View Full Version : The Which Hose Goes Where Huh???
ChickenTender
07-18-2002, 08:25 AM
Hey all! HELP! smile.gif This is a little on the "stupid-no-big-deal" side, but here goes, just 'cause... dammnit I want it hooked up right.
So last week I pulled the instrument cluster out of my '80 chero. My gauges were turning off and on randomly (and I need a couple new bulbs in there). Got everything mostly happy underthere with a bit of resurfacing and contact cleaner: the gauges seem to work more often than not.. tho I think that may be the harness getting tired.. no?) Now my little problem:
The three vac hoses that connect to the left side for the the OFF/HEAT/DEFROST acctuator were barely hanging on and two fell off as I pulled the cluster out of the dash so I couldn't mark them and the third came off right as got it out.
Anybody know which one should go where? .. And where does each one lead??? I plugged them back in randomly but now the dial on the front panel is acting mighty strange. It's more annoying than anything but still..
Cheers,
CT
Originally posted by ChickenTender:
Got everything mostly happy underthere with a bit of resurfacing and contact cleaner: I need to do the same thing...what contact cleaner did you use and where did you use it? (Yeah, I know...the contacts, but are you talking like just the light bulb contacts, or is there more)
Sorry, can't help you with the hoses...I'm at work :eek: so I can't exactly go out and pull my Wag apart right now...
ChickenTender
07-18-2002, 08:44 AM
I just used electrical contact cleaner that I've had in the house for awhile, picked it up at Fred Meyer (or Radio Shack maybe). It's just the little can with a brush attached to the nosel. That and the fine brass wire brush (usually comes in an engine rebuild brush set) to get rid of the more heavily corroded areas. I had some build up on all of the pin connectors which I cleaned up by brushing with the cleaner (which dries really quickly) and then carefully brushing in there and hitting with the cleaner a 2nd time afterwords. Pretty much stayed away from the board with the brush except on a few places but I cleaned all the stamped circuitry up on the board with the brush on the cleaner can. The biggest ***** was that one of the pin connectors, the one that supplys the oil pres gauge snapped off right at the board and was stuck inside the plug. I pulled it out tried to solder it back on but it would take.. just not enough suface area for the bond. So.. I carefully dripped solder down into the connector pin while holding it with some needle nose pliers and then tried the solder to the board again. It seemed ALOT more stable and seems to be holding. It be alot nicer if they didn't make the **** things HOLLOW! ;)
Sitting Bull
07-18-2002, 08:57 AM
Don't have Jeep in front of me, I'm working by memory...so this may be wrong.
Suck on all three hoses. 2 of them you will hear a little door flapping around. The third (no flapping) is the vaccum control, hook it up to the center of the switch. Now for the other 2, one door "flap" will be coming from the center of the dash, the other from the heater core area. The center dash "flap" is the defroster, check the switch to see which one activates it, I think its the rear. That would leave the heater-core hose, hook it to the front side. Give it a test run, if it's backwards, just reverse the two flapper hoses.
Hope this helps...
PhilSine
07-18-2002, 09:29 AM
I just did mine last week. I have this hand tool called a vacuum hand pump. You can probably figure out what it does by its name. Cost about $50 but in my opinion it's a must for our vehicles. Nice thing about it is that it has a guage on it that will directly simulate your engine's vacuum and also let you know if the device being tested is holding vacuum well.If you don't have one, the method Sitting Bull detailed will work perfectly for identifying which hose goes where. You have to listen closely when you apply vacuum.
Any how, down to the question at hand.
The front input goes to the engine, the middle goes to the heater, and the rear goes to the defrost.
The locations are in reference to vehicle front, middle, rear.
Just to re-hash
Forawdmost-engine vacuum
Middle-heater
Rear-defrost
All in relation to front of vehicle.
[ July 18, 2002, 03:33 PM: Message edited by: PhilSine ]
ChickenTender
07-18-2002, 02:44 PM
Cheers all! That did it.. bad strange-sucky-weazy noise is gone and the switch works correctly again. My gauges (except the oil pres) still go off every now and again, but I think that problem is in the harness.
Thanks for the responses!
I should replace the hoses, but that's gonna need to wait for the weekend.
While I'm at it...
Any tips out there for tuning up the motorcraft 2150 2bbl... mixture ajustment and what not.
She seems to lose a bit of power when she gets warm and every so often (seems to be a common symtom on this board) bogs down and hesitates alot under load - ESPECIALLY hills and inclines.
I've already replaced the module and the coil and that seemed to help ALOT, i.e. she doesn't DIE anymore when it happens, but it still happens every once in a while - always when she's good and warm. I'm almost thinking pre-ignition since she used to vapor after she died (again, that hasn't happened in ahwile). I think I'm getting closer. Carb...eh? (I know... rebuild rebuild) ;)
CT
PhilSine
07-18-2002, 03:44 PM
The best way to tune a Motorcraft carb is to replace it with a Holley 4bbl. :D
Well, that's what I have in place.
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