info you can on your rear kit. I am using a 76 j10 frame & rear springs. Will your kit work for me ?
E-mail is Norris117@attbi.com
Thanks again.<hr></blockquote>

I have two kits available for order:

76-91 Wagoneer/Cherokee
76 and later J10/J20 Series Trucks


I'll email you the info...

[Panther]

JCE used Rusty's 6" springs in the back with SOA front.
http://web.infoave.net/~sentury/photo.htm

Personally I would go with the SF instead.

[Stuka]

Last I checked Rusty's 6" kit used 4" springs and 2" blocks for the rear.

I would go with the shackle inversion setup unless your rear springs are just shot.

[WINGO]

Buy Riverbeast's kit if your jeep looks like the photo in my sig.

I am in the process of writing a review of the installation of the kit which will be posted on the site.

[Tim728]

I would be interested in info on your kit Todd, My e-mail is tim728@juno.com I have a 1989 GW.
Also if anyone has any info on a soa on a later model GW (89) I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks-Tim

[Hubjeep]

I would be interested in info on your kit Todd, My e-mail is tim728@juno.com I have a 1989 GW.
Also if anyone has any info on a soa on a later model GW (89) I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks-Tim
Let me first off say that SOA is nothing new to me, my CJ has been SOA for years with D44 flat-top knuckles and high-steer arms. I drive it 5+ hours a few times every year to various off-road events (35" tires and sway-bar, it actually handles nicely).

I do plan to drive my GW considerable distance to off-road events (possibly across country), please let me know if GW soa would be much different from my CJ (if anything I figure it would be more tame due to a longer wheelbase).

I have searched for SOA prior to this post, and think SOA will be the way to go chiefly due to two reasons:
-Leafs can be easily added to make up for heavy diesel engine.
-Ride comfort.
-Allow me to run 33" tires, an alternative to re-gearing (better highway cruising).

I plan to go with the kit above to attain the same height in the rear as front as well as provide nice perches.

My only questions pertain to steering. On the CJ I have two high steer knuckles bringing tie rod and drag link up, here I have read about using only a pass. side one (keeping the tie-rod in it's current (low) position). Will flat-top knuckles from other vehicles have the eye where the tie-rod connects to in the same spot as the factory GW knuckle (at the same height?)?

Thanks,
John :cool:

[Tad]

...My only questions pertain to steering. On the CJ I have two high steer knuckles bringing tie rod and drag link up, here I have read about using only a pass. side one (keeping the tie-rod in it's current (low) position). Will flat-top knuckles from other vehicles have the eye where the tie-rod connects to in the same spot as the factory GW knuckle (at the same height?)?

Thanks,
John :cool:
Howdy John,
What you describe for your CJ is Hi-Steering (Hy-Steer), everything is up above the springs using milled & tapped flat top knuckles on both sides along with Hi-Steer arms for both sides.
What you are reading here about leaving the tie rod below the springs and connecting the drag link to a Hi-Steer arm on a passenger side flat top is commonly refered to as Cross-Over (X-Over) steering.
Both setups are in wide use with FSJ's and many other SOA'd rigs, on everything from DD's to trail only rigs.

Your GW has a front D44.
FSJ D44 flat tops from 74-76 (some 77's depending on build date) and 73-77 D44's from GM's are direct swaps and pretty common.
I would imagine a quick post in the wanted section would locate a FSJ one for you rather quickly.
Yes, it will be in the correct location/height.