What'd I break this time?

[illegalFSJ]

Well, I finished fixing all the damage the previous owner inflicted on my J-10, so I decided to start making my own! After installing a new motor, I replaced all the vacuum lines, including the ones on the Quadra-trac unit. It seems that I accidently switched them, causing it to be in EMERGENCY DRIVE for the twenty miles it took me to drive to the exhaust shop and back home. (I thought it was steering a bit funny.) Just as I was pulling onto my street, I goosed it a bit and something gave out. Now it still drives but makes a really bad fluttering/ticking/knocking noise from the X-case. Fluttering sound increses with road speed. Any idea what exactly I may have screwed up aside from just "transfer case"? Thanks.

[jode]

Have you tried doing the figure 8s in a parking lot for a few minutes? Maybe it is just sticky? :confused:

[River Beast]

Try the figure 8 as Jode says first. Kinda hard to tell what has happened if anything...don't want to throw stuff out if it's just a stick slip condition... which the figure 8's may cure...

[illegalFSJ]

Ummm, the whole driving in figure 8's sounds like a good idea, but since I removed the case this morning, I don't think it's gonna happen. As soon as I heard the noise, my gut told me that something broke inside the case, which seemed reasonable after driving on dry pavement in E-drive for twenty miles, occaisionally goosing it to hear the sweet sound of my new mufflers. Of course, the gut could be wrong. Could you tell me more about this stick-slip condition, and what parts actually take the strain of E-drive? Thanks.

[River Beast]

Go to my website and look at the QT page... I have some pics of the guts of the center diff...look for any damage similar FIRST... you see something else in there once you tear it down... let's hope not....

Check the splines on the cones and main spiders... let us know what you find in there...

Check the main coupling ring attached to the fork at the top rear of the pass side of the case... this is what engages the E-drive...it's aluminum... if you stripped the splines on that I have one here you can have...

[Bombadier]

wondering....
if your E-drive is on, and you can't disengage it for some reason, and have manual hubs, is it better to run locked or unlocked??

[River Beast]

If you have a QT ( no P/T kit) WITH hubs...

You MUST run the hubs locked in NORMAL mode...
you can run in E-DRIVE with hubs UNLOCKED anywhere...

Several of us here drove in E-drive for many months without a front shaft....no damage can be done this way.

When you run E-drive with hubs unlocked all the drivetrain components will still spin just not engaged at the front wheels...just like you are in 2WD

[ July 27, 2002, 09:08 AM: Message edited by: River Beast ]

[illegalFSJ]

I've got it about half torn down by now. Motivation came from a call to a local tranny shop for a price quote on a rebuilt BW1339. $1070 wholesale cost. So, I'm doing it myself.
How does this aluminum E-drive fork come out? I want a look at this aluminum splined ring. If this was the problem, would the noise still be there after disengaging E-drive? because my noise was still there in e-drive or not. I'll tear apart the clutch packs tonight.

[jode]

I'm gonna be following suit soon...got a quote to pull-reinstall the case for $150 and I figure for that price, it may be worth letting them pull/reinstall...I'm gonna pick up the old one, dismantle it and find out waht was casuing my prob before having them reinstall...depending on what I find, I may fix it, or take the chain and install it in my parts case and use it...hopefully the output shaft on the tranny is OK and the damage is limited to the t-case...BTW I am still driving this thing on whatever broken splines are in it...all I hav eto do is apply the throttle very gently...then there is no popping sound. It sucks tho, cuz this 401 is rebuilt and I've never had the chance to "hit it" since I installed it...can't wait to fix T-case so I can see what she can do! (maybe she can break the new t-case 4 me :( )