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View Full Version : Dropping the gas tank to do rear springs......


Iron Horse
11-15-2001, 04:29 AM
Okay I gotta drop the tank to get to that PITA front spring bolt. See this post, HERE (http://www.ifsja.org/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=003046), for the rest of the story.

First question: Do I need to completely remove the tank or can I get away with just dropping it a little. I thought that I read that you only need to drop it a little. If I only need to drop it a little, will it stay up there enough for me to load/unload from a trailer?

The Jeep is going back to the Spring shop for them to fix their screw-up on the rear springs (see above post). The trailer I'm using does not have a winch so, the jeep has to be driven on and off. Gimme your thoughts and advice.

Thanks,

reddog
11-15-2001, 05:20 AM
What a bunch of IDIOTS !! Take that main leaf and wrap it around his head!!! JK (sort of) :D

Sorry to hear of your experience. Since your stuck with messin with the tank I would suggest if it has not been off before to drop it all the way and replace the fuel lines. I know it is a pain but at least it will be done. Think if you have a problem in the future with them and had to drop it again. JMHO

Kerry

Iron Horse
11-15-2001, 05:25 AM
Red, the tank was off 2 yrs ago, for replacement. Unfortunately that was before I grew a "pair" and decided to do most of my own work, including the hard, messy stuff. :D
So, I have no experience with this procedure, but looks like I'll be able to add to my abilities here real soon. :rolleyes:

Andy

[ November 15, 2001: Message edited by: Iron Horse ]

Crazy_Jeepman
11-15-2001, 05:27 AM
I agree pull the tank completely. Clean it up in the frame rail. Get a good paint and paint the inside frame rail. help prevent any further rust. ;)

andy d
11-15-2001, 07:55 AM
yup and just for grins replace the brake line too,unless that was why the tank was out last time. run the fuel down til the light comes on and then run it some more. less gas the better. if the tank was off 2yrs ago, it shouldnt be too bad of a job. i would remove the tank and then use a come along to pull it up on to the trailer

Iron Horse
11-15-2001, 08:21 AM
What about jury rigging some kind of small, temp. fuel supply (1 gal can or something)?

The come-along that I have is a POS, that and ratcheting that thing seems like a real PITA. :eek:

Andy

NYC
11-15-2001, 08:28 AM
My vote's for dropping the tank completely... but I'm not doing the work ;) . I did my springs without completely removing the tank - I did that a month before.

Tip: The access panel for the sending unit is under the carpet under that back seat.

Kimbrough
11-15-2001, 08:52 AM
NOTE: I didn't HAVE to drop my tank - it has a captive bolt on that side. I dropped mine anyways and cleaned the grime off the frame and the tank, By the way, I also threw away the plastic liner and drilled more holes in the skid plate. Painted it black. When I think back on it, I wouldn't want to do it again ;)
Freinds are great to have around when yer reinstalling it!!!
Oh yeah, I think you gotta remove the rear driveshaft to drop the tank. Good luck!

[ November 15, 2001: Message edited by: Kimbrough ]

andy d
11-15-2001, 09:16 AM
K ive done the deed 4 times and never once dropped the d/s. iwas gonna post the temp gastank thing. i did that to run my wag to the welder. choose your PITA :D

Iron Horse
11-15-2001, 09:32 AM
Andy d, What did you rig up for a temp. gas tank? Details, details. :D

Andy H

Panoscopic
11-15-2001, 09:38 AM
This is a real timely topic as I have been doing my homework and trying to make the decision of insource/outsource the spring replacement. My biggest worry with taking it to a shop is what Iron Horse's situation - you get it there and they screw if up, or end up trying to charge you double.

Since my Wag is from Califorinia, the rust has not got to it yet. Just to test the waters, I've soaked some of the U-bolts with WD40 and have been able to loosen them with no problem. Of course, my big worry is on the driver side bolt. I read in the technical section that the nut is welded on the gas tank side, but the weld breaks when you try to torque it. Is this the case? If I was able to loosen by only turning from the bolt on the outside, I should be OI, right? Problem is getting the WD40 to the nut.

