Will it fit?

[Baldy]

Hi there

My ride is a 79 Wagoneer. I have an opportunity to buy a 79 J-10 for dirt cheap.
I have not measured anything as of yet so my question is will the "sprung over" D44 (of the J-10)fit in place of the "sprung under" of the Wagoneer? Cheap lift, cheap gear upgrade, hmmmmm

[Stuka]

Yes it will fit. Many people here do spring over's as lifts. The J10 would have been a spring under from the factory.

Just make sure you use new u-bolts and such when you hook it up to your wag. You will also have to do something about lift in the back of the wag. Either a shackle flip, springs, or blocks. Although I don care for 4" blocks, nasty axle wrap.

[Baldy]

Thanx Stuka. From what "buddy" says the J-10 already has a spring over, so I was hoping for a straight ahead swap....the new hardware is not a problem. This thing's turning into my winter project so I will be picking anyones brains out there who is willing to help. Most of my bddys wheel full size PUs :confused:

[Crazy_Jeepman]

First thing the J10 did not come factory spring over, so unless it was modified to spring over it is not, secondly the J10 axle is wider than the Wagoneer Axle but will fit. ;)

[ November 10, 2001: Message edited by: Crazy_Jeepman ]

[Langdon]

The truck axle is wider than the Wag axle. May cause probs. with tire size, necessitating fender trimming. If you're running 35s tho, maybe you already did that... :D

[Baldy]

Yep, you got it Langdon. Fenders are totally gone...there was more rust than fenders anyway. It's actually good to hear that the truck axles are wider. That would get rid of my tire rubbing the spring problem... Would like to get the full range of my steering back...had to set the stops out for the 35s.

[L. Vargas]

So was there anything with spring over that would be basically a bolt on swap?

[River Beast]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by L. Vargas:
So was there anything with spring over that would be basically a bolt on swap?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

SOA's are NEVER a bolt on swap....unless you have aquired one as baldy may have that's done already. ;)

The biggest areas of concern are:
1. Getting the axle at the right angle
2. Steering modifications that may or may not be needed
3. Driveshaft length/ compatability (soem SOA's like me can't use a facotry shaft)
4. Shocks---new or relocated mounts and brakelines.

[L. Vargas]

What about chev Dana 44 or something that has the mount on top? Mine has the narrower frontend and rear, would like to get the wide track on it.

I measured one time and the chev rearend wasnt that much wider, maybe 4" total I think. But figuring out the steering adapters etc. would probably suck.

[L. Vargas]

Nevermind it just came to me that the driveline is on the other side Grrrrrrrrrrrr.

Man there is no easy swap for Jeeps I guess. To used to Chevrolet.

[Baldy]

Yep, RB has it right, there is no direct bolt on spring over for FSJs. I looked at the J-10 and the whole thing was a hack job. Horrible!! I gave in and had custom springs made by a local shop, very happy.

[Bob Barry]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by L. Vargas:
What about chev Dana 44 or something that has the mount on top? Mine has the narrower frontend and rear, would like to get the wide track on it...[snip]...But figuring out the steering adapters etc. would probably suck.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The spring-pads on the Blazer (and K-truck too, I imagine) are supposed to be the same distance apart. If you bought a crossover-steering right front knuckle and steering arm, you would have to fabricate a drag-link. I think that's about as close to a bolt-on that you'll come. I have no idea whether the pinion-angle would be good, though.

[L. Vargas]

So what your saying is that it can be done, thou I would have to use the whole drivetrain pretty much out of a chevy?

Explain the steering again, wouldnt I have to get something going from the steering gear, to the knuckle thing on the chevy axle, then use the stock chevy drag link?

" Hey Baldy where did you get your springs rearched? And how much was it?

This is making me get a head ache.

[Baldy]

Hi there L. I got my new leafs made in Calgary, Canada....Kinda a long ways to go for you from Utah. Eh? smile.gif The guy who did it for me works for a trucking outfit, they do all kinds of suspension and driveline work for big rigs. 4xs are his speciality...cost was 280CND....approx 1.50 US ;) Was the best deal around, my advice is to look around your area for spring "specialists". Best of luck.
Laz

[River Beast]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by L. Vargas:
So what your saying is that it can be done, thou I would have to use the whole drivetrain pretty much out of a chevy?

Explain the steering again, wouldnt I have to get something going from the steering gear, to the knuckle thing on the chevy axle, then use the stock chevy drag link?

" Hey Baldy where did you get your springs rearched? And how much was it?

This is making me get a head ache.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

A little of it can be bolt on using a GM Dana 44 yes, Bob is right...

then you have 2,3,4 to deal with.

As for the High X-Over Steering setup, go to my photopoint pics (link in sig) and go to the high steering album... that should answer most of you questions on the steeing.

[mark]

this front dana 44 that i had in last year bolted bolted right in.but like rb says i had to machine the pass knuckle for crossover and i never did get a front shaft to work http://www.dakgroups.com/groups/attaches/DakFiles/444/View8.jpg

[mark]

forgot,
that axle was from a 3/4 ton 72 dodge power wagon.

[L. Vargas]

So if I go spring over, I wont be able to use a front driveline? Is it the severe angle?

Hmmmmm

[L. Vargas]

Wow, did you come up with that Riverbeast. What does a kit like that go for $. Thanks

[River Beast]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by L. Vargas:
Wow, did you come up with that Riverbeast. What does a kit like that go for $. Thanks<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

THis kit ,per say, is veryy common to Chevys and fords.

I got a pre-76 GM flattop knuckle that was machined, drilled and tapped....the new high steering arm... and the 3" BDS spacer with all hardware included from www.partsmike.net (http://www.partsmike.net) Mike is a GREAT guy who is eager to please.... it all ran me $300 then I had to get the draglink fabbed.

[River Beast]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by L. Vargas:
So if I go spring over, I wont be able to use a front driveline? Is it the severe angle?

Hmmmmm<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Not necessarilly....depends on how high you go. With stock springs, the SOA will not probhit the use of a stock shaft. With lift (like Mark and I have) you get to drop SERIOUS money into a high angle CV driveshaft known as a "DROP STICK" or go without one til you figure something else out. I have seen drop sticks for up to $1000 so...not saying I would buy that one either... but they are out there.

[Jake_S]

L, if you want to use a chevy front axle you can, but you'll have to use a Dodge tcase, passenger drop. You can do this by getting a dodge tailshaft put into your 727, and the adapter for the tranny to tcase, and bolt up a drive shaft, and away you go!.
I know it sounds easy, but if yo need any encouragement, talk to Dennis, aka Scoutgrl, this is how he did his soa.
Jake_S

[L. Vargas]

cool, thanks on both. Man the money flows out faster than it goes into my pocket. So it should work (driveline) if I use the stock springs. Right?

Just need to get it lengthened, ok.

[Jake_S]

If you use the dodge tcase, 208 or 203, I believe they are shorter than the 229, so you should be able to use your stock front d-shaft as long as the yoke on the tcase is for the same ujoint, but the rear d-shaft will probably have to be lenghtened since the tcase is shorter, and you're going to be lifting the back to match the front.
Jake_S