Iron Horse
11-15-2001, 09:54 AM
Panoscopic, soak that PITA front bolt real good and give it a whirl. Make it the very first bolt you try, that way you'll know whether or not you want to proceed on your own.

If it comes out okay, I expect you to jump around and toast the Jeep Gods immeadiately. :D While you're doing that, put in a good word for Iron Horse....I need all of the help I can get.

Andy

WudreauxTWW
11-15-2001, 03:08 PM
Here is a "Captain Obvious" response, but I did it and know that someone else could too. Pay close attention to how the strap going across the tank is situated. It only fits one way and is an absolute PITA to put back on under the best conditions, much less getting it bolted up on one side and start wrestling with the other side just to realize you have the darn thing backwards....

Ditto on the previous post about replacing all of the rubber hose in your fuel line. I didn't do that and was back under the wag a week later dealing with a cracked hose right at the sender unit.... another major PITA.

WagonBurner
11-15-2001, 05:39 PM
I recall tin snips being very valuable to me in dropping my gas tank skid plate. I think I got the dremel in there too. I havent put a plate back on, just got some strapping to put ot up. I had to drill a hole but its behind the drivers seat rear mount on the hump outta the way.

tito
11-16-2001, 01:20 AM
IH,

What a story, unfortunately it's familiar for a lot of us. Reminds me of my experience with a trans shop. Mechanic forgot to tighten the driveshaft u-joint straps before test driving it. They tried to charge me an extra $70 on the estimate. When I asked why, the manager said the u-joints were worn out. I told him that was strange since they were only 2 months old. He didn't know I was outside when the mechanic came limping the Mistress back to the shop on front wheel drive only. What morons.

A benefit of dropping the tank yourself is what Crazy Jeepman says, you can clean up the inside frame rail. Especially helpful in your part of the country. A suggestion would be to get a rust converter paint. I use PUR, which is supposed to be the best. Other FSJr's may have different recommendations. PUR actually bonds to the metal and coverts the rust to a ceramic like material which seals the metal. Its like the metal has a ceramic glaze on it.

When putting on my lift kit, I had to drop the tank. Wasn't as hard as I expected, just time consuming. The trick is getting everything unbolted or loose. I'd start to drop the tank some and it would shift or bind because I'd missed a bolt somewhere. I used small floor jacks under 18 inch 2X4's as cross supports. Hey an opportunity to justify buying that extra floor jack!

Good Luck

littlechief
11-16-2001, 04:58 AM
Ahh, gotta love that tank...hehehe NOT. pulled ours off about 6 times now, once for the lift and a buncha times trying to sort out some fuel probs that I had. Me and my sweety can drain the tank, drop it and slap her back in again in under 2 hours now and thats in the bush at camp. One suggestion that I have is do everything that you might want to do to it while your there.ie. fuel lines , vent lines, vents, fuel sock etc. I also powersprayed my tank out to get any lingering crud out of there as well. Enjoy smile.gif

BigStupid
11-16-2001, 06:08 AM
Little Cheif I'm about to remove my tank this weekend. You powerspayed it? I have a lot of sediment and I want to spray it out. Did you just use water? Wouldn't that damage it or hurt the engine? Did you use a pressure washer or what? please get back soon if you can. I could use this info real soon. Thanx
:D

littlechief
11-16-2001, 06:19 AM
yep, what I did was drained as much out of it as I could, removed the vents etc. then I brought her down to the carwash and sprayed the crap out of her, sprayed through the fuel p/u hole and through both vent holes, dump as much water out as possible then sprayed her some more, drained her again and brought her home. I used a hand bilge type pump to drain out the fuel and used same again for sucking out most of the water. Then I let it sit for three days to ensure that it dried good before I put her back together. My tank is plastic so I had no worries about rust, just lots of scum that had built up over the years. I think that if I had a steel gas tank I probably would of tried to give it a coat of oil inside once dry to fight rust. Of course I did all of that and it still didnt solve my prob. but cant see how it could hurt to get rid of any stray junk that was in there. :